Here's how you can more closely examine the issue. First off field strip the gun so the slide is off. Next take the magazines apart removing the follower and spring. If you don't know how then YT for videos.
Now you're good to examine the issue more closely.
Look down from above into the mag well and while working the mag release check that the latch is in fact sticking out into the mag well area. IF it's not there or not moving far enough then something is making it stick instead of moving thru the full range of travel. If it doesn't stick into the mag well it can't snag and retain the magazines.
So it sticks into the mag well? OK, now insert a mag. It should slide in and give a snap as it fully seats. If it does not give you that snap then there is your issue.
But wait, It might be simply that the latch hole in the mags was not cut at the proper location along the length of the mag. Or it may be that the latch is not formed correctly to latch the mag. What you need is for someone with a TT30 to measure their magazines and give us that measurement to a pretty fine level of accuracy. Like we're looking for the measurement to the tune of 0.2mm or 0.005 inch. Roughly plus or minus the thickness of a piece of printer paper.
Check too that if the grips on your gun extend down the front that they do not block the magazine from seating fully. As I recall the TT30 mags have a little toe tab. If the grips are the wrap around style and they extend a little low at the front of the mag well then it will bump into that tab before the mags are fully seated. The mags need to be able to seat fully such that the tab on the toe of the mags is able to bump the rim of the frame at the front of the mag well opening. That would be the obvious and first thing to check if you have the often see Tokegypt style wrap around grips.
Otherwise it's a case of waiting for someone with a good accurate measurement of the latch notch distance from the base to the notch. And then you'll need a way to measure your own magazines to that degree of accuracy. This isn't the time for a casual ruler measurement. You'll want a set of calipers. Or at least you can sort of get an idea of this with a good machinist's ruler and a magnifier to be able to split the divisions to that degree.
Once you get some information and figure this out you can plan your next step. Keep in mind that this stuff is 95 to 98% analysis and deduction and only 2 to 5% metal removal. Do the last bit too early with wrong or insufficient data and you risk making things worse.
Without that information you could still make it work. But you run the risk of fixing the wrong part and future magazines would not fit well. I would say that it's gunsmith time.
And if all of this sounds like some other language then again it would be gunsmith time.
Hey 2500,
It's been a few weeks since your post but what you're doing is not far off correct. My big concern is that I've seen flash rusting on guns that were cleaned in soapy water then heated to dry them. But then I use hot soapy water so it cuts through and removes the old oils which are partially holding the external fouling. Not so much in the bore which was shot enough to dry it fully. But on all the other surfaces.
So I think I'd be cleaning in warm but not super hot soapy water. Just a shot of dish detergent or some non abrasive laundry detergent. A bore brush for the barrel and old tooth brush for all the external surfaces. Rinse with hot water but not so hot that you can't hold your hand in it. Then rather than the toaster oven I'd use WD40 to displace the water. Patch the barrel with it and a second dry toothbrush to do the other surfaces. Dry patch the bore and wipe down the other pieces to remove most of the WD. Patch the bore with a gun oil and dry patch to remove excess. That's the bore done if looking at it shows it's shiny. If dull looking you need to do more work. A second "oil only" toothbrush will make short work of oiling the rest of the parts and surfaces. And if you grease the rails lightly rather than using oil now is the time for that. Re-assemble and you're done.
There's no way around it though. It's still a lot of fussing around for an hour's worth of fun. But it avoids the risk of any flash rusting from heating the wet metal.
Now you're good to examine the issue more closely.
Look down from above into the mag well and while working the mag release check that the latch is in fact sticking out into the mag well area. IF it's not there or not moving far enough then something is making it stick instead of moving thru the full range of travel. If it doesn't stick into the mag well it can't snag and retain the magazines.
So it sticks into the mag well? OK, now insert a mag. It should slide in and give a snap as it fully seats. If it does not give you that snap then there is your issue.
But wait, It might be simply that the latch hole in the mags was not cut at the proper location along the length of the mag. Or it may be that the latch is not formed correctly to latch the mag. What you need is for someone with a TT30 to measure their magazines and give us that measurement to a pretty fine level of accuracy. Like we're looking for the measurement to the tune of 0.2mm or 0.005 inch. Roughly plus or minus the thickness of a piece of printer paper.
Check too that if the grips on your gun extend down the front that they do not block the magazine from seating fully. As I recall the TT30 mags have a little toe tab. If the grips are the wrap around style and they extend a little low at the front of the mag well then it will bump into that tab before the mags are fully seated. The mags need to be able to seat fully such that the tab on the toe of the mags is able to bump the rim of the frame at the front of the mag well opening. That would be the obvious and first thing to check if you have the often see Tokegypt style wrap around grips.
Otherwise it's a case of waiting for someone with a good accurate measurement of the latch notch distance from the base to the notch. And then you'll need a way to measure your own magazines to that degree of accuracy. This isn't the time for a casual ruler measurement. You'll want a set of calipers. Or at least you can sort of get an idea of this with a good machinist's ruler and a magnifier to be able to split the divisions to that degree.
Once you get some information and figure this out you can plan your next step. Keep in mind that this stuff is 95 to 98% analysis and deduction and only 2 to 5% metal removal. Do the last bit too early with wrong or insufficient data and you risk making things worse.
Without that information you could still make it work. But you run the risk of fixing the wrong part and future magazines would not fit well. I would say that it's gunsmith time.
And if all of this sounds like some other language then again it would be gunsmith time.
Hey 2500,
It's been a few weeks since your post but what you're doing is not far off correct. My big concern is that I've seen flash rusting on guns that were cleaned in soapy water then heated to dry them. But then I use hot soapy water so it cuts through and removes the old oils which are partially holding the external fouling. Not so much in the bore which was shot enough to dry it fully. But on all the other surfaces.
So I think I'd be cleaning in warm but not super hot soapy water. Just a shot of dish detergent or some non abrasive laundry detergent. A bore brush for the barrel and old tooth brush for all the external surfaces. Rinse with hot water but not so hot that you can't hold your hand in it. Then rather than the toaster oven I'd use WD40 to displace the water. Patch the barrel with it and a second dry toothbrush to do the other surfaces. Dry patch the bore and wipe down the other pieces to remove most of the WD. Patch the bore with a gun oil and dry patch to remove excess. That's the bore done if looking at it shows it's shiny. If dull looking you need to do more work. A second "oil only" toothbrush will make short work of oiling the rest of the parts and surfaces. And if you grease the rails lightly rather than using oil now is the time for that. Re-assemble and you're done.
There's no way around it though. It's still a lot of fussing around for an hour's worth of fun. But it avoids the risk of any flash rusting from heating the wet metal.
