The SL8 Mods, Info and FAQ Thread
- Thread starter CNADNSL8-5
- Start date
- Location
- Southern ON.
Glad you got it figured out. As gunnertrav said, HK did change to 1 spring.
- Location
- Southern ON.
Update on SPUHR magwells.
ETA in Cadnada is 4-5 weeks. Distributer is Coretac Solutions. Preorder/prepay is available now.
ETA in Cadnada is 4-5 weeks. Distributer is Coretac Solutions. Preorder/prepay is available now.
I recently started working on a load for the same bullet. I used cci standard small rifle primers for all of my loads. 24 grains of varget and 2.26 OAL showed the best group at .82" for a 5 shot group. I'm hoping with a little work I can get it to the .5" range, but we'll see. Surprisingly I had a .83" 5 shot group with 55 gr moly coated hornady v-max's and 23 gr of varget with an OAL of 2.303". Hopefully I can improve this load as well.
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Man how do you find these things , not that I am complaining , you must ave an inside source.....
- Location
- Southern ON.
gunnertrav
Member
- Location
- Northern Alberta
Magwell I have, but the spuhr top rail looks great. Does anyone know how much lower it is than the original?
- Location
- Southern ON.
The SPUHR magwell is available for preorder/prepay though Coretac Solutions. They are $239 plus tax/shipping. They include a new bolt catch to make sure the it stays open on the last round.
I'm not sure. They won't be available until after the magwells come out.
I'm not sure. They won't be available until after the magwells come out.
- Location
- Southern ON.
Yes. I believe this is the first production run of the magwell. It has been in development and testing for a while.
They have been tested in house, but we won't know for sure untill they hit the real world.
I have not heard of any in the field yet. I do have one on order for myself.
Yes, it does cost more than the NEA. However, the SPUHR magwell is ambidextrous, and includes a new boltcatch/release to ensure proper function.
Is it worth the extra money? I guess I'll find out.
Before i start, I have read this whole thread at one point or another and do not recall ever seeing anyone discuss the problem I was having with my SL8 after I converted it to use a G36 trigger housing and stock. I figured I better bring it up because it was a VERY unsafe gun before I fixed the problem.
I converted my SL8 to use a G36 3 position trigger housing and G36C stock using a HDPS stock block. I disassembled the FCG from one stock and moved it over to the next (yes I assembled it right, I double checked this). After doing this, on two occasions, I had the gun shoot a round when I released the bolt (I am confident the gun was also on safe, but can't say for sure, either way it shouldn't matter). This happened with nothing anywhere near the trigger or inside the guard, I simply released the bolt from it's locked back position and the gun loaded a round and fired it. The gun would function properly up until the hammer was released without a round in the chamber. Cycling the action would not #### the hammer and lock it in position. To #### the hammer I had to insert a empty mag and cycle the action. After doing this, the next round would go off without pulling the trigger when the action was cycled.
Along with this, the two screws at the back of the grip/stock block assembly and the pin that holds the mag well in place all fit much tighter than they had on the factory stock. The bolt hold open would also only function properly occasionally.
Once all of this happened I did some research and found that the G36 trigger housings are 1/16 of an inch too high at the top, as the rails that the trigger housing sits against on the SL8 are 1/16 of an inch lower than they are on the G36. Once I found this, I checked the gun and saw that there was a small gap between the raised ridge on the top of the trigger housing and the bottom of the receiver. To make the trigger housing fit properly you need to remove this 1/16 of an inch from the top of the trigger housing. I did this using sand paper stapled to the top of my work bench and gradually sanded the top of the trigger housing down, checking the fit several times, until it fit properly.
I just had the gun out to the range and everything works as it did from the factory, BHO worked properly, hammer cocked each time the action was cycled, and most importantly, I could not get the gun to go off unless the trigger was pulled, even when I repeated the same scenario that made the gun go off without pulling the trigger before.
Definitely something to look into if you're using a factory HK G36 trigger housing. Here is the link to the thread that made me aware of the problem: hkpro.com
EDIT: Here is a picture showing the areas that were sanded down. I sanded down the whole top surface of the trigger housing, as you can see by the areas that appear more of a greyish white colour than the section just below the hammer which is untouched.
I converted my SL8 to use a G36 3 position trigger housing and G36C stock using a HDPS stock block. I disassembled the FCG from one stock and moved it over to the next (yes I assembled it right, I double checked this). After doing this, on two occasions, I had the gun shoot a round when I released the bolt (I am confident the gun was also on safe, but can't say for sure, either way it shouldn't matter). This happened with nothing anywhere near the trigger or inside the guard, I simply released the bolt from it's locked back position and the gun loaded a round and fired it. The gun would function properly up until the hammer was released without a round in the chamber. Cycling the action would not #### the hammer and lock it in position. To #### the hammer I had to insert a empty mag and cycle the action. After doing this, the next round would go off without pulling the trigger when the action was cycled.
Along with this, the two screws at the back of the grip/stock block assembly and the pin that holds the mag well in place all fit much tighter than they had on the factory stock. The bolt hold open would also only function properly occasionally.
Once all of this happened I did some research and found that the G36 trigger housings are 1/16 of an inch too high at the top, as the rails that the trigger housing sits against on the SL8 are 1/16 of an inch lower than they are on the G36. Once I found this, I checked the gun and saw that there was a small gap between the raised ridge on the top of the trigger housing and the bottom of the receiver. To make the trigger housing fit properly you need to remove this 1/16 of an inch from the top of the trigger housing. I did this using sand paper stapled to the top of my work bench and gradually sanded the top of the trigger housing down, checking the fit several times, until it fit properly.
I just had the gun out to the range and everything works as it did from the factory, BHO worked properly, hammer cocked each time the action was cycled, and most importantly, I could not get the gun to go off unless the trigger was pulled, even when I repeated the same scenario that made the gun go off without pulling the trigger before.
Definitely something to look into if you're using a factory HK G36 trigger housing. Here is the link to the thread that made me aware of the problem: hkpro.com
EDIT: Here is a picture showing the areas that were sanded down. I sanded down the whole top surface of the trigger housing, as you can see by the areas that appear more of a greyish white colour than the section just below the hammer which is untouched.
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- Location
- Southern ON.
I've put a direct ling to your post on page 1.
There was a pic of (its somewhere on CGN or HKpro) of the part that needed to be filed down.
There was a pic of (its somewhere on CGN or HKpro) of the part that needed to be filed down.
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great, thanks CNADNSL8-5. Its definitely something people should know about if they are using a G36 trigger housing. I added a pic to my post and changed all the "lower"s to "trigger housing"s, i couldn't remember the proper name for it so i went with what chopstix kid called it lol.
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- Location
- Southern ON.
Correct.
- Location
- Southern ON.
SL8/G36 custom barrels
Those of you who are looking for custom barrels in either restricted or non restricted lengs should give Dlask Arms a call. They are going to make a couple for a member on CGN (not me). If you want an E,K or C length and need the gass block, barrel nut and pin you can find them on RKS plus. You can also send in your existing barrel and have Dlask remove the parts you need and put them on the new barrel.
Those of you who are looking for custom barrels in either restricted or non restricted lengs should give Dlask Arms a call. They are going to make a couple for a member on CGN (not me). If you want an E,K or C length and need the gass block, barrel nut and pin you can find them on RKS plus. You can also send in your existing barrel and have Dlask remove the parts you need and put them on the new barrel.
- Location
- Southern ON.
Overall the HERA BCK2 would be the simplest.
