The SL8 Mods, Info and FAQ Thread

I did the chisel on the magwell and it worked fine, I was going to use the dremell but I didn't want all the filings in there. If you take it slow you shouldn't even know it was ever done.

Thanks for the info on the Hera there chev!!
 
Chevguy93 said:
Hi Rabid, Wolverine has confirmed that the Gen 2 included both adapters and the Gen 1 was only for the AR style rear.

Anyone try the Gen1 version? it looks like the buttstock post screws in but has no provision for the adapter that keeps it from rotating? How do you mount the stock without it spinning loose since the post is keyed to the stock?
Click to expand...

The gen 1 needed to have the castle nut tightend down and/or a spacer inside the threading for the buffer tube to press against for alignment.
 
Thanks to our friend at HK Pro I have added a new optic rail to the first page. Looks like nice stuff. There is a Canadian dealer listed in their dealer list!
 
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So what are the options for 5/20 oem style mags, (that can actually be purchased) I did the AR magwel kit but I actually like the mag release on the stock set up better. I'd like a G36 style 5/20 or 5/30 that would work with the stock magwell. Seems like they're super hard to find. Any input would be super!
 
flashG said:
Emailed the Canadian dealer for spuhr products, they told me that they no longer carry the magwell.
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That's not the information I recieved.

"Hi,

We do not stock the “G36 Accessories”. If interested we can notify when/if our next contract order for SPUHR comes up.

Regards,

Kamran
CEO/President
www.coretacsolutions.com"

It's curious that I couldn't find it listed at any other of the distributors either yet though... could be too new yet?
 
incorrigible said:
That's not the information I recieved.

"Hi,

We do not stock the “G36 Accessories”. If interested we can notify when/if our next contract order for SPUHR comes up.

Regards,

Kamran
CEO/President
www.coretacsolutions.com"
Click to expand...

Same here. I've e-mailed them about the G36 top rail. the "when/if" is not reassuring at all...
 
Dukeoflawnchair said:
Hello SL8 Gurus!

I've read rumor of a "crack" that can develop in SL8 buttstocks.

Has this been corrected, or is it one of those 1 in a billion things that have just been blown far out of proportion?

eg...

http://www.sminnick.com/gun/sl8crack.html

Many thanks!
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It was a rare issue with the very first version. Long since remedied. It had happened to all kinds of metal framed firearms over the years, but as the G36 was one of the first full poly framed rifles, certainly one of the most popular, it took a lot of heat as it was new.

The popular convention was that recievers had to be metal... kind of like when the M16 initially came in and the old boys all said the furniture had to be wood. It was new and scary.

I've never heard or seen of a first hand account of the cracking that was supposed to ruin the rifle. I don't think it help that HK essentially gave the owner a great big HK FU with warranty claims... as I recall anyway. It didn't make them any friends clientelle wise.
 
Hi every body.

Maybe I miss it, but I did not find any thread about SL8 lubrification and cleaning. I get some issue with my SL8. It's seem somethimes the firing pin did not hit hard enough the primer. And I get unfired cartridges. When I look to the primer the punching hole is not deep like the one on a ejected shell.

Maybe it's my fault and it's only a matter of maintenance. How did you clean it and with what product? What parts did you lubificate? The bolt carrier only? The bolt itself... Did the firing pin need lubrification? What oil or grease did you use?

Thank you in advance.
 
I have been having the exact same problem with mine. I read on hk pro that if the bolt/firing pin is over lubricated that it can slow the firing pin down and cause light primer strikes. Something to do with hk's tight tolerances or something. I had thoroughly sprayed my bolt group down with oil before putting it away for a number of months. I'm thinking this is the cause. I took everything apart and cleaned with a biodegradable de-greaser then rinsed and dried and lubricated with a small amount of high temperature grease (saw a great youtube vid on this). When I reassembled and dry fired the gun it sounded much more crisp..... hoping this solved the problem. Heading out to the range this weekend to test and will update you.
 
What are the thoughts on using dry graphite for lube? We use it at work a bit and found it cant be beat in areas that wet lube atracts dirt, the cold also has no efect on it. I guess you would possably loose the rust inhibiting though??
 
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