Hi everyone and welcome to my review of the new Troy 102
Just to establish context : I bought this rifle from SFRC with my own money, this is not sponsored content in any way shape or form.
Now that it’s done, let’s get on to the review from the top.
The specs :
When the rifle comes it will be in a plain thick cardboard box with some foam and bubble wrap, upper and lower separated, you will also get a manual and record book (to track round count).
This may look “minimalistic” but I prefer to spend money on the firearm, not on the box, and it does the job, not a single ding on her.
So, since the gunnery sergeant demands she gets a name : this is Helen (of Troy
).
When I took her out, she was covered in grease than I couldn’t be sure if it were preserver or lubricant so I took out the brake cleaner and relubed her with some CLP afterwards.
I did note that mine definitely had been tested at the factory since I had carbon in a few places, brass marks and the barrel was really dirty. I always clean my guns when I receive them so it was not a big deal for me.
When you go to assemble her you will notice that she is a very tight, the front hinge has no play whatsoever and the back has a rubber piece to reduce the play you might have in the back. Pins are not difficult to push through though.
Horizontally I do have the tiniest bit of play, less than 0.5 degree and completely unnoticeable once in position.
The bolt carrier assembly is a regular DPMS pattern one with forward assist serration but I would not count on seeing uppers with a FA, it’s more likely that Troy just uses the same bolt carriers in all their AR10.
Unlike the BCLs, Troy properly stacked the gas key.
The bolt head is a little bit more interesting : for the price I expected a completely basic head but we do get dual ejector… and she likes to really throw the cases out.
I did manage to get a contact at Troy to inform me they had no blueprint from BCL, they essentially bought the name to avoid a petty lawsuit and reworked their own designs (it’s not like they never made AR10s before).
I do not know the alloy used but I do not think it really matters, I have shot tens of thousands of rounds and I still haven’t seen an AR type receiver failing because it was made of 6061 instead of 7075 aluminium
The upper follows DPMS standard pattern (handguard and threading) as well and at the time I am writing this review I do not know if the upper can be interchanged with a BCL 102 but I highly doubt it since at least the rear pin does not seem to line up from pictures.
There are a few curves that were not cut as cleanly as the rest of the rifle. Mine is under the 300 rifles made mark, maybe others have had adjustments.
The barrel nut is completely different from BCM so I do not expect any issues or breakage on that front.
The flash hider is a copy of what is on the M110, the SR25 adopted by the US Army… it’s a flash hider, it works.
The handguard is a 15” M-lok rail, perfectly serviceable but I had wished for a QD sling attachment point. A small issue I found is that it does not perfectly line up with the upper : there is a small 0.5mm height difference. I doubt this would be an issue for hunting or competition but I still noticed it.
Some of the cuts also don’t quite line up with the lower and considering the lower is the part to really have any differences with a “real” AR10, I suspect the guys at Troy pull out the CAD models for their normal AR10 and just made a small modification to relocate the rear pin hole on the upper, without changing the rest of the cuts to line up with the lower.
But that’s only my guess.
Beside the rear pin hole location, everything is standard AR10, from the mag catch to trigger to safety.
And since we’re on it, let me tell you : safety selector and trigger are really stiff !
The safety selector is getting a tad bit softer during testing but it’s still ridiculously hard, I’m talking putting two to three times more strength than on my MP15 (unmodified lower).
Same thing on the trigger, we’re talking a solid 6 or 7 pound trigger which, while it is not unusual for milspec trigger, is still a lot harder than my AR15.
When I do make upgrades I’m definitely switching the trigger !
Now let’s get to the range !
I took a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x24 from my closet but other than that the rifle remained stock.
So how does it shoot ?
Well, I took a variety of ammo to test after zero and breaking barrel in (25 rounds cleaning after each, then 25 rounds cleaning every 5 rounds) in 150 and 168 gr from Federal and Hornady.
She is soft and Very capable… but that bloody trigger will mess you up fast.
All tests done at 100 meters
First group I shot, well rested since I had allowed the gun to cool off, with basic 150gr Remington FMJ, she groups a hair under an inch ! Off to a very good start.
But then remember what I said about the hard trigger ? Well she started to tire me and I kept flinching.
Federal Powershock was still decent if you look at the groups of two, which I think are the representative ones
Hornady Match gave similar results with a bit over an inch and a flyer.
Hornady Black was pretty nice, also a bit over an inch.
Finally the superformance gives a 3-shot of under an inch with a pair of flyers.
One BIG issue I had though : while I had no issue with the provided 5 round mag, when using Pmag I kept having an issue of cartridge not going in properly and instead getting the bullet stuck in locking recess, the bolt head sometimes severely deforming the case.
I thought maybe the gun was a undergassed at first, but after it happened 3 or 4 times I compared the magazines and realized the Pmag does not give as much clearance to the cartridge, meaning a much steeper angle when pushed out, resulting in the failure to feed.
So Pmag users like me will have to modify them a bit… at least mags always drop free.
For some reason once at home when I test with fake rounds (and manually cycling the bolt as hard as I can) with a captive buffer spring I can't reproduce that issue... I'll try again once my upgrades are done.
In conclusion :
I think this has the potential to be an excellent rifle and can be used perfectly fine just out of the box for hunting (follow up shots are not difficult to achieve) or plinking. If your objective is to have it as a competition or precision rifle you will probably do it anyway but I consider this particular use absolutely requires to switch out the trigger assembly for something lighter
In the following weeks I’m going to do some work on it to change the trigger, adjustable gas block, muzzle brake and captive buffer spring to see if I can improve the accuracy (the trigger will almost certainly help).
If I forgot something, just ask and I I'll have a look.
Cheers !
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Updates !
So, Helene has received some elective surgery and I thought I would share some of the results, some installation made by DanteSport in Montreal (still not sponsored content), the objective was to turn the rifle into something with lighter recoil for both hunting and competition (because spinners need to die) :
Obviously some furniture to give better handling (A2 style grips are too small for me, XL glove size), here Magpul K2+ Grip and M-Lok forward grip... and since some liked the 40K stuff, in front of the display !
Strangely enough switching the grip was enough to make the selector softer and behave normally, maybe it got caught on something during initial assembly.
So, first things first, VG6 .308 muzzle brake and compensator from CTC Suplies, that thing works wonders to reduce the recoil, the muzzle does not climb whatsoever. Definitely very good value.
Next, a Superlative Arms Bleed off adjustable AR15 gaz block from Maple Ridge Armoury, the 0.750" kind, to reduce the amount of gaz and recoil, here tuned just right to cycle without FTE or FTF, fully compatible, 0 issues. I will very probably need to tune it up during winter though.
Inside a few changes as well, first a Geissele 2 Stage Trigger G2S (4.5 lbs) from Lockhart Tactical. I chose this specifically because I prefer military style triggers and this one is supposed to be made for AR10 as well. I saw a number of "competition triggers" being sometimes too weak to reliably ignite primers on 5.56 so I went for a well known one. Install was easy, dimensions identical to normal AR10.
The sub MOA accuracy I got during my testing has become far easier to achieve and though some of my groups were a bit bigger, I'm confident most people with good fundamentals can achieve the same.
Finally in the back something less common (and yes I know I could remove the buffer detent but the castle nut is stacked) : Armaspec SRS Stealth Recoil Spring for .308 AR / AR10 / BCL-102 / Stag-10 from CTC supplies. That thing is a captive buffer system like the JP that Karl and Ian from InRangeTV used in their WWSD AR15s but it does thing a bit differently as there is technically no impact : towards the ends, a secondary spring is compressed to stop the travel of the bolt, which reduces the recoil even further, something the JP does not do, and for half the price (that was the main thing).
Interestingly enough, once I switched the original buffer and spring my feeding problems almost completely stopped so I am guessing maybe the springs were somehow at fault, the SRS in its first stage (before the secondary spring begins its actions) is noticeably softer, and I stopped having issues with Pmags.
So all in, very pleased how it turned out, recoil is barely higher than my non-compensated AR15 and ready for hunting season. I tempted to switch finish making it fully ambi but for now it's perfectly fine. In the future I want to try getting a pencil profile 5R barrel for it to reduce the weight a bit.
Cheers !
Just to establish context : I bought this rifle from SFRC with my own money, this is not sponsored content in any way shape or form.
Now that it’s done, let’s get on to the review from the top.
The specs :
- Caliber : 308 Winchester / 7.62x51
- Barrel : 20” - 1:10 twist 4 grooves - medium contour - .750” gas block - 5/8x24 thread - rifle length port
- Weight : 4.6 kg - 10.14 lbs unloaded
- 4 position adjustable stock, milspec tube
When the rifle comes it will be in a plain thick cardboard box with some foam and bubble wrap, upper and lower separated, you will also get a manual and record book (to track round count).
This may look “minimalistic” but I prefer to spend money on the firearm, not on the box, and it does the job, not a single ding on her.
So, since the gunnery sergeant demands she gets a name : this is Helen (of Troy
).
When I took her out, she was covered in grease than I couldn’t be sure if it were preserver or lubricant so I took out the brake cleaner and relubed her with some CLP afterwards.
I did note that mine definitely had been tested at the factory since I had carbon in a few places, brass marks and the barrel was really dirty. I always clean my guns when I receive them so it was not a big deal for me.
When you go to assemble her you will notice that she is a very tight, the front hinge has no play whatsoever and the back has a rubber piece to reduce the play you might have in the back. Pins are not difficult to push through though.
Horizontally I do have the tiniest bit of play, less than 0.5 degree and completely unnoticeable once in position.
The bolt carrier assembly is a regular DPMS pattern one with forward assist serration but I would not count on seeing uppers with a FA, it’s more likely that Troy just uses the same bolt carriers in all their AR10.
Unlike the BCLs, Troy properly stacked the gas key.
The bolt head is a little bit more interesting : for the price I expected a completely basic head but we do get dual ejector… and she likes to really throw the cases out.
I did manage to get a contact at Troy to inform me they had no blueprint from BCL, they essentially bought the name to avoid a petty lawsuit and reworked their own designs (it’s not like they never made AR10s before).
I do not know the alloy used but I do not think it really matters, I have shot tens of thousands of rounds and I still haven’t seen an AR type receiver failing because it was made of 6061 instead of 7075 aluminium
The upper follows DPMS standard pattern (handguard and threading) as well and at the time I am writing this review I do not know if the upper can be interchanged with a BCL 102 but I highly doubt it since at least the rear pin does not seem to line up from pictures.
There are a few curves that were not cut as cleanly as the rest of the rifle. Mine is under the 300 rifles made mark, maybe others have had adjustments.
The barrel nut is completely different from BCM so I do not expect any issues or breakage on that front.
The flash hider is a copy of what is on the M110, the SR25 adopted by the US Army… it’s a flash hider, it works.
The handguard is a 15” M-lok rail, perfectly serviceable but I had wished for a QD sling attachment point. A small issue I found is that it does not perfectly line up with the upper : there is a small 0.5mm height difference. I doubt this would be an issue for hunting or competition but I still noticed it.
Some of the cuts also don’t quite line up with the lower and considering the lower is the part to really have any differences with a “real” AR10, I suspect the guys at Troy pull out the CAD models for their normal AR10 and just made a small modification to relocate the rear pin hole on the upper, without changing the rest of the cuts to line up with the lower.
But that’s only my guess.
Beside the rear pin hole location, everything is standard AR10, from the mag catch to trigger to safety.
And since we’re on it, let me tell you : safety selector and trigger are really stiff !
The safety selector is getting a tad bit softer during testing but it’s still ridiculously hard, I’m talking putting two to three times more strength than on my MP15 (unmodified lower).
Same thing on the trigger, we’re talking a solid 6 or 7 pound trigger which, while it is not unusual for milspec trigger, is still a lot harder than my AR15.
When I do make upgrades I’m definitely switching the trigger !
Now let’s get to the range !
I took a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x24 from my closet but other than that the rifle remained stock.
So how does it shoot ?
Well, I took a variety of ammo to test after zero and breaking barrel in (25 rounds cleaning after each, then 25 rounds cleaning every 5 rounds) in 150 and 168 gr from Federal and Hornady.
She is soft and Very capable… but that bloody trigger will mess you up fast.
All tests done at 100 meters
First group I shot, well rested since I had allowed the gun to cool off, with basic 150gr Remington FMJ, she groups a hair under an inch ! Off to a very good start.
But then remember what I said about the hard trigger ? Well she started to tire me and I kept flinching.
Federal Powershock was still decent if you look at the groups of two, which I think are the representative ones
Hornady Match gave similar results with a bit over an inch and a flyer.
Hornady Black was pretty nice, also a bit over an inch.
Finally the superformance gives a 3-shot of under an inch with a pair of flyers.
One BIG issue I had though : while I had no issue with the provided 5 round mag, when using Pmag I kept having an issue of cartridge not going in properly and instead getting the bullet stuck in locking recess, the bolt head sometimes severely deforming the case.
I thought maybe the gun was a undergassed at first, but after it happened 3 or 4 times I compared the magazines and realized the Pmag does not give as much clearance to the cartridge, meaning a much steeper angle when pushed out, resulting in the failure to feed.
So Pmag users like me will have to modify them a bit… at least mags always drop free.
For some reason once at home when I test with fake rounds (and manually cycling the bolt as hard as I can) with a captive buffer spring I can't reproduce that issue... I'll try again once my upgrades are done.
In conclusion :
I think this has the potential to be an excellent rifle and can be used perfectly fine just out of the box for hunting (follow up shots are not difficult to achieve) or plinking. If your objective is to have it as a competition or precision rifle you will probably do it anyway but I consider this particular use absolutely requires to switch out the trigger assembly for something lighter
In the following weeks I’m going to do some work on it to change the trigger, adjustable gas block, muzzle brake and captive buffer spring to see if I can improve the accuracy (the trigger will almost certainly help).
If I forgot something, just ask and I I'll have a look.
Cheers !
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Updates !
So, Helene has received some elective surgery and I thought I would share some of the results, some installation made by DanteSport in Montreal (still not sponsored content), the objective was to turn the rifle into something with lighter recoil for both hunting and competition (because spinners need to die) :
Obviously some furniture to give better handling (A2 style grips are too small for me, XL glove size), here Magpul K2+ Grip and M-Lok forward grip... and since some liked the 40K stuff, in front of the display !
Strangely enough switching the grip was enough to make the selector softer and behave normally, maybe it got caught on something during initial assembly.
So, first things first, VG6 .308 muzzle brake and compensator from CTC Suplies, that thing works wonders to reduce the recoil, the muzzle does not climb whatsoever. Definitely very good value.
Next, a Superlative Arms Bleed off adjustable AR15 gaz block from Maple Ridge Armoury, the 0.750" kind, to reduce the amount of gaz and recoil, here tuned just right to cycle without FTE or FTF, fully compatible, 0 issues. I will very probably need to tune it up during winter though.
Inside a few changes as well, first a Geissele 2 Stage Trigger G2S (4.5 lbs) from Lockhart Tactical. I chose this specifically because I prefer military style triggers and this one is supposed to be made for AR10 as well. I saw a number of "competition triggers" being sometimes too weak to reliably ignite primers on 5.56 so I went for a well known one. Install was easy, dimensions identical to normal AR10.
The sub MOA accuracy I got during my testing has become far easier to achieve and though some of my groups were a bit bigger, I'm confident most people with good fundamentals can achieve the same.
Finally in the back something less common (and yes I know I could remove the buffer detent but the castle nut is stacked) : Armaspec SRS Stealth Recoil Spring for .308 AR / AR10 / BCL-102 / Stag-10 from CTC supplies. That thing is a captive buffer system like the JP that Karl and Ian from InRangeTV used in their WWSD AR15s but it does thing a bit differently as there is technically no impact : towards the ends, a secondary spring is compressed to stop the travel of the bolt, which reduces the recoil even further, something the JP does not do, and for half the price (that was the main thing).
Interestingly enough, once I switched the original buffer and spring my feeding problems almost completely stopped so I am guessing maybe the springs were somehow at fault, the SRS in its first stage (before the secondary spring begins its actions) is noticeably softer, and I stopped having issues with Pmags.
So all in, very pleased how it turned out, recoil is barely higher than my non-compensated AR15 and ready for hunting season. I tempted to switch finish making it fully ambi but for now it's perfectly fine. In the future I want to try getting a pencil profile 5R barrel for it to reduce the weight a bit.
Cheers !
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