It's a mix n' match parts rifle. No originals will be harmed.
I'd say more than 50% of the finish is gone.
Anyone parked their own?
So you can see what I'm working with:
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The M1 Garand Build Thread
- Thread starter Don Kael
- Start date
It's a mix n' match parts rifle. No originals will be harmed.
I'd say more than 50% of the finish is gone.
Anyone parked their own?
So you can see what I'm working with:
The stock came from Dean's Gun Restorations. Tyler should send his receiver to Arma Coat in Thornhilde, Alberta.
I spoke to Barret yesterday and he parkerizes ever second day. He told me that he charges 60 bucks to parkerize a Garand receiver.
I spoke to Barret yesterday and he parkerizes ever second day. He told me that he charges 60 bucks to parkerize a Garand receiver.
I'm waiting for the dust to settle.
Should be easier and cheaper to come up with parts after the hype fades.Grizz
I'm waiting for the dust to settle.
Grizz
Current build cost sits at $1100 for everything. That is IF I can import a barrel. I don't know if I can so it may run an extra $250 to source a .308 barrel nationally once they become available. Why wait for the dust to settle? Grab a mask and jump on in!
I can't seem to find any information on this (my Google fu is lacking lately) but if I am to build my Garand in .308, what extra parts am I going to need besides the spacer block? Also, would the .308 be "plug and play" the stock, etc.?
Sorry for the noob question, I am very new to the inner workings of the M1 Garand.
Sorry for the noob question, I am very new to the inner workings of the M1 Garand.
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If it's a newly-manufactured .308 bbl (like Criterion), then the spacer block is pretty much it as far as different parts go. But if you have one of the shorter Italian bbls (they turned down .30/06 bbls from the receiver end to get the .308 dimensions when NATO switched over to the new cartridge), you'll need the shorter op rod, op rod spring and stock on top of the .308 spacer. En blocs remain the same.
Assuming that you are using a standard length Criterion .308 bbl, all other parts are common with the basic .30-06 Garand. The .308/7.62 spacer block doesn't affect basic functionality of the rifle. It acts as a mechanical interruption against trying to load a clip of longer .30-06 rds in a .308/7.62 Garand.
i recieved my gas cyclinder today what i am wondering is it seems to be a real tight fit and with out what i think will be using a mallet to seat it fully i cant even tighten up my gas cyclinder lock would this harm my barrel or is that what i must do.
Tight is good. When the gas cyl is tight on the barrel splineways it prevents any rotational movement of the gas cyl and front sight. A drive-on fit is OK. They will loosen a bit over time. Do not hammer directly on the gas cyl to install/remove it. Use a hardwood block on the front and rear end of the bayo lug and hit the block with a hammer to drive the gas cyl on/off.
When seating the gas cyl look to get the gas port in the bbl in the middle of the gas port 'window". A bit either way is OK as long as you can see the full gas port thru the "window". Ideally the lock should come up against the barrel shoulder in the 6-10AM position and then be backed off to insert the gas cyl screw. Generally you need to trial fit a number of locks to find one that fits best. Also, when it is all together there should be a bit of fore and aft play of the front handgd between the lower band and the rear of the gas cyl.
One overlooked thing is the stacking swivel. The screw should be tight with the swivel swung to the rear. This prevents the swivel from hammering on the gas cyl when fired thus setting up unwanted vibrations.
When seating the gas cyl look to get the gas port in the bbl in the middle of the gas port 'window". A bit either way is OK as long as you can see the full gas port thru the "window". Ideally the lock should come up against the barrel shoulder in the 6-10AM position and then be backed off to insert the gas cyl screw. Generally you need to trial fit a number of locks to find one that fits best. Also, when it is all together there should be a bit of fore and aft play of the front handgd between the lower band and the rear of the gas cyl.
One overlooked thing is the stacking swivel. The screw should be tight with the swivel swung to the rear. This prevents the swivel from hammering on the gas cyl when fired thus setting up unwanted vibrations.
TacticalTeacher
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Georgian Bay, ON
I advocate tight gas cylinders, too! I ain't a collector, but a match shooter so tighter front ends on the M1 Garand are my leanings! Keep on enjoying the Garand addiction!
Cheers,
Barney
Scotchline
Regular
- Location
- Rural Ontario
Tagged
Getting close, my last 3 parts should hopefully be here next week. A few more coats of BLO to go on the stock, going to attempt to install the barrel tonight. If all goes well should have a complete rifle next weekend.
Have a question, I have a repro butt plate, and it doesn't sit quite flush with the buttstock. Is it common to have to remove a bit of wood to have it sit properly?
Have a question, I have a repro butt plate, and it doesn't sit quite flush with the buttstock. Is it common to have to remove a bit of wood to have it sit properly?
Quite often you need to inlet the stock a bit for a GI or repro buttplate to fit flush. You can coat the inside of the buttplate with grease or wife/GF's lipstick seat it and tap it with a piece of 4x4 to find the high spots. You sometimes need to remove some wood to get the rear sling swivel to seat properly. Don't drive a tight one in or you might split or crack the surrounding area of the stock. The buttplate should be fitted before doing any other work on the stock. This will prevent the butt end from chipping if it happens to fall or slip while being worked on.
