TIKKA RIFLE BUILD QUESTIONS 300wsm,6.8 western,7saum??

No doubt from anyone that a 30cal magnum is going to be more effective on game then a 6.5. But a large light magnum is not the right road to teach you how to shoot.
I would rather take a 6.5 hunting and be effective with it and know my limitations then take a 30cal magnum that I developed a flinch shooting.
 
Just go buy yourself a Kimber Montana in 280AI and put one of their brakes on it....very light, good out to 800 yds (if you're capable), great adjustable triggers, very accurate, and retains good value. :)

I have looked at the 280ai and alot of hunters love it. Similar to the 7rm with less recoil. Also do like the kimber models.
 
Poor shot placement is going to end with poor results, no matter the caliber.

If you think you need a big magnum to drop North American game (not speaking to you directly), then you may need to work on your shooting...

Opinions are like b holes, everyone has one.

Kthomas loves to spend time on the internet telling people his. Does not hunt. Would “like to get into it”

Surprised you haven’t told OP to avoid IBI barrels yet, due to bad reviews from your friends.
 
i can tell you 270 and 270 wsm was very hard to find this year for a friend. but not having a good stock at home before hunting season will do that to most hunting calibres.
this post sounds a lot like me when i started, thinking i was just going to go out and shoot targets at 700-1000 yards , first you actually have to set the targets up that far .. sounds nice but if you dont have a ATV or cant drive your truck back and forth it is not very fun walking back and forth (heart rate). OR you need a very nice spotting scope to see impact on targets..
even before all that you need to consistently shoot sub moa at 100yds and 200yds...sounds easy but it is 50% shooter and 50% ammo choice. most factory ammo will not do exactly what you want like touch 4 holes at 100 or 200.
the "good" factory stuff is also 100$ + a box , maybe even more when you get into 300 wsm stuff
 
Opinions are like b holes, everyone has one.

Kthomas loves to spend time on the internet telling people his. Does not hunt. Would “like to get into it”

Surprised you haven’t told OP to avoid IBI barrels yet, due to bad reviews from your friends.

If OP didn’t want other peoples opinion. Probably shouldn’t ask for opinions on a public form? My guess is that what he asked for.
Joe
 
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Opinions are like b holes, everyone has one.

Kthomas loves to spend time on the internet telling people his. Does not hunt. Would “like to get into it”

Surprised you haven’t told OP to avoid IBI barrels yet, due to bad reviews from your friends.

What about my statement is wrong?

And why do you want to bring up IBI?
 
What about my statement is wrong?

And why do you want to bring up IBI?

You’re a .243/.264 steel plate shooter. Likely pretty good too, probably well above average, based on the forums you frequent, and the usual theme of your posts. CGN is not my only hangout either.

But you’ve never held a tag. You’ve never recovered a bullet and seen terminal performance. You’ve never had your finger on the safety about to take an animals life. You’ve never hauled meat through grizz country. You’ve never flown in on a once in a lifetime hunt and had an opportunity for a 180 muley, 12 year old sheep, or 230 moose.

This is pretty far from your wheelhouse. OP has field experience and is a claimed proficient shooter. I’m an average to slightly above shooter, and can be surgical with a 9lb braked WSM.

You immediately call “noobs can’t shoot magnums. Get a Swede” followed by “375 chey”, because you think you’re funny.

Then you regurgitate the same old s*** MDS guys say, similar how you regurgitate the same old s*** your buddies say about IBI. Nothing you said about poor shot placement is wrong. It’s been said a million times before. Same as every other thing you regurgitate.

The 6.5 PRC has been f***ng hammering massive game all over North America and Africa, at ridiculous ranges. But it is not a magic do all cartridge in all situations. Hunting big game is not something achieved or solved with a ballistics calculator.

OP, it’s not that hard to get proficient with magnums if you want too. Brakes help for sure. And you won’t catch me dead in grizz country smelling like a carcass with a 143eldx that’s famous for not expanding at close range, or 156 target bullet.
 
Yeah I mean the grizzly aspect here is pretty huge. I've personally had to shoot warning shots at 50y boar and it did not seem to care and proceeded to come another 20 yards before the spray turned him off. I'm lucky I didn't have any meat in the pack. This made me want a magnum in my hands next time
 
You’re a .243/.264 steel plate shooter. Likely pretty good too, probably well above average, based on the forums you frequent, and the usual theme of your posts. CGN is not my only hangout either.

But you’ve never held a tag. You’ve never recovered a bullet and seen terminal performance. You’ve never had your finger on the safety about to take an animals life. You’ve never hauled meat through grizz country. You’ve never flown in on a once in a lifetime hunt and had an opportunity for a 180 muley, 12 year old sheep, or 230 moose.

This is pretty far from your wheelhouse. OP has field experience and is a claimed proficient shooter. I’m an average to slightly above shooter, and can be surgical with a 9lb braked WSM.

You immediately call “noobs can’t shoot magnums. Get a Swede” followed by “375 chey”, because you think you’re funny.

Then you regurgitate the same old s*** MDS guys say, similar how you regurgitate the same old s*** your buddies say about IBI. Nothing you said about poor shot placement is wrong. It’s been said a million times before. Same as every other thing you regurgitate.

The 6.5 PRC has been f***ng hammering massive game all over North America and Africa, at ridiculous ranges. But it is not a magic do all cartridge in all situations. Hunting big game is not something achieved or solved with a ballistics calculator.

OP, it’s not that hard to get proficient with magnums if you want too. Brakes help for sure. And you won’t catch me dead in grizz country smelling like a carcass with a 143eldx that’s famous for not expanding at close range, or 156 target bullet.

I've hunted and shot white tail deer, geese, duck, pheasants, and various other game. I don't call myself a hunter because it's been about 4 years since I shot my last deer, and have always gone under the tutelage of others. As you know, hunting is much more then just pulling the trigger and killing an animal. There are many around me that are very experienced hunters, and are much more deserving of the title "hunter" then I am. I want to learn much more about the craft of hunting before I call myself a hunter, and it's a deep dive that I want to get into.

Most shooters do not shoot magnums well, that's a fact. Especially hunters, that spend little time practicing the craft of shooting. The more a rifle recoils, the more it will exploit any flaw in your fundamentals, which means that there's a higher chance of the projectile not landing in the place that you intended. This is also amplified by distance.

A 6.5mm cartridge is much more forgiving to shoot then a 7mm or .30 cal Magnum. A 6.5mm projectile landing in the correct spot will generally have better performance then a 7mm or .30 cal landing in the wrong spot. In the Nordic countries, 6.5x55 has been used to take big game successfully for generations.

Anyways, that's just my opinion as a stranger on the internet that spends a lot of time shooting rifles. Just trying to provide a slightly different perspective as to why something other then a magnum may be beneficial to the OP. I personally don't think magnums are a great answer to a lot of our hunting needs in North America, and they cause a lot of issues in shooters that don't spend a lot of time practicing. That said, magnums have their place, and for better or worse, the OP will make their decision. North Americans have a fascination with being "over gunned", and people that spend a lot of time training hunters, such as Phil & Caylen, have commented on how detrimental this mentality can be.

PS - IBI did have initial issues with QC when they got started, they admitted to this. I don't recommend products to people that I know have issues. That said, IBI has supposedly rectified this, and I haven't brought it up in over a year. I also have no interest in rehashing that, because it serves no purpose at this point.
 
Having a look at your criteria, I would say:

1- biggest game animals in BC includes bear; if it's grizzly country then of the listed cartridges I would highly recommend the .300 WSM. Black bears are usually hunted over baits at short ranges and not nearly as large as brown/grizzly bears so you don't need the power but if you want to hint something that bites back, the extra heft and diameter from .308-cal projectiles is ideal and affords more room for error.
2- 700yd on target, 500 on game; all 3 can handle this task but again, I would stick with the WSM and heavy, high BC bullets - lots of selection from 190gr Accubond for game to 210gr+ for 1km+ precision shooting.
3- 1km practice; the real limitations are personal skill and optics here, all 3 cartridges can reach 1km fairly easily.
4- the higher the powder:bore ratio, the longer barrel you will need to achieve an efficient burn (or use faster burning powders which sacrifices velocity). WSM will likely be the most efficient out of "standard" length barrels.
5- lightweight for mountain hunting means giving up stability and repeatability of a heavier target barrel.

If you were to ask me which rifle gets as close to those requirements as possible, I would probably lean towards a Browning X-Bolt Hell's Canyon Speed.

In the WSM chambering it is built on an actual short action receiver, but the magazine gives a smidge extra length to work with.

The barrel length is right at 23" and it comes with a radial brake to soak up some of the recoil, the 43" OAL is manageable in the field easily.

The brake and decent recoil pad together takes the bite out of the recoil for extended range sessions and extended range shooting.

10-twist barrel in the .300 WSM will stabilize everything but the longest 250gr match bullets. 205-210gr no problem.

Rifle itself is under 7 pounds, with Talley lightweights and a scope capable of 1km you can go afield with an 8.5 pound gun/scope combo. The Swaro you are thinking of should get you there for sure and would be a good pairing for a .300 WSM's capabilities as well as should give enough useful magnification and adjustment range for 1km.

In my view this would be the EASIEST way to get what you want with very few compromises and it will do everything you want it to in the field and on the range with good factory ammo availability.
 
Id consider a 7 rem mag, i know it might not be that new and flashy but it will get the job done. Tikka actions are all the same length so your not loosing any weight by going to a saum/wsm cartridge. With that said the tikka magazine cartridge max length is just shy of 3.340" so a 7 mag is about as long as comfortable if your shooting high bc bullets.

Dont get me wrong the 7saum and 7 wsm are great cartridges its just sourcing brass and dies could be expensive and a tough to find. I'm honestly hoping it catches on that people start necking up 6.5prc to 7mm. This would allow shooters to utilize quality brass like Lapua and put it in saum territory.

But for simplicity i went 7mag in my Tikka. My load is 162gr ELD-x at 3050fps. It really does well on moose and black bear. And in a pinch you can always acquire factory ammo for it
 
I would go for the 6.5 PRC. Lots of manufacturers making rifles for them. Lots of factory match ammo around for practice. Hunting ammo comes up if you your your eyes open.

I own one in the Savage Ultralight with the proof barrel. The gun weighs just over 6 lbs and I put a 22 oz ZEISS scope on mine with talley rings/bases. It balances nice and shoots lights out. Say what you want about Savage rifles but these actions are tried and a proof barrel will run you $1000 alone. The barrel is threaded but the cartridge is honestly a pussycat despite the awesome ballistics you get.

Learn to reload and all the worries of ammo go away, haha. Buy lots of components when on sale and you’ll be good forever.
 
Well it sounds like you’ve decided on the 300 WSM, buy a new or used Tikka T3x SS 300 wsm or a Sako A7 wsm rifle, order a Wildcat Carbon Fiber UL stock from Wildcat in Alberta, send the rifle to gunsmith GE Flach and have him cut the barrel to your desired length and add one of his hand made brakes and install the Wildcat stock, if you want to go a step further buy an used T3x wsm and rebarrel as well with a Benchmark or IBI barrel in your desired contour/twist/length
You will want a brake if you intend to do any amount of shooting with a 300 WSM

Ditch the Swarovski 1” tube scope, pick up a 30mm tube scope if you plan to practice on shooting long range target out to 1000 yards or more.
I love Zeiss V4 4-16x44 scope,(22oz) tough as nails zero stop MOA dial, tons of MOA adjustment up from a 100 yard zero in Talley lightweight mounts, lots of great 30mm tube scopes on the market designed for long range shooting, just pay attention to the weight of the scope to keep it towards your goal.

Of your choices Myself I would go 7 SAUM for a back packing hunting rig but it’s just a personal preference.
 
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As a matter of fact GE Flach is building me a 7 SAUM on a Sako A7 SS WSM action, 23 inch #2 fluted 1-9 twist Benchmark Barrel,
I’m going to stick with the factory stock until my Wildcat shows up.
I won’t add a brake until I shoot it a bunch to see if the recoil warrants a brake.
 
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