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The M1 Garand Build Thread
- Thread starter Don Kael
- Start date
I assembled the upper section of the rifle this morning. As far as I can go until I get a new stock.
The receiver is interesting because it is missing the made in Italy and beretta stampings. Receiver is of lower serial number 11**.
The receiver is interesting because it is missing the made in Italy and beretta stampings. Receiver is of lower serial number 11**.
Here's a couple of new ones for people to think about. I recently assembled a Tipo2 7.62 Garand on a Beretta receiver and found that I was having 2 problems with it. The first one was that the clip wouldn't fully seat to the point where the clip latch would engage it. After ruling out all of the usual faults I that the follower was making contact with the bottom plate of the trigger housing to the extent that it would not depress far enough to allow the clip to go all of the way down. The problem was that the stock was allowing the trigger housing to seat too deeply. It is a NOS Italian made Tipo2 stock. The fix was to glue a couple of wooden shims onto the bearing surfaces for the trigger housing at the rear on either side of the trigger cutout. I've played with a lot of Garands and never encountered this problem before.
The other problem was that the action was short stroking intermittently. After ruling out the usual gas supply problems I proceeded to shorten the op rod spring incrementally to 19 inches to the point where the action was cycling properly. This is an Italian Tipo2 Garand with a 23.5 inch barrel as opposed to the normal 24 inch .30-06 barrel, so a shorter op rod spring was necessary. I started with one of the extra long commercial op rod springs and shortened it as necessary to work.
The other problem was that the action was short stroking intermittently. After ruling out the usual gas supply problems I proceeded to shorten the op rod spring incrementally to 19 inches to the point where the action was cycling properly. This is an Italian Tipo2 Garand with a 23.5 inch barrel as opposed to the normal 24 inch .30-06 barrel, so a shorter op rod spring was necessary. I started with one of the extra long commercial op rod springs and shortened it as necessary to work.
Interesting report purple.
My /06 garand has also short stroked occasionally with a military op rod spring and medium power handloads (47 BLC-2/165gr Horn IL). Also, this one is noticable stiffer to pull bolt back, than any of my friends M1's are.
So its shorten the spring one coil at a time to rectify?.
My /06 garand has also short stroked occasionally with a military op rod spring and medium power handloads (47 BLC-2/165gr Horn IL). Also, this one is noticable stiffer to pull bolt back, than any of my friends M1's are.
So its shorten the spring one coil at a time to rectify?.
Min/max length of the op rod spring is 19.75 to 20.25 inches. The spring should be kept within these parameters. Some of the commercial op rod springs are longer than this and will cause or contribute to short stroking. The spring should be free of excessive kinks and should not be worn flat. Its also a good idea to apply some rifle grease to the spring. There are a number of other causes for short stroking which should be ruled out incl the following;
- undersize gas piston on op rod
- excessively worn interior of gas cylinder
- build up of carbon inside gas cyl
- fouled gas port in barrel
- cracked/leaky gas plug or gas plug valve fouled so that it doesn't fully close
- op rod binding (do the tilt test)
- inadequate grease on specified lube points
All your words bear repeating purple . Thanks.
I'll start with spring length specs., and go from there.
Again, thanks.
Just found this on ebay. If it were not for the shipping fees (it looks like it weighs a few hundred pounds) I would be bidding on it!http://www.ebay.com/itm/M1-Garand-B...940275?hash=item33ad5dd6b3:g:Ua8AAOSwv-NWV2mV
This ad is on the CMP forums. Makes the Polish tool look like a true bargain. $3000. US and then add shipping!
http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=178838
Progression of .....
... the start of next years projects. Three more Beretta's on the line. Bottom has been degreased, middle one finished sandblasting and the top one is fresh out of it's oil bath after a soak in the parkerizing soup. A buffing with 0000 steel wool and it is next in line!
... the start of next years projects. Three more Beretta's on the line. Bottom has been degreased, middle one finished sandblasting and the top one is fresh out of it's oil bath after a soak in the parkerizing soup. A buffing with 0000 steel wool and it is next in line!
The Marstar site has the lower band, mistakenly labelled as a rear handguard ferrule, for sale @ $11.00. Use a standard 1/8" diameter x 1/2" roll pin to secure the lower band. The lower band needs to fit tightly for accuracy. Most used ones are a loose fit. There are a number of ways of tightening them up.
Well false joy, according to Marstar diagram I need part GAR-036 (rear ferrule front) which seems to be the lower band and they're out of stock... How come such a small piece of metal is so hard to get? And the Americans don't help as soon as it's labeled as a gun part, it's illegal to sell to us directly. They should make the same part but label them for toys or anything else it would pass.
Starting to feel I should get a commission from Sarco.
Long as it's not an ITAR listed part no problem. You'll have to got to their international order desk, simple process.http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/garand.aspx
You need to recheck the Marstar site. The part you need is illustrated as GAR037 Handguard ferrule, rear, but the illustration shows a lower band. They show this part as being in stock. This is different from the front handguard ferrule.
