The new Tikka T1X Rimfire
- Thread starter Arseno
- Start date
I had about an hour between Christmas commitments to myself, and spent it monkeying around with the T1X. There are a couple of observations that might be of interest to prospective buyers.
Out of the box, I see none of the poor quality concerns mentioned in one of the above posts, I believe from a European owner. Fit and finish are good, trigger is crisp and clean although a bit heavier than I would prefer, and bolt movement is reasonably smooth although not outstanding. There will be a massive slaughter of Animal Planet stars over the next few days, dry-firing the T1X at the TV late at night, which should smooth out bolt and trigger noticeably.
Mounting a scope could easily be done with any two-piece set of bases meant for the T3, but the narrow shelf between the rimfire grooves on the T1X means that the bases will overhang by an unsightly amount on both sides. I initially mounted a pair of Talley lightweight one-piece units, took one look, and removed them for that reason. I experimented with a Weaver base (sorry, don't remember the number designation) which slides over the grooves from the end and is then held in place by set-screws or grub screws in the top which are tightened and bear down against the receiver surface, thus tensioning the base upwards against the bottom of the dovetails. This thing might work, but it is just such a Mickey Mouse arrangement, with such a minute amount of male-to-female dovetail contact, that I threw it back into the goodie box.
The ejection/access port in the T1X receiver is cut further up over the top than that in my T3, and this feature makes me question whether any type of rail is the best solution. Unless a rail is specifically designed for this gun, to match the receiver cut-out, it will never look right and might even interfere with ejection; won't know for sure without shooting. Furthermore, Tikka missed the boat on one very simple feature: They have drilled the receiver top with two pairs of mounting holes, and each pair of holes matches the hole-pair spacing on a T3, allowing the use of T3 2-piece bases. That's good...but why on earth did they not place the front pair of holes in such a location as to allow the front hole (of the front pair of holes) to align with the rear hole (of the front pair of holes) on a T3 rail? This would allow these rails to be mounted using 3 screws, more than sufficient for this use...but nooooo! The holes are misaligned by a small fraction of an inch, forcing owners to either purchase a specific rail for the T1X or to drill one or two extra holes into an existing T3 rail. Stuff like this drives me nuts!
I eventually ended up mounting a scope using a set of fairly beefy airgun rings which clamp directly to the T1X receiver grooves. They are strong, they look much sleeker than any rail set-up, and there is sufficient latitude on the grooves to place the rings correctly to allow for virtually any standard scope with any eye relief. Unless you are caught up with the mania for Pic rails and massively overbuilt tactical rings, this is the best solution on many rimfires, and IMHO definitely the best for this particular rifle. Bear in mind that there are rings for 3/8-inch dovetails as well as other for Euro metric grooves like the T1X has, so it's important to check the specific ring in question for fit before committing to it. This little detail is one of the reasons why it's nice to have a ridiculous accumulation of bits'n'pieces of mounting gear at hand.
Stock fitment also has a couple of warts to address. Tikka says that any T3 stock will fit and interchange with the T1X...but they are referring to their own stocks. I have a Bell & Carlson stock on a T3, which cannot be utilized with the rimfire rifle. The aluminum bedding block fits the centerfire receiver verrrry snugly, and the magazine box of the T1X simply will not fit into that gap. The T3 barreled action will drop into the T1X stock without any problems, but this requires the removal of a roughly-3-inch-long spacer that fits into the rear part of the barrel channel on the T1X stock and is held in place by one screw. I believe this functions merely to cosmetically fill in the large gap that is normally filled by the chamber portion of a centerfire barrel, but not sure. There is also an exterior screw in the same spot which mounts from the bottom of the stock. I'm wondering if it is designed to allow for varying pressure to be applied to the barrel for tuning purposes? Just didn't have time to play with it yet.
I don't have a standard T3 stock to compare with the T1X stock, so can't say whether or not they are identical in stock fill or reinforcement. Also, I looked at the set screws that appear to allow for barrel interchange, but didn't open that can of worms yet. My experience with the B&C leads me to caution buyers about getting aftermarket T3 stocks for their T1X's; just because Tikka stocks for the two rifles can be used interchangeably does NOT mean that aftermarket stocks will work the same way. Boyd's, for example, might have been erring on the side of caution when they said "NO" to the question...or maybe their stocks are cut to fit as snugly as the B&C and thus simply will not fit. Buyer beware.
More to come after I shoot! Enjoy waiting for your pre-orders...
Out of the box, I see none of the poor quality concerns mentioned in one of the above posts, I believe from a European owner. Fit and finish are good, trigger is crisp and clean although a bit heavier than I would prefer, and bolt movement is reasonably smooth although not outstanding. There will be a massive slaughter of Animal Planet stars over the next few days, dry-firing the T1X at the TV late at night, which should smooth out bolt and trigger noticeably.
Mounting a scope could easily be done with any two-piece set of bases meant for the T3, but the narrow shelf between the rimfire grooves on the T1X means that the bases will overhang by an unsightly amount on both sides. I initially mounted a pair of Talley lightweight one-piece units, took one look, and removed them for that reason. I experimented with a Weaver base (sorry, don't remember the number designation) which slides over the grooves from the end and is then held in place by set-screws or grub screws in the top which are tightened and bear down against the receiver surface, thus tensioning the base upwards against the bottom of the dovetails. This thing might work, but it is just such a Mickey Mouse arrangement, with such a minute amount of male-to-female dovetail contact, that I threw it back into the goodie box.
The ejection/access port in the T1X receiver is cut further up over the top than that in my T3, and this feature makes me question whether any type of rail is the best solution. Unless a rail is specifically designed for this gun, to match the receiver cut-out, it will never look right and might even interfere with ejection; won't know for sure without shooting. Furthermore, Tikka missed the boat on one very simple feature: They have drilled the receiver top with two pairs of mounting holes, and each pair of holes matches the hole-pair spacing on a T3, allowing the use of T3 2-piece bases. That's good...but why on earth did they not place the front pair of holes in such a location as to allow the front hole (of the front pair of holes) to align with the rear hole (of the front pair of holes) on a T3 rail? This would allow these rails to be mounted using 3 screws, more than sufficient for this use...but nooooo! The holes are misaligned by a small fraction of an inch, forcing owners to either purchase a specific rail for the T1X or to drill one or two extra holes into an existing T3 rail. Stuff like this drives me nuts!
I eventually ended up mounting a scope using a set of fairly beefy airgun rings which clamp directly to the T1X receiver grooves. They are strong, they look much sleeker than any rail set-up, and there is sufficient latitude on the grooves to place the rings correctly to allow for virtually any standard scope with any eye relief. Unless you are caught up with the mania for Pic rails and massively overbuilt tactical rings, this is the best solution on many rimfires, and IMHO definitely the best for this particular rifle. Bear in mind that there are rings for 3/8-inch dovetails as well as other for Euro metric grooves like the T1X has, so it's important to check the specific ring in question for fit before committing to it. This little detail is one of the reasons why it's nice to have a ridiculous accumulation of bits'n'pieces of mounting gear at hand.
Stock fitment also has a couple of warts to address. Tikka says that any T3 stock will fit and interchange with the T1X...but they are referring to their own stocks. I have a Bell & Carlson stock on a T3, which cannot be utilized with the rimfire rifle. The aluminum bedding block fits the centerfire receiver verrrry snugly, and the magazine box of the T1X simply will not fit into that gap. The T3 barreled action will drop into the T1X stock without any problems, but this requires the removal of a roughly-3-inch-long spacer that fits into the rear part of the barrel channel on the T1X stock and is held in place by one screw. I believe this functions merely to cosmetically fill in the large gap that is normally filled by the chamber portion of a centerfire barrel, but not sure. There is also an exterior screw in the same spot which mounts from the bottom of the stock. I'm wondering if it is designed to allow for varying pressure to be applied to the barrel for tuning purposes? Just didn't have time to play with it yet.
I don't have a standard T3 stock to compare with the T1X stock, so can't say whether or not they are identical in stock fill or reinforcement. Also, I looked at the set screws that appear to allow for barrel interchange, but didn't open that can of worms yet. My experience with the B&C leads me to caution buyers about getting aftermarket T3 stocks for their T1X's; just because Tikka stocks for the two rifles can be used interchangeably does NOT mean that aftermarket stocks will work the same way. Boyd's, for example, might have been erring on the side of caution when they said "NO" to the question...or maybe their stocks are cut to fit as snugly as the B&C and thus simply will not fit. Buyer beware.
More to come after I shoot! Enjoy waiting for your pre-orders...
Great report, jjohnwm. You're right about the effectiveness of dovetail rings and that T1X owners should be sure to use 11mm rings.
The trigger pull should be easily reduced by changing the spring. The trigger is the same as that found on Tikka T3 and T3X, Sako Finnfire II, and Sako Quad rifles (and perhaps on other Sakos).
The trigger pull should be easily reduced by changing the spring. The trigger is the same as that found on Tikka T3 and T3X, Sako Finnfire II, and Sako Quad rifles (and perhaps on other Sakos).
You have to go to Europe or Australia for a rail(grub screw) . YoDave sells a spring kit. Some tinkerers have used an EGW rail for the CZ 11mm dovetail, the clamp style rail as a advoc mount. I dropped my T1 into a varmint T3 stock,”Grand Canyon “ under the barrel and some file work needed to fit the trigger guard piece. They call that barrel support piece a “shoehorn” on the rimfire site in the states(see thread there)
No, you don't. You can go to Cabela's or any other shop that stocks an assortment of Weaver bases and find one there for about ten bucks. Mind you, if you do you may try it out, remove it, throw it into your junk drawer and try it again and again on gun after gun, over and over for years, never finding the problem for that particular solution. It's worth buying one as an object...or maybe abject...lesson in how crappy some merchandise is.
I've had that mount in the past. Putting that ugly heavy thing on a sleek lightweight little sporter like this would make about as much sense as attaching a fifth wheel in the hatchback of a Honda Civic. Maybe it would work...sort of...but why???
Thanks, I've got to check what they have to say. If the barrel really is interchangeable, a heavier one would sit nicely in that stock. Now that I have given up on the B&C stock, I may get a set of Tikka's snap-on stock goodies (pistol grip and fore-end grip) and see how they feel on this gun; sort of a poor man's varmint stock.
I've seen pictures of the T1X in the M40 bell and carlson stock, so something is amiss, my dreams are to utilize mine now that hunting season has almost wrapped up around here, I'll be investigating this one in person rather then taking the internet as gospel.......tracking number on mine is showing that tomorrow has some promise to it
Thinking another set of FX no limits scope rings are due......no base required and up to 90 MOA adjustment in the rings
Thinking another set of FX no limits scope rings are due......no base required and up to 90 MOA adjustment in the rings
I keep coming back to this site anticipating that some one has shot some proof with pictures of groups size.
Today I scrolled from page 75 back to 69 and proof is conspicuous by the evidence.
If there are some groups please help with directions.
Today I scrolled from page 75 back to 69 and proof is conspicuous by the evidence.
If there are some groups please help with directions.
I'm anxious to do at least a couple hours of shooting tomorrow, have a half dozen different types of ammo to try. The forecast calls for a temperature around negative 11C; the odds of my fooling around with my phone to snap pics of targets are pretty much zero.
I hope that there is a way to reasonably mount the T1X in the B&C stock, since I have a couple of them I could use. The magazine box, incorporating the magazine catch/release, would need to be dressed down considerably on both sides to fit in either of my stocks. The plastic on the sides of that box is not thick to begin with; thinning it to the extent necessary does not seem feasible. Hopefully someone can find a way to make this work and post it here.
I hope that there is a way to reasonably mount the T1X in the B&C stock, since I have a couple of them I could use. The magazine box, incorporating the magazine catch/release, would need to be dressed down considerably on both sides to fit in either of my stocks. The plastic on the sides of that box is not thick to begin with; thinning it to the extent necessary does not seem feasible. Hopefully someone can find a way to make this work and post it here.
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Please let us know what happens to the BC m40 stock. Its what I planned on using but I held off on buying since I heard BC's aluminum bedding block prevents the action from fitting.
Thanks!
If you are referring to my post above re: the B&C Medalist stock, let me clarify: the barreled action fits perfectly. It is the plastic magazine box incorporating the magazine retention/release button that prevents this fitment. This is a separate plastic piece held to the bottom of the barreled action with a single screw.
B&C once made, and maybe they still do, an inexpensive sporter-style stock with excellent ergos similar to the Medalist, reasonably stiff construction, but no bedding block. If that is still available it would be a simple matter to modify it to work on the T1X. I no longer have one of these, but IIRC it would still be a considerable improvement over the flimsy OEM stock which is the new gun's only major failing.
Tikka's put themselves in an interesting position. The current rifles are priced competitively with CZ, but don't offer classic wood-and-blued-steel looks and feel, not yet anyway, and if they do I don't expect it will be at that price point.
I'll be very surprised if they don't shoot as well or better than most of the CZ 455 rifles on the market today. They're priced well below the 14 series Anschutz rifles, but I expect they'll give them a run for the money accuracy-wise if the barrel quality of the big-brother T3 and T3x is any indication.
I would expect a wood-stock version of the T1x to come in around $800, significantly more than a CZ 455 American in Turkish walnut. That's where the rubber will meet the road. If they don't consistently out-shoot the CZ, that market will be pretty soft for them. Even if they do shoot better, how many mainstream shooters will pay the extra cash to get that accuracy combined with classic good looks?
If they can offer Anschutz-class accuracy and looks with a Hunter or Forest stock at a couple hundred dollars less than the 14-series Anschutz, I see them eroding more of the Anschutz sporter market than the CZ market.
The CZ 457 is as yet an unknown quantity. If the barrel quality is comparable to the 455, it's likely to be the lame duck in that mid-to-high priced sporter market if it can't keep up with the probable evolution of a Hunter version of the T1x.
I'll be very surprised if they don't shoot as well or better than most of the CZ 455 rifles on the market today. They're priced well below the 14 series Anschutz rifles, but I expect they'll give them a run for the money accuracy-wise if the barrel quality of the big-brother T3 and T3x is any indication.
I would expect a wood-stock version of the T1x to come in around $800, significantly more than a CZ 455 American in Turkish walnut. That's where the rubber will meet the road. If they don't consistently out-shoot the CZ, that market will be pretty soft for them. Even if they do shoot better, how many mainstream shooters will pay the extra cash to get that accuracy combined with classic good looks?
If they can offer Anschutz-class accuracy and looks with a Hunter or Forest stock at a couple hundred dollars less than the 14-series Anschutz, I see them eroding more of the Anschutz sporter market than the CZ market.
The CZ 457 is as yet an unknown quantity. If the barrel quality is comparable to the 455, it's likely to be the lame duck in that mid-to-high priced sporter market if it can't keep up with the probable evolution of a Hunter version of the T1x.
leaving mine bone stock with the exception of the trigger, will be shooting it off the sinclair bipod and testing for accuracy to see if it lives up to all the hype......scope is bore sighted and ready to go but the local range is closed on christmas day........dying to chute it.......
After the accuracy testing....it will be getting a facelift and the burris rings replaced with FX no limits scopes so we can test at 2 and 300 yards
After the accuracy testing....it will be getting a facelift and the burris rings replaced with FX no limits scopes so we can test at 2 and 300 yards
Merry Christmas! After having the T1x for several weeks I finally got my hands on it... here’s my mini review:
- Overall not the feel of quality and fine engineering the centerfires have but I expect things will smooth out and loosen up after. bit of use... I’m getting used to it already especially after putting it in a real stock, but it doesn’t have the high end feel I expected. As long as it’s accurate and functions well I’ll be very happy with it. The blueing is nice.
- Varmint T3x stock changes the gun from a toy to a real rifle, and raises chin weld to nice height. There is cavernous room around the barrel but it looks good. GET ONE IF YOU CAN!!! DO IT!!!
- T3 (not T3x) Hunter stock doesn’t fit, a small amount of wood removal is required for the mag well to fit in. Note above is a T3x Varmint stock, not T3 Varmint.
- Trigger is perfect after adjusting it as light as possible, no need for spring replacement
- Scope is a Leupold vx-2 3-9 rimfire, rings are cheap B-square rimfire. Measured height bottom of ring base to bottom of where scope sits is 0.39”. The rings were slightly high for a good cheek weld in the original stock, perfect in the varmint stock. I like low rings. There is plenty of room for the scope objective in this setup.
- Using a Wheeler FAT torque wrench in 5lbs increments, the rear action screw (by the trigger) first moved at 35inch. lbs, the front at 40. So I tightened them both at 35 in the Varmint stock.
:bthum
1 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr
2 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr
3 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr
4 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr
5 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr
6 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr
[/url]7 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr[/IMG]
- Overall not the feel of quality and fine engineering the centerfires have but I expect things will smooth out and loosen up after. bit of use... I’m getting used to it already especially after putting it in a real stock, but it doesn’t have the high end feel I expected. As long as it’s accurate and functions well I’ll be very happy with it. The blueing is nice.
- Varmint T3x stock changes the gun from a toy to a real rifle, and raises chin weld to nice height. There is cavernous room around the barrel but it looks good. GET ONE IF YOU CAN!!! DO IT!!!
- T3 (not T3x) Hunter stock doesn’t fit, a small amount of wood removal is required for the mag well to fit in. Note above is a T3x Varmint stock, not T3 Varmint.
- Trigger is perfect after adjusting it as light as possible, no need for spring replacement
- Scope is a Leupold vx-2 3-9 rimfire, rings are cheap B-square rimfire. Measured height bottom of ring base to bottom of where scope sits is 0.39”. The rings were slightly high for a good cheek weld in the original stock, perfect in the varmint stock. I like low rings. There is plenty of room for the scope objective in this setup.
- Using a Wheeler FAT torque wrench in 5lbs increments, the rear action screw (by the trigger) first moved at 35inch. lbs, the front at 40. So I tightened them both at 35 in the Varmint stock.
:bthum
1 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr2 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr3 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr4 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr5 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr6 by Mike Pospolita, on Flickr
Is that purely the stock trigger that has been adjusted or have you done something to it as well?
