The M1 Garand Build Thread

I have found several sources for op rods in the states. But would have to use an export/import company to get them too me. I have also found some in Italy, if the first shipment comes in okay from Italy (stock & Gas Cylinders), then next month I will order the op rods.

I currently do not have access to the CGN EE, I just applied today. Are there BM59 bolts listed on the EE? BM59 bolts from what I have read are slightly different from M1 Garand Bolts, they had some metal removed on the underside. Sarco has BM59 stripped bolts listed on their website, I have a couple on order, I will bug them again tomorrow to see where my order is at. If not I will have to order from one of the companies that does not ship to Canada & go through an export/import company.

Claven2 said:
I'd have thought operating rods for the BM59 would be tougher. Bolts are easy, you are just not ordering from the right place. Even the CGN EE has inexpensive bolts available.
Click to expand...
 
can14 said:
The BM59 break will require some major fitting as it is not a m1garand transfer part . The Americans have made conversion parts to make some of the BM 59 accessories work on the M1 rifle. Other BM59 parts can be used. But, with Border Services looking at parts, BM59 parts could be an issue, because it is an FA.
Click to expand...

I realize the BM59 para brake will require some major work, just like everything else on this conversion. I have read everything I can find on the web about doing a BM59 conversion, there are some excellent threads on other forums. I'm going all in on this one, & know I will be paying a lot to a gunsmith to do all the work. So far I haven't had any issues with the CBSA & technically I shouldn't (I know they have caused issues for others). I'm just making a Semi-Auto Mag-Fed M1 Garand in .308 that uses a BM59 stock & a few other BM59 pieces:D
 
Some good progress being made. I have all PB marked parts so far, just need a Rear Sight Assembly and Bolt and I'll be done. Other parts include a Danish VAR 1957 Barrel and a Boyd's Stock Set.

Current price tag is at: $1175 and will prob be close to $1475 when the other two parts are bought for an all PB marked M1 Garand (minus barrel and stock).

I plan on going to Vulcan Gun Refinishing to get a fresh park and have the barrel installed and head-spaced. Prices from Vulcan are $250 for a whole rifle park and $100 for barrel/head-space. He also offers Boyd's stocks at $250 (which is why I bought a Boyd's).

So hopefully all said and done for the rifle will be under $1900.

Have some nice goodies/accessories to go along with it. PB marked Combo tool, 12 enblock clips and a very nice FKF marked Danish Sling. About $120 worth of goodies.

I'll try to get some pics up.
 
Wowser, it adds up pretty quickly. It's kind of like making rock soup. Start with the rock ($49.95 receiver) then add the meat, spices, veggies, then some nice bread and wine on the side and away you go. Anyway, it's all fun. Like love, you can't put a price on it.:rockOn:
 
The para brake is the proper size if you're using a gas cylinder with bm spacing.

Converting it to Garand duty is tougher, involves milling the plug hole closer to the bore and this brake requires the barrel to protrude from the gas cylinder lock a longer distance and slightly wider diameter than Garand.

I wouldn't use the bm bolt in a Garand, but for a mag fed Garand (m-14 or bm), it's the way to go.
R

mileageman said:
I realize the BM59 para brake will require some major work, just like everything else on this conversion. I have read everything I can find on the web about doing a BM59 conversion, there are some excellent threads on other forums. I'm going all in on this one, & know I will be paying a lot to a gunsmith to do all the work. So far I haven't had any issues with the CBSA & technically I shouldn't (I know they have caused issues for others). I'm just making a Semi-Auto Mag-Fed M1 Garand in .308 that uses a BM59 stock & a few other BM59 pieces:D
Click to expand...
 
parkerizing at home

I would like to parkerize my parts at home, and i am looking for some input on which parkerizing solutions may be best for me. I have a couple of bottles of Radocy I had purchased for M14 parts, but had never used. I was wondering id anyone had any experience with this stuff, it calls for parts to be etched with muratic acid as opposed to sand blasting? I am looking for a nice dark / black finish, i would like to hear from home parkerizing what people are using and the results they are getting. Also curious about the rigs being used for the sandblasting.

thanks for your input
 
josey wales said:
I would like to parkerize my parts at home, and i am looking for some input on which parkerizing solutions may be best for me. I have a couple of bottles of Radocy I had purchased for M14 parts, but had never used. I was wondering id anyone had any experience with this stuff, it calls for parts to be etched with muratic acid as opposed to sand blasting? I am looking for a nice dark / black finish, i would like to hear from home parkerizing what people are using and the results they are getting. Also curious about the rigs being used for the sandblasting.

thanks for your input
Click to expand...

I am using a big 100L plastic square bucket with a closing top to blast small parts. I've sealed it and installed a window in it.

For big parts, I just waste sand everywhere. You can buy a cheap blasting gun for like 50$ and some sand for 10$. BUT you'll also need a huge compressor.
 
The Radocy Parkerizing is zinc based which yields a grey color. A manganese based Parkerizing solution will produce a black color. I use the manganese based Shooters Solutions parkerizing which I bring in from the US. I don't know what is available from Cdn vendors these days.

Parkerizing isn't that complicated, but metal degreasing/de-oiling and surface preparation are key to good results. I do all of my Parkerizing, other than barrels and operating rods, in a large ceramic crock pot which keeps the solution at the proper temp and is economical with the solution (little loss to evaporation). You need to use a non-reactive vessel like stainless steel or ceramic.
Basically you follow these steps per the vendors instructions:
1. Mix the solution with the proper ratio of distilled water and heat to proper temp in a covered vessel. The solution is hazardous, so I do my Parkerizing outside with good ventilation and during the summer when it is easier to keep the solution up to proper temp.
2. Degrease parts thoroughly. Oil and grease contamination will bugger the results. I use mineral spirits for a first treatment followed by lacquer thinner. Wear rubber gloves to handle parts at all times after degreasing to avoid oil contamination from fingerprints.
3. Sand/bead blast all parts to remove any scale and crud and to activate the surface of the steel. Minimize the time between blasting and immersion in the park solution to avoid any oxidation of the freshly activated steel surface. A portable compressor and vacuum type blasting gun work well. I use 60PSI outlet pressure. Don't use overly coarse blasting agent or blast for too long or you will erode markings and may alter dimensions in key areas. For example, I do minimal blasting on the interior of a receiver, the face of the receiver and the threads where the barrel screws in.
4. Monitor the temp of the solution with a candy thermometer and only immerse parts when the temp is correct. Handle parts with stainless steel tongs (degreased) to put them in and remove from solution.
5. Leave parts in solution per manufacturers instructions or until they stop fizzing.
6. Remove parts from solution with tongs and put them into a tub of running water to rinse. Don't let the parts dry in the air before putting into and removing from water rinse. Remove parts from water with rubber gloves.
7. After removing from water, spray or brush parts with a stopping agent (WD40 works) to stop the chemical process. Wipe parts with a rag.
8. Next coat the parts with oil ( I use 3 in 1) and you are done. I generally keep the parts wet with oil for 3 days while they cure and before I install them in a gun.

After the solution cools you can filter it thru a paint filter and store in clean windshield washer anti-freeze containers to use again.
 
Beretta makes a five round magazine for the BM59. I was considering the M1 built with BM59 barrel/op rod etc. The M1 would have eight rounds compared to five. The American's have done a lot of work on combining BM 59/M1 rifle parts into working rifles. I went to LA in the early 1970's and spent the day at a company that had a warehouse of BM 59/M1 rifle parts that they were making into rifles for export only. All were semi-auto based on Bm59 type or M1 type rifles with BM 59 barrels and op rods.
 
If anyone is considering a bm modified op rod and that barrel format using the Garand enbloc system, the hook on the op rod that engages the catch is usually miiled off, so the bolt will not stay open after last shot.
R
 
My rifle is now all done (missing front sight only) however the gas cylinder is rubbing on one side of the front handguard front ferrule when I install it (hope that make senses).

Before doing anything I would like to know what would you do with this ? Claven ? :p
 
Check to see that the lower band centered on the barrel. Could also be that the tongue at the rear of the handgd is distorted where it fits into the lower band causing the handgd to sit off center in the lower band. If so, you can relieve a bit of the wood on one side of the tongue. A bit of rotational movement in the front handgd is OK. You could also file a bevel on both sides of the ledge of the gas cyl where it sits inside the handgd ferrule as was often done as part of match modifications. There should be some perceptible fore and aft play in the front handgd when the gas cyl is fitted and the lock is installed into final position. If the rear of the gas cyl is jammed tight up against the ferrule of the upper handgd this will lead to inaccuracy and possible cracking of the front handgd as there is no flexibility for the barrel to heat up when fired.

The barrel is indexed to top dead center and there is no binding of the op rod on either side of the handgd liner or gas cyl, right?
 
purple said:
Check to see that the lower band centered on the barrel. Could also be that the tongue at the rear of the handgd is distorted where it fits into the lower band causing the handgd to sit off center in the lower band. If so, you can relieve a bit of the wood on one side of the tongue. A bit of rotational movement in the front handgd is OK. You could also file a bevel on both sides of the ledge of the gas cyl where it sits inside the handgd ferrule as was often done as part of match modifications. There should be some perceptible fore and aft play in the front handgd when the gas cyl is fitted and the lock is installed into final position. If the rear of the gas cyl is jammed tight up against the ferrule of the upper handgd this will lead to inaccuracy and possible cracking of the front handgd as there is no flexibility for the barrel to heat up when fired.

The barrel is indexed to top dead center and there is no binding of the op rod on either side of the handgd liner or gas cyl, right?
Click to expand...

Yes, everything is indexed fine. Anyway the gas cylinder and the handguard will spin at the same time.

I will bevel the gas cylinder a bit and I'll modify the wood trunion a tiny bit. I don't need much, maybe 1/16in at worst.

Doesn't pass the tilt test (it does if I shake it a little), but I know it's coming from underside of the barrel.

ecfs.jpg
 
If the op rod doesn't pass the tilt test is it also binding on either side of the lower band? Is the lower band tight on the barrel? If the lower band is tight on the barrel, but slightly off center, you can tap it with a wooden block and hammer to shift it a bit to one side or another.
 
Is it the op rod that is rubbing on the handguard? I assume so. This is actually a common issue with Boyds wood. For one thing, the channel might be a hair too narrow. Also, if you barrel indexing is out even a little, this issue can happen. Your barrel, receiver and the handguard ferrule that is pinned to the barrel all have to be aligned to pass the tilt test. Finally, make sure your op rod is not binding inside the buttstock as this can force it over and cause issues up at the handguard.
 
Claven2 said:
Is it the op rod that is rubbing on the handguard? I assume so. This is actually a common issue with Boyds wood. For one thing, the channel might be a hair too narrow. Also, if you barrel indexing is out even a little, this issue can happen. Your barrel, receiver and the handguard ferrule that is pinned to the barrel all have to be aligned to pass the tilt test. Finally, make sure your op rod is not binding inside the buttstock as this can force it over and cause issues up at the handguard.
Click to expand...

Gas cylinder is hard to push in the channel of the front ferrule. Op Rod is fine there (slide freely inside the gas cylinder)

Gas cylinder is touching the ferrule (see picture)
55vs.jpg
 
There are 3 options to get some clearance between the handgd ferrule and the gas cylinder. First, I'd check to see if the op rod is centered inside the front handgd liner.
1.Try rotating the lower band a bit in the direction away from where the gas cyl is making contact with the handgd ferrule. To do this remove the front handgd and tap the inside "leg" of the lower band to move it in the direction that would establish some clearance. Use a wooden block on the 'leg" and tap the block with a hammer. Before doing this, cycle the op rod a few times and observe if it is centered in the lower band. You don't want to rotate the lower band to the extent that the op rod will come in contact with one side or the other of the lower band.

2. If the front handgd fits inside the lower band so tightly that there is no rotational movement, you could relieve a bit of wood from the tenon at the rear of the handgd to loosen it up a bit. The Boyds handgds aren't totally consistent, so it is possible that the tenon that fits inside the lower band was profiled a bit off center which would seat the tenon in the lower band so that it is canted to one side. I've seen a similar problem on a couple of new GI handgds which made it through quality control all the same.

3. You can file a 30 deg bevel on both sides of the rear projection of the gas cylinder which will establish some metal to metal clearance without affecting functionality.
 
If your front ferule is repro, sometimes the legs have to be squeezed tight onto the ferrule wood. The repro stuff is fatter here than a real ferrule. It should not touch, but the clearance needed is small. LOTS of GI rifles do touch here, it's an accuracy mod to achieve clearance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom