Tikka owners please help

Thanks for all the suggestions, need to do more study and research tonight.

Timmy204,

Do you mind if I ask you what size objective is on your scope and which height Warne rings are you using?

Those are mediums, the objective is a 40mm but it is adjustable so more like a 50mm. I think they have a chart on their web sight that makes it easy to get the right ones.
 
Those are mediums, the objective is a 40mm but it is adjustable so more like a 50mm. I think they have a chart on their web sight that makes it easy to get the right ones.

Thanks for your prompt reply.

Will look into that.

Also, what stock is your rifle wearing?

Looks like a custom one and how did you bed the recoil lug area?
 
Thanks for your prompt reply.

Will look into that.

Also, what stock is your rifle wearing?
Looks like a custom one and how did you bed the recoil lug area?
That's a pattern stock I'm working on, she's a one of a kind right now. Not enough aftermarket support for the tikka guy's, I want to help out with that. The recoil lug on a tikka is .240" and the slot in the stock is .250" so a light coating of Devcon or any good epoxy in the slot and on the lug and your good to go. Just make sure you put release agent ( furniture paste wax is what I use) on the bottom of the action and in the recoil lug slot so it doesn't stick when you remove it the next day.
 
Don't overlook Warne scope rings, perminent or quick detach. They mount right to the dovetail and are rock solid, plus they have a built in recoil lug and also look pretty slick.

Here's what they look like

IMG_0734_zpsea77625a.jpg

I had a set fail on me - they were on a T3 in 9.3x62. The recoil lug broke off.
 
I have tried Tikka weaver and leupold bases and rings, Optilocks, as well as Warne direct mount rings and DNZ game reapers... The Warne Maxima and DNZ Game reapers are the only ones I will use on my Tikkas. For up to a 44mm bell, a medium DNZ setup, or low Warnes will work fine. I didn't like the others as even with low mounts the scope was way too high for me. I did try low DNZ's, but the cases hit the scope turrets upon ejection.
Regarding the bedding - I like Tikkas, but have found their two weaknesses - one is the recoil lug - IMHO bed an aftermarket stainless steel recoil lug into the stock for best results. That made my groups much more consistent, big time, as without bedding you cant get the stock to sit real tight, as there are no pillars and a very soft trigger guard that the action screws torque onto/thru. Fine with low recoiling calibers, but no good with bigger cartridges.
 
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I've been running my tikka 7 mm mag and tikka rings on a leupold
Scope for 25 years I've hunted hard and that rifle has slid down many steep banks
Pick it up and still shoot an elk at 600 yards leave the factory rings they will work just fine
 
From what I have seen, it's the screws that come with the Optilocks , that are soft.
I wasn't even thinking about the screws - I too have heard of guys stripping the ring screws. I will say that I have 6 sets of Optiloks on various Sako and Tikka rifles and have never stripped a single screw (I do use a torque wrench) and have never had a scope slip.
 
The Tikka rings you must be talking about must be the ones that come withthe rifle in the USA. They are not Optilocks.

Me, I prefer and have the Optilocks on all my T3 and Sako rifles.

Talleys would be my next choice for the Tikka.
 
Another question for Tikka owners:

I always glass bed my bolt action rifles how many of you bed yours I have the T3 lite SS in 7mm RM with the synthetic stock?

Also,I am looking to shave every possible ounce and don't want to flute the already thin barrel any area in the stock I can work on to save some weight?
 
Another question for Tikka owners:

I always glass bed my bolt action rifles how many of you bed yours I have the T3 lite SS in 7mm RM with the synthetic stock?

Also,I am looking to shave every possible ounce and don't want to flute the already thin barrel any area in the stock I can work on to save some weight?

The recoil lug design makes bedding them problematic. If it is accurate then just leave it. One fellow on 24hr CF - who uses his Tikka's for long range shooting, told me anything under .300 Win Mag seems to have been ok for him. For the heavy recoiling chamberings he found the Bell & Carlsson stock fixed any accuracy issues, and he suggested that route vs bedding.
 
I wasn't even thinking about the screws - I too have heard of guys stripping the ring screws. I will say that I have 6 sets of Optiloks on various Sako and Tikka rifles and have never stripped a single screw (I do use a torque wrench) and have never had a scope slip.

The way I look at it, Optilock screws are like those "stretch" headbolts on VW engines - they are "soft" for a reason. At the same time, they are a PITA if you are not prepared before you start to work with them.

As to the original post, my preference is QD mounts. I have two each for my two older Tikkas. So, for a T3 it would be this:

MaSiT3QDMount.png


Light weight and strong, excellent design and build quality, and yes, they do keep zero...
 
Here is my set for a Tikka where the recoil lug broke off.
image_zps63be6a68.jpg

Ouch... may those Warne rings rust in piece(s.)

The way I look at it, just cough up the dough for the best quality rings right at the outset. I would not spend the money on a good scope and skimp on the rings. Optilocks are good, but I changed over to MaSi QD mounts for my Tikkas. No regrets.
 
Another question for Tikka owners:

I always glass bed my bolt action rifles how many of you bed yours I have the T3 lite SS in 7mm RM with the synthetic stock?

Also,I am looking to shave every possible ounce and don't want to flute the already thin barrel any area in the stock I can work on to save some weight?

This might not help with weight reduction, but with all my heavier recoiling T3s I make a heavier recoil lug out of steel to replace the factory one.
I think this eliminates any chance of stock movement after glass bedding.
 
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