Tikka Accuracy Issue

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PuckHunter

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Anyone ever experience accuracy issues with a Tikka?

Shooting a T3 Stainless 30-06 topped with Sako rings/bases and a Vx3i, was getting only 2 shot half decent groups with Sako ammo... 3rd was a flier each time.

Went through a box before I got it hunt ready and back to the field.

A little disappointed, given the renowned stories about accuracy for these things.

Any thoughts where to start?
 
Did you only try one kind of ammo? Rifles will usually show a preference to a certain kind of ammo or weight of bullet.
 
Strange. Sako 180 grain super hammerhead is what I've been running in both my t3x 30-06's and both produce sub-minute 3 shot groups consistently with it.
 
did you clean the factory storage grease out of the barrel? or did you just slide the bolt in the action, slap a scope on it and head out to the range?
 
I to have a Tikka T3 stainless .30-06 and a 3x9x40 Leupold scope and bases. Zero accuracy issues whatsoever. With 150 grain hand loads all 3 rounds touch eachother at 100 yards.
 
I know for a fact that my tikka stainless likes the barrel fouled up with a few shots before it settles in for accuracy.
 
Taken from the Tikka website:

"All Sako and Tikka rifles and cartridges are tested to guarantee 1 MOA or better accuracy - straight out of the box. Our products are continuously tested for Sako’s high standards on accuracy, performance, stopping power and reliability."

Did you buy it new?
 
The 30oddsix is a hunting round the groups you described is sufficient to take a deer, moose, elk since the kill zone is 12x12 inches. Tikka's are shooters with the proper bullet configuration - unfortunately the 30oddsix isn't inherently accurate as would a 6.5 creedmoor. If you want pin-point accuracy then you could rebarrel your riffle. Before people bash my opinion - and - say that the M1 garand was chambered in 3-oddsix and was used by the forces. I agree - but the accuracy of the M1 was "per google as follows" USGI accuracy standard for the M1 was: 8 shots of issue M2 ball ammo from 100 yds in under 4.0 MOA.

there is nothing wrong with the accuracy of your Tikka just your expectations
 
IvoB said:
The 30oddsix is a hunting round the groups you described is sufficient to take a deer, moose, elk since the kill zone is 12x12 inches. Tikka's are shooters with the proper bullet configuration - unfortunately the 30oddsix isn't inherently accurate as would a 6.5 creedmoor. If you want pin-point accuracy then you could rebarrel your riffle. Before people bash my opinion - and - say that the M1 garand was chambered in 3-oddsix and was used by the forces. I agree - but the accuracy of the M1 was "per google as follows" USGI accuracy standard for the M1 was: 8 shots of issue M2 ball ammo from 100 yds in under 4.0 MOA.

there is nothing wrong with the accuracy of your Tikka just your expectations
Click to expand...

Given that the OP has a bolt action Tikka Rifle, and is shooting hunting loads, your post is totally irrelevant.
 
IvoB said:
The 30oddsix is a hunting round the groups you described is sufficient to take a deer, moose, elk since the kill zone is 12x12 inches. Tikka's are shooters with the proper bullet configuration - unfortunately the 30oddsix isn't inherently accurate as would a 6.5 creedmoor. If you want pin-point accuracy then you could rebarrel your riffle. Before people bash my opinion - and - say that the M1 garand was chambered in 3-oddsix and was used by the forces. I agree - but the accuracy of the M1 was "per google as follows" USGI accuracy standard for the M1 was: 8 shots of issue M2 ball ammo from 100 yds in under 4.0 MOA.

there is nothing wrong with the accuracy of your Tikka just your expectations
Click to expand...
The potential accuracy of an m1 harangue has NOTHING to do with the 30-06 or a bolt action tikka. A good 30-06 can be just as accurate as anything else. One can reasonably expect 1moa or less out of the OP combination
 
I’ve had experience with a number of Tikka’s over the years, all short mags. Only one seemed a but fussy about ammo and seemed particularly sensitive to billet weight. Accuracy was acceptable with most ammo but it showed a preference for heavier bullets.
 
IvoB said:
no i am not - irrelevant - how many sniper rifles are chambered in 30-06
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Well, all of the ones issued by the US armed forces in WW1,WW2, Korea and half of Vietnam for starters. Not to mention all those camp Perry matches?

Bullets and barrels matter. Headstamps not as much.
 
PuckHunter said:
Anyone ever experience accuracy issues with a Tikka?

Shooting a T3 Stainless 30-06 topped with Sako rings/bases and a Vx3i, was getting only 2 shot half decent groups with Sako ammo... 3rd was a flier each time.

Went through a box before I got it hunt ready and back to the field.

A little disappointed, given the renowned stories about accuracy for these things.

Any thoughts where to start?
Click to expand...

#1 I would pull the rifle out of the stock and with a good magnifying glass look at where the recoil lug sits in the stock. Take the recoil lug out of the rifle ( it will pull out nice and easy) and stick it in the recoil lug mortise and give it a wiggle to see if there is any movement.

#2 Check the action screws to see if they are bedding the action to the stock properly.

#3 Make sure the barrel is free floating all the way.

#4 Check the bases for loose screws, as well as the rings for same
#Check the muzzle crown. Get a Q-tip and fluff up the tip and spin it around in the crown, get mag glass and areally stong light source and have a good long look at the last edges of the rifling. If you see Q-tip fibers caught in there, that might be your problem.
#6 Check the front sling swivel stud to see if it has been screwed in too far. I had this happen to me with my .338 Federal Lite Stainless. The sling got turned around a couple of times and it turned the stud enough to break the little plastic house that it screws into and the stud stem was actually touching the barrel. I fixed it by removing the sling stud and cleaning up the broken piece as best I could with a dremel tool and then I used some Brownells Steel Bed epoxy to basically plastic weld the stud back into place. It worked and was far stronger than before. Good luck.
 
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