The M1 Garand Build Thread

Having searched I am finding little info on a special build I am doing.

I purchased a stock its an italian 7.62x51win beretta build. Doing so I have now made myself require some extra work ? I believe I will require a 1/2 short barrel & Op rod. How hard are they to come by? I saw marstar HAD some, is there anything else i need to do ? And did i just jack the price up ? Thanks!
 
If you have the shortened stock, you will need the 1/2 shorter barrel, oprod and rear handguard. Op rods can be modified (Columbus Machine,Ohio) Handguards are available from some France or Italian Ebay sites. Barrels were available a while back but are scarce these days. If you do not have a lot into the stock it may be beneficial to just put it away/sell and get the standard stock set.
 
FALover said:
If you have the shortened stock, you will need the 1/2 shorter barrel, oprod and rear handguard. Op rods can be modified (Columbus Machine,Ohio) Handguards are available from some France or Italian Ebay sites. Barrels were available a while back but are scarce these days. If you do not have a lot into the stock it may be beneficial to just put it away/sell and get the standard stock set.
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Sarco sells some stocks that have been converted back to the original configuration, you can identify them by the 1/2 " piece of wood grafted on to the front. New quality and very reasonable price as well.

Grizz
 
Grizzly Adams said:
Sarco sells some stocks that have been converted back to the original configuration, you can identify them by the 1/2 " piece of wood grafted on to the front. New quality and very reasonable price as well.

Grizz
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These stocks were made to MILSPEC for the Italian military and fit much better than the Boyds stocks where the fit is variable. The half-inch addition on the front is evident, but not offensive on a non - collector grade rifle.
 
Deciding to go ahead with the build.

I have the front handgaurd aswell, all i need is the barrel & Op-rod. I believe I have somthing lined up so hopefully that will pan out!!


EDIT:

What about the enbloc clips ? Can I use the regular ones or do I need specific ones for 7.62x51NATO, I've seen a reduction to stop .30-06 from being loaded but have not seen .308 clips
 
purple said:
These stocks were made to MILSPEC for the Italian military and fit much better than the Boyds stocks where the fit is variable. The half-inch addition on the front is evident, but not offensive on a non - collector grade rifle.
Click to expand...

I found a decent tiger stripe stock on Ebay recently. There is a seller selling a few right now. Just in case anyone is interested.

-Shawn
 
I thought I would share my latest build. It is a Beretta receiver with an excellent VAR barrel. It is on a New/Old Italian stock with the added piece to the forend. It also has MT marked in the rear. Should make a very nice shooter.

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Folks,

I am a little late to this party. I am doing a build here and the front band between the gas tube and the front hand guard does not fit.





What am I doing wrong?

PM me if you have a solution.
 
Posted this in a thread of its own but figured Id drop it here too since this is the M1 build thread. : )
1943 Winchester receiver and all wra parts except the 1951 SA barrel.
-original M1D block, t37 and cheek pad.

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M1 Rear sight elevation screw problem

I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd give it a try. I am building a Garand, and was working on the rear sight. I got to the point of needing to loosen the screw in the elevation knob to zero it. I am unable to loosen the screw. I've tried penetrating oil (Liquid wrench) I've tried thermal shock, (heating it carefully with a torch and immersing it in cold water. I've tried heating the screw itself with a soldering iron in case there is something on the threads that would come loose. All attempts have failed. The whole assembly is "new old stock" so I believe it has not every been used. I am out of ideas. Does anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks
 
Penetrating oil is useful on both the external and internal face of the elevation pinion. Try removing the elevation pinion and holding it in padded slip joint pliers (a strip of leather works well to prevent marring the finish) while turning out the center screw with a properly fitting screwdriver.
 
Thanks! I have been to their site and have found it quite helpful for the build in certain places. Unfortunately it didn't help for this particular problem. It's the small screw in the side of the elevation knob that enables the drum to "slip" and set to zero. I've taken the pinion out and put in a padded vise and even bent a hollow ground screwdriver tip trying to loosen it.
 
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