The Stag 10s NR stripped receiver set thread

Hi Guys,
I am thinking of making a upper myself. I presume that I need the following items:


1. Barrel
2. Gas Block
3. Hand Guard
4. Muzzle Device

I have th following tools:
1. Torque Wrench
2. Good Bench Vise

What other tools are required? I believe that I need a barrel reaction rod. It cost about $120. Plus I would also need to buy/rent go/no go gauges to check headspace. This is another $50-60 item.

Would it be more cost effective if I were to go to a gun smith? I am in down town Toronto, where people can buy multiple guns without ever having to account for them.

You guidance is very much appreciated.
I think you also need a barrel nut wrench, I got the reaction rod and barrel nut wrench from Brownells for $90 Us.
I do t think you need the gAuges.I just use a FL sized case.
 
Gas tube, charging handle, bolt carrier group.

Geissele reaction rod, barrel nut wrench

BCG and charging handles are just parts. They don’t really go in building the upper. I was under the impression that barrel but and barrel nut wrench is specific to the hand guard and comes with it. Any idea how much would it cost for the gun smith to install barrel, gas tube and hand guard and check for head space or other safety checks?
 
BCG and charging handles are just parts. They don’t really go in building the upper. I was under the impression that barrel but and barrel nut wrench is specific to the hand guard and comes with it. Any idea how much would it cost for the gun smith to install barrel, gas tube and hand guard and check for head space or other safety checks?

You need a BCG to check headspace.
 
Can you please tell me more about checking head space? How do you do that and what is the FL case?

I reload so I use a full lenght sized case,in a bolt.
I don’t see the point of using gauges on an AR, as you really don’t have the same control as a bolt, barrel nut.
I’ve tryed and it’s not the same .
Just put your barrel on and torque to 50 ft lbs ,and you should be fine.

I just take a FL case and make sure the bolt closes on it, or maybe you can remove the firing pin and use a factory cartridge
 
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I reload so I use a full lenght sized case,in a bolt.
I don’t see the point of using gauges on an AR, as you really don’t have the same control as a bolt, barrel nut.
I’ve tryed and it’s not the same .
Just put your barrel on and torque to 50 inch lbs ,and you should be fine.

:confused:
 
What do you do if the chamber is either to loose or tight?

If the extension is already fitted and the gas port already drilled, send it back to the manufacturer or gunsmith.

Assuming you have a nitrided or chromed barrel and the chamber is too tight, not much you can do without reaming the chamber and ruining your chrome or nitrided bore. If the chamber is too loose, you'd have to somehow set the chamber back while maintaining proper indexing of the gas port and barrel extension index pin. Too much bull#### for the average dude if even possible.
 
What do you do if the chamber is either to loose or tight?

If bolt and barrel are finished commercial products, headspace is fixed by the relationship of the bolt locking in the barrel extension.
If manufacturing tolerances are correct, headspace will probably be within acceptable limits.
The only way to confirm this is to use gauges.
If the action closes on an unfired case, a full length sized case, all that tells you is that the action will close on the case. It does not tell you if there is excess headspace.
Often AR barrels are chromed. If the rifle will not accept a GO gauge, reaming a chromed chamber to correct the situation may be problematic. Swapping parts might work.
If an AR type rifle accepts a NO GO gauge, once again there really isn't any way of correcting the situation other than swapping parts.
Many used rifles will accept a NO GO gauge. There is the potential for case separation when cases are reloaded. Experienced reloaders can work around excess headspace by sizing the cases to suit the rifle.
If a rifle accepts a FIELD gauge, it probably shouldn't be fired.
Probably most folks who assemble ARs from odds and ends of parts don't check headspace, and don't experience problems. Perhaps this is an indication of close tolerance manufacturing within the industry, or quality cartridge cases.
 
Exactly,so why buy gages?
It’s either going to chamber the round or it’s not.
If it don’t then there’s no adjustment, if it do, pull the trigger ...:)
 
If your chamber is too loose then you could have case head separation.
I’ve experienced a few of those in diff Cal’s.

My point is, you can’t really change your headspace,with gauges, not in an AR .
Maybe tell you if it’s not right, but what are the chances of that?
 
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