Time to copy Boomer

I think I have decided on 21'' for sure.


So far I think it is between the standard H&H and the 375 RUM. On one hand, I have 200 rounds of H&H brass and a set of dies already, and can get a barrel already so chambered. On the other hand, I really like what I have heard about the RUM. Im not overly recoil sensitive but I also do not like getting punished for a few hundred FPS. I dont think anything ill be shooting at is going to notice a couple hundred FPS within range of my iron sights. I just don't know if it is worth it to rechamber a barrel, buy new dies and brass, and lose magazine capacity if I am going to load it to H&H velocities anyways. The resale factor is a valid point, allthough I dont think this one will ever be going down the road.

Boomer, how many reloads are you getting with your RUM? How many rounds can you fit in your mag?

How many reloads are everybody else getting with their H&H's?
 
I'm think 6-10 loads per piece of brass, but I don't keep track. I've bought over 600 pieces of brass since I got the rifle, and I think I'm down just below 500 now. There were a few that got chucked from reloading errors, sometimes I'm too stingy with the lube, and the ones that are loaded with small game loads barely count as a firing; those would last indefinitely. I anneal the case necks, but sometimes I wonder if that isn't a waste of time, as the primer pockets open up before the necks fail. Oh well, work hardened necks are detrimental to consistent bullet pull weight anyway.

When I went with the Ultra, my goal was to achieve long barrel .375 H&H velocity from a 20" barrel. That was before I realized that the .375 H&H looses damn little velocity by knocking 4" or 5" off the barrel. Had I known that at the time, I just might of gone with the H&H. Well if I push it I can get a 300 gr bullet going 2700 from the short barrel! But I don't load it that hot, 2600 is fine, and it just might help the brass last a touch longer. Unlike you I was starting from scratch, so I had to buy brass and dies anyway, and that cost would be unnecessary if you stayed with the H&H. All in all I'm happy with my decision. The rifle is as accurate as a varmint rifle, it is quick to bring into action, and it isn't a chore to carry it all day.
 
The rifle is as accurate as a varmint rifle, it is quick to bring into action, and it isn't a chore to carry it all day.


Exactly what I am looking for. I think I have decided on the time tested H&H boys.

Thanks for all the help. I will keep everybody updated on the project.

Simon
 
I was really impressed with CampCook's 375 RUM performence, but i am a tradionlist and I think that the H&H still has lots of life i it!

Sorry, CC!
 
Where are you guys picking up the ghost ring sights for these CZ/602's?

I assume they clamp directly to the dovetail after the scope is removed?

Thanks

P
 
No Question 375 Ultra!


Plenty fast.
Stupidly accurate.
Lots of powder room (unlike the H&H).
Shoot almost any powder you have lots of from IMR 4350 to RL-25.


I don't think I'd go with a short barrel though...Mostly because a factory 602 (with it's 26 inch barrel) is perfectly balanced for offhand shooting....The front sight just hangs on the target like magic!
Not to mention that you live in the kootneys!

I'm just finishing my 375 Ultra and have a perfect JGS reamer....Call Dennis Sorinsen (Guntech here)if your interested.
 
West Kootenay's a rain forest?

It's a forest and a beautiful one at that but you don't get into rain forests until you get near the wet coast.

X-fan the reason for the shorter barrel is due to the thick bush that many of us have to deal with a 26" barreled rifle is awesome when out in the open but yo get into the tight confines of a forest and a shorter barrel is a must for fast accurate target aquisition.

Not saying you can't do it with a longer barreled rifle just saying that a short barreled rifle is amazingly fast in tight quarters.

This is why the 375Ruger/Alaskan rifle combo is a good set up short barrel with 375 H&H ballistics is tough to beat for close in conditions unfortunately take it out into wide open spaces and the rainbow trajectory makes it tough to make longer shots without intemitely knowing its trajectories and the distance of your shot.

The 375RUM cut down to a shorter barrel can still be loaded to reach out which is why I no longer have a 375 H&H chambered rifle and plan on shortening my 26" RUM barrel 2" to 3".

FYI I just bought another 100 375RUM brass yesterday from WSS in Calgary there has been a price increase from $39.99/50 to $59.99/50...
 
This is why the 375Ruger/Alaskan rifle combo is a good set up short barrel with 375 H&H ballistics is tough to beat for close in conditions unfortunately take it out into wide open spaces and the rainbow trajectory makes it tough to make longer shots without intemitely knowing its trajectories and the distance of your shot.

:slap:

:D:D
 
This is why the 375Ruger/Alaskan rifle combo is a good set up short barrel with 375 H&H ballistics is tough to beat for close in conditions unfortunately take it out into wide open spaces and the rainbow trajectory makes it tough to make longer shots without intemitely knowing its trajectories and the distance of your shot.
QUOTE]

Why would you load the 375Ruger down to H&H performance? The velocity from the 20" barrel was surprisingly good @ 2700+ FPS. This gives us the same "rainbow trajectory" of the .30-06 loaded with 180 grain pointed projectiles. How far are you going to shoot those grizzlies from. I get that you misjudged you grizzly distance by ~ 100 yards or so, so I guess it was fortunate that you had that 200 fps gain over the .375 Ruger and the 26" pipe to wring the last bit of velocity out of the .375RUM. Then had to go get a different firearm to potentially finish the job.........WTF are you talking about. lol
ps. I know you were jerking Gate's chain.
 
If highly reliable feeding is your thing go with the H&H.

I am not ####ting when I say my M70 H&H feeds empty cases flawlessly, as fast as you can slide the bolt back and forth. Put a bullet in it an it's even better.
 
If highly reliable feeding is your thing go with the H&H.

I am not s**tting when I say my M70 H&H feeds empty cases flawlessly, as fast as you can slide the bolt back and forth. Put a bullet in it an it's even better.

My 300 WSM feeds empty cases. And WSM's arent' supposed to feed!

Why anyone thinks the feeding of empty cases is important, I don't know, but we all seem to try it.:)

Personally, I think if it won't feed, it's a rifle issue. There are plenty of cartridges with sharper shoulders than a H&H, and they feed fine, if the rifle is operating properly.
 
Ya but yours is not a CRF, if I remember correctly, so that is no great feat. Will it do it even if you slam the bolt as fast as you can? Mine does, it's that good.:)

I have a few CRF including one worked over by Martini and Hagn and none of them feed and empty case even remotely as well as the H&H. I do belive feeding an empty case it is somewhat of a testament to the rounds ability to feed and is relevant.


























Anything you can do I can do better....... I can do anything better than you
 
I'm pretty sure my 300 WSM is a CRF. It says "Winchester Mdl 70 Classic" on it.:)

Never tried it really fast, just open bolt, close it and it feeds. Same for a few other rifles. My Remington 700 223 (PF) won't do it, though.

Feeding empty cases is relevent if you intend to hunt wiht empty cases, I suppose.Bottom line is if the rifle feeds properly with hunitng ammo, in all conditins, empty case feeding doesn't really matter. But it's cool to say "It will feed empty cases!!!" Heck, I've said it too..
 
I have made up dummy rounds with a bullet seated to C.O.L. I intend to use, with no powder or primer.
I believe that is relevant.

I've never even attempted feeding empty cases, and I don't see much point in it.
 
Load an empty round??? Ah okay, why do you do this? i suppose if you were checking the spacing of the shoulder on a re barrel although I would think a gauge is way better??? Checking the ejector\extractor okay, but why else would you do this? What am I missing?
 
I never tried loading empties fast either.

The only time I put an empty in is after I have resized the brass and want to double check that I have my die set up right.
 
My 300 WSM feeds empty cases. And WSM's arent' supposed to feed!

Why anyone thinks the feeding of empty cases is important, I don't know, but we all seem to try it.:)

Personally, I think if it won't feed, it's a rifle issue. There are plenty of cartridges with sharper shoulders than a H&H, and they feed fine, if the rifle is operating properly.

I'm sure that is an off the shelf 300 WSM! :slap:
 
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