Thieme and Schlegelmilch Nimrod project

iron cat said:
I never could figure out why people would NOT use a sling on their shotguns if the swivels were there!
Makes no sense to me. if they are there, may as well enjoy them!:cool:
Cat
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Puts me in mind of the Sicilian mafia.

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And for us upland hunters, it discourages carrying the gun at the ready.
 
I spent the better part of yesterday reassembling the Nimrod. Word to the wise...If you choose to seal the exposed wood in the head or recessed parts of your stock with "crazy glue", know this: It soaks in and makes the wood very strong and stable. Also, even though it goes on like water, It builds more than I expected. When I rough fitted the metal I noticed it was proud of the wood in several spots. I had to carefully re-inlet the parts using a dental scraper and a dremel tool. It took awhile but the fit at the end was excellent and I have no concerns about the stability of the wood or oil soaking issues. Put it on very thinly if you go down this road.

I noted several parts of the gun are stamped 424 which I assume was some kind of build number.
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You could still see pencil markings under the horn pistol grip cap and butt pad. I made sure I didn't do anything to lose these markings. I wonder who wrote them?
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Overall, I am happy with the sheen and colour of the stock. It never had those striking mineral lines you sometimes see in European walnut, but it will do.
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I think it will be more lively in sunlight. No more dings all over the place!
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The forestock was a huge improvement. You can see the grain in the checkering now.

So, now that its back together....those barrels....
 
Very nice job, Dilly. That's a fine looking stock. And between the oil removal and the wood stabilization with the crazy glue, you should be set for years of trouble free use.
 
canvasback said:
Dilly, I have heard of people sealing the wood with Cyanoacrylate (superglue) and also of course epoxy. I haven’t personally used either.

Edit to add: I do know that Chris Dawe has on some of my guns used epoxy to both strengthen and seal the wood as well as build it up in places where the wood contact surface has shrunk to get a very good wood to metal fit again after 100 years.
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I have used CA glue numerous times with much success. Liquid CA glue, not the gel stuff. I first allow the CA glue to completely penetrate the hairline cracks. Continuously squeezing the stock where cracks are really helps the liquid CA travel throughout the crack. Once CA glues has found its way through, I then clamp it down to get the cracks glued together. Its pretty amazing, when you put a clamp on it you’ll see CA squeeze through in areas that you didnt even know there was a crack. Wipe that squeeze through glue with acetone before it dries. Then the following day, I use the CA glue to seal the end of the wood. Its pretty amazing how well CA glue absorbs into the end of the wood and it seals and strengthens it quite nicely.
 
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The only problem with doing the stocks is, now the barrels....those barrels...
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These little dings are bugging me more now.
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And there is this I have to look at all day.

What to do...what to do...
 
And finally, here is the finished gun. I hemmed and hawed trying to decide if I should do the barrels. They had really nice deep colour but were dinged in spots and there was that damned patch by the swivel where rust had removed the bluing. I touched it with a file just to see....and things escalated quickly...next you know the barrels were bare steel and they too went in for a rust blue.
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Fresh as a daisy! and no more crap rusty pitted spot to look at.
 
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