The M1 Garand Build Thread

Claven2 said:
If your front ferule is repro, sometimes the legs have to be squeezed tight onto the ferrule wood. The repro stuff is fatter here than a real ferrule. It should not touch, but the clearance needed is small. LOTS of GI rifles do touch here, it's an accuracy mod to achieve clearance.
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Front ferrule pictured is not a repro. However the rear front handguard ferrule that pins into the barrel is a repro.
Front handguard is tight in both ferrules (it doesn't move)

I kind of prefer a ''tight'' front handguard, I don't want it to rattle. I'll bevel 30deg the gas cylinder and mod the tenon a bit tonight.
First test fire should be next week hopefully.
 
Hmmm, I didn't know that they made repro lower bands. I'd assume that these repros are cast for the sake of cheapness. That may well be the problem as an off-spec repro could cause the front handgd to cant to one side or the other. It would be interesting to see how a GI front handgd might work instead of the Boyds.

The rear handgd also has a relationship to accuracy and how the front handgd fits the lower band. A few things to watch for when fitting the rear handgd;

- make sure there is some clearance between the face of the receiver and back of the rear handgd-at least the thickness of a business card all around. In addition to improving accuracy, this clearance will also prevent the cracks that you often see at the rear of the handgd and will facilitate installing/removing the rear handgd without needing to remove the lower band
- check for interference of the op rod and relieve any areas of wood to metal contact. GI handgds had a bevel cut on the lower right corner to make sure there was no interference with the op rod
- remove enough wood on the inner surface over the chamber area to make sure that the handgd isn't making contact here. The Boyds rear handgds are pretty thick here and need to be thinned down
- make sure that the tenon of the rear handgd isn't so long that it pushes the tenon of the front handgd forward from the lower band. This can drive the front handgd ferrule into hard contact with the rear of the gas cylinder
- check for hard contact between the bottom edges of the rear handgd and the top of the stock. Remove enough wood from the bottom of the rear handgd, NOT THE TOP OF THE STOCK, to get some clearance here

The Boyds rear handgds are a small piece of wood, but usually require quite a bit of time to get them to fit right.
 
Just picked up my barrel from the post office from Constantine. I bought it on Dec 28th and it arrived in 16 days. It's a shame some people are having issues with shipping as I ordered my bolt from him as well and had no issues.
 
Hi guys...

Do you know where/who can rebuilt a elevating pinion of a m1 garand rear sight. I ordered 2 ''complete'' rear sight from marstar... But both dont have the 2 washers (1 spring and 1 normal ring) of the elevation pinion.....

I email them.. And they just told me me to resend them....... Not interested, i need 2 sights so i prefer to keep it and try to fix the probkem !

I dont know where to find this (washers) and how to fix it, someone can help me with that ??
 
why would you not have Marstar supply replacements? assembly/disassembly of rear sights requires special tools and the parts aren't readily available.
 
They are sold out and dont expect any parts for m1 garand....

That p´ss me off.... Sold like complet... But they was not! Its a really PITA to find this 2 little parts.... Its look like i'm alone with this problem !
 
I've never seen the components of a second pattern Garand elevation knob for sale, except for the actual pinion part. The second pattern elevation knob assemblies need special tools for assembly/dis-assembly which was normally done at depot level to replace the knobs due to the `tit` which bears against the receiver serrations becoming excessively worn and unserviceable. You would be best to return the parts for a refund and seek another source.

The earlier pattern lock-bar rear sight assemblies can be dis-assembled to replace the components. These use a totally different pinion and windage knob and require the use of a detent, spring and lock-bar which seat inside the windage knob.
 
I *think* the elevation sight parts for a Springfield M1A can be used on a GI elevation pinion and they come apart with snap-ring pliers, but they are calibrated for 7.62 NATO, not .30-06 and don't look GI when re-assembled. Post-war pattern (most common) windage assemblies do not disassemble, but as mentioned, wartime lock bar windage sights do - IF you can find replacement parts.
 
Wow, GunBroker.com has a stripped Beretta reveiver at $431 US right now (with $25 shipping) after 5 bids. Making that price tag of only $49.99 seem even more amazing!
 
Italian receivers are actually rare collector parts in the USA. Most of them went to Canada, while in the US, they got most of the SA and WRA receivers from the Danish shipments. A few Italians snuck in there, much like a few USGI receivers snuck in here.
 
Just noticed this on my receiver, a ridge across the valley right at the end of the barrel threads. Is this normal? Total Garand newb here. Thanks!

IMG_0687.jpg
 
Claven2 said:
Italian receivers are actually rare collector parts in the USA. Most of them went to Canada, while in the US, they got most of the SA and WRA receivers from the Danish shipments. A few Italians snuck in there, much like a few USGI receivers snuck in here.
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After I priced out the build at the most economical means I could find and seing the hassles guys here are having , decided mine's gonna be an interesting keepsake in my collection. ;) Gonna be interesting to see what these things sell for in the future, given the lack of experience in assembly, some of the guys here are showing.

Grizz
 
The bur in the above photo of the receiver thread should not be an issue. I think it's far enough back that the barrel threads won't get there.
 
Grizzly Adams said:
After I priced out the build at the most economical means I could find and seing the hassles guys here are having , decided mine's gonna be an interesting keepsake in my collection. ;) Gonna be interesting to see what these things sell for in the future, given the lack of experience in assembly, some of the guys here are showing.

Grizz
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I think I mentioned that elsewhere. Not all Garand assemblers are created equal. I know mine is built perfectly, and a few others here I would trust no sweat. Others… not so much if I was looking to buy it on the EE.

I'll post pics of mine next week when I get the metal back from parkerizing at Vulcan. Mine is going to look obvious due to the faked barrel markings I used ;) I left the Criterion marks below the woodline as well though.
 
Well, my Marstar order came in. All the parts to complete the trigger group, and the follower system.

Now all I need is a rear sight, clip latch spring, op rod spring, hammer spring, and a complete stock with metals.

...and my gun back from the smith who's timing/headspacing it

Other than that it's done! Sort of.
 
Grizzly Adams said:
After I priced out the build at the most economical means I could find and seing the hassles guys here are having , decided mine's gonna be an interesting keepsake in my collection. ;) Gonna be interesting to see what these things sell for in the future, given the lack of experience in assembly, some of the guys here are showing.

Grizz
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hassles are part of the fun !
 
Grizzly Adams said:
After I priced out the build at the most economical means I could find and seing the hassles guys here are having , decided mine's gonna be an interesting keepsake in my collection. ;) Gonna be interesting to see what these things sell for in the future, given the lack of experience in assembly, some of the guys here are showing.

Grizz
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To be honest I see very few hassles, and nothing very serious, parts are not hard to find; you just have to look. There are a handful of people building posting on this thread, but many more building without problems. I have Acquired all of my parts (mostly PB) (the last batch on route) for about $1000. I still have the re-park and some tools to purchase so final bill should be around $1400. I am quite sure i will build a few more so the tools will get used again. I think people bought receivers thinking they were going to build a $500 Garand lol
You can keep your $50 paper weight, the rest of us are gonna build Garands :)
 
If you end up at under $1400 after tools, you are doing much better then most. If you are doing it cheaper that this price, likely you are using tired old Korean e-bay wood and a non-new barrel in most cases.

IMHO, this is a $1500+ project for most folks, probably NOT including tools.
 
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