Caillou333
New member
- Location
- Bas-saint-laurent, Québec, Canada
Hi! Do you torque you scope base and rings? Can someone recommend me the best bang for the bucks torque wrench screwdriver?
Thank!!
Thank!!
Last edited:
To torque or not to torque that is the question
- Thread starter Caillou333
- Start date
- Location
- SE corner Sk
Do you mean, do you torque your scope rings?
Which torqure wrench do you use?
I use the wheeler fat wrench.
Which torqure wrench do you use?
I use the wheeler fat wrench.
FatCatsDad
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Torque the bases and rings.
Values depend on what bases and rings you have
Manufacturers websites have all the specs available
It's amazing how tight 18 inch pounds actually feels.
Some recommend a drop of blue loctite, some don't.
I use the purple LOC TITE, it's served me well and comes apart without any issues
Values depend on what bases and rings you have
Manufacturers websites have all the specs available
It's amazing how tight 18 inch pounds actually feels.
Some recommend a drop of blue loctite, some don't.
I use the purple LOC TITE, it's served me well and comes apart without any issues
Caillou333
New member
- Location
- Bas-saint-laurent, Québec, Canada
Sorry i have written my question too fast and my primary language is french ��. Yes i'm talking about the bases and the rings screw. I'm wondering if its a plus value to use a torque wrench?
- Location
- SE corner Sk
Yes. With a torque wrench you can get all the screw to a consistant lb ft, won't have a danger of stripping of damaging the threads on the screws.
Unless you want to be posting the next stripped screw thread, use a quality torque wrench graduated in INCH POUNDS, not foot pounds.
Yes its a good practice to use a "good" torque wrench. Over-torqueing the ring screws can over-crush the scope tube and damage it. Ring and base screws can also shear off if over-tightened.
But that said, the problem with many of the inexpensive torque wrenches is the inaccuracy of the setting. Torque wrenches can easily often be in error of +/- 5 inch pounds, or more.
The ring screw torque specs in my experience are usually 18 inch pounds or less, depending on the make. In my opinion, 18 inch pounds is often too much for a light weight scope, especially rimfire scopes. I usually torque at no more than 15 inch pounds, and sometimes as low as 12 inch pounds. Obviously this needs to be monitored for any slippage in high recoil rifles. If that scope is moving, obviously it should be torqued more. But be careful. It does not take much excess toque to dent a lightweight tube.
Regarding base screws, there is huge variation in manufacturer's specs, depending on the design and purpose of use. Heavy duty picatinny base screws for rings designed for high recoiling calibers are often spec'd for 50 inch pounds. But light weight bases meant for a 11mm rimfire rail base may be only 20-25 inch pounds depending on brand. Some of those lightweight scopes can have small diameter screws that would shear off easily with excess torque. For my 11mm rimfire bases I usually do not go past 20 inch pounds.
I had a Wheeler Fat Wrench, but I grew to dislike its sloppy tolerances. I replaced it with a Vortex torque wrench (screw driver) because it has individual increments of adjustability....on its dial. I still however do not trust the increments, especially at the lower toques for light duty screws. I am under no illusions that this $120 torque wrench is accurate in increments of single inch pounds.
I learned about torque wrench accuracy from a senior bicycle mechanic who works on high-end racing bike frames made of the strongest lightest tubes of wonder metal and carbon. He told me that they can easily destroy the bike with a wrong call on the torque, and the tolerances are very fine between not enough, and cracked and broken tubes. He says if you are not spending at least $1K on a torque wrench, you cannot trust it. He said his shop sends these super accurate torque wrenches back to the factory every year to be re-calibrated. They can afford to do that because they sell and tune extremely expensive racing bikes. Based on what these bicycle mechanics know and use, its obvious that our typical shooters torque wrenches are rather open-ended for accuracy.
But that said, the problem with many of the inexpensive torque wrenches is the inaccuracy of the setting. Torque wrenches can easily often be in error of +/- 5 inch pounds, or more.
The ring screw torque specs in my experience are usually 18 inch pounds or less, depending on the make. In my opinion, 18 inch pounds is often too much for a light weight scope, especially rimfire scopes. I usually torque at no more than 15 inch pounds, and sometimes as low as 12 inch pounds. Obviously this needs to be monitored for any slippage in high recoil rifles. If that scope is moving, obviously it should be torqued more. But be careful. It does not take much excess toque to dent a lightweight tube.
Regarding base screws, there is huge variation in manufacturer's specs, depending on the design and purpose of use. Heavy duty picatinny base screws for rings designed for high recoiling calibers are often spec'd for 50 inch pounds. But light weight bases meant for a 11mm rimfire rail base may be only 20-25 inch pounds depending on brand. Some of those lightweight scopes can have small diameter screws that would shear off easily with excess torque. For my 11mm rimfire bases I usually do not go past 20 inch pounds.
I had a Wheeler Fat Wrench, but I grew to dislike its sloppy tolerances. I replaced it with a Vortex torque wrench (screw driver) because it has individual increments of adjustability....on its dial. I still however do not trust the increments, especially at the lower toques for light duty screws. I am under no illusions that this $120 torque wrench is accurate in increments of single inch pounds.
I learned about torque wrench accuracy from a senior bicycle mechanic who works on high-end racing bike frames made of the strongest lightest tubes of wonder metal and carbon. He told me that they can easily destroy the bike with a wrong call on the torque, and the tolerances are very fine between not enough, and cracked and broken tubes. He says if you are not spending at least $1K on a torque wrench, you cannot trust it. He said his shop sends these super accurate torque wrenches back to the factory every year to be re-calibrated. They can afford to do that because they sell and tune extremely expensive racing bikes. Based on what these bicycle mechanics know and use, its obvious that our typical shooters torque wrenches are rather open-ended for accuracy.
Quality torque wrenches can be recalibrated, we used to do our shop ones yearly. And no, you dont need to spend 1k to get a quality torque wrench. Though you can, if you like. - dan
- Location
- Alberta, North America
Yes use a torque wrench + lap your rings - keeps your scope tight and won't damage it. Purple loctite is fine I dont bother for low recoil
I use the Wheeler and always adjust it a bit 'under' whatever the rec torque is . . . Safe than sorry. None of my scopes have come off OR got squashed tubes. Same for the action screws on all my rifles - just a bit under - the scale on the Wheeler is so vague . . .
I have had this for a long time, and the new ones are probably electronic.
These guys are in most towns and not hard to find. They cover most of Canada. They also have equipment on their trucks to check the tool's accuracy and can send them out for service if necessary.
These guys are in most towns and not hard to find. They cover most of Canada. They also have equipment on their trucks to check the tool's accuracy and can send them out for service if necessary.
