TUNG OIL
- Thread starter Boom-Boom
- Start date
gunasauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Bought mine at Walmart.....should be avail at most hardware stores too...
beretta boy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Orillia, Ontario
Almost every paint & hardware store.
What's the difference betwen true oil and tung oil?
I'd like to see the difference in look.
I've seen some stocks that look as if they have a plastic shell and it looks beautiful!
for example would this be something that could be achieved with either of the products?
I'd like to see the difference in look.
I've seen some stocks that look as if they have a plastic shell and it looks beautiful!
for example would this be something that could be achieved with either of the products?
True oil is not spelled that way. It is a commercial gun stock finish called Tru-Oil. Basically an oil type of varnish. It can be built up and polished to look like the finish in your picture, but so can the various interior/exterior varathane finishes.
Tung oil is a commercial wood finish and also has additives to assist in drying and hardening. I have not built a finish up with it as your picture shows. It usually is left a bit "thinner" and made to look more like a traditional oil type finish.
Tung oil is a commercial wood finish and also has additives to assist in drying and hardening. I have not built a finish up with it as your picture shows. It usually is left a bit "thinner" and made to look more like a traditional oil type finish.
My mistake. That's the product I was reffering to.
These pictures were nabbed from a fellow in the states who specializes in painting stocks.
His work is very good to say the least.
Mind you, they carry a hefty price tag.
While his methods of making those patterns are kept secret I would like to know what kind of product gives that glow.
He is using quality paints of more than one colour and finishing with a clear coat I am sure. He is also quite experienced and that has a lot to do with the finished product.
You should see what your local quality auto paint guy can do for you. It isn't as easy at it sounds.
You can experiment with any spray paint can of paint on any wood stock. It works best if the stock is sealed, not bare wood.
You should see what your local quality auto paint guy can do for you. It isn't as easy at it sounds.
You can experiment with any spray paint can of paint on any wood stock. It works best if the stock is sealed, not bare wood.
try an auto body supply store. - dan
Tru-oil is a Birchwood Casey brand name. It's a blend of linseed and other natural oils with dryers and hardeners in it.
Tung oil comes from the dried and pressed fruit of the tung tree. It was originally used to waterproof the masts of Chinese boats. It penetrates wood to about 1/4" and gives a nice satin sheen when rubbed in. More rubbing and it'll shine more. It waterproofs the wood, brings out the grain and darkens the wood slightly. Once it's on, there's no going back though. Stain can be sanded off, but the oil stays put and you cannot re-stain.
There are also Tung Oil Finishes(Minwax makes one) made that are not pure tung oil. They have the hardeners etc in them to speed drying. They're not the same as pure tung oil. They work just as well, but it's not the same.
Both can be found in the paint section of any hardware store. Just be sure of which one you want. Not cheap either. About $15 a litre last time I bought some. A little goes a long way though.
None of those gaudy stocks have oil finishes. Looks like polyurethane(also found in the paint section) on paint to me. (That first one is a nice piece of wood and should have a hand rubbed oil finish, not plastic, if you ask me.) Scratch one and you'll have to refinish the whole thing. Scratch an oil finish and you just rub in more oil.
Tung oil comes from the dried and pressed fruit of the tung tree. It was originally used to waterproof the masts of Chinese boats. It penetrates wood to about 1/4" and gives a nice satin sheen when rubbed in. More rubbing and it'll shine more. It waterproofs the wood, brings out the grain and darkens the wood slightly. Once it's on, there's no going back though. Stain can be sanded off, but the oil stays put and you cannot re-stain.
There are also Tung Oil Finishes(Minwax makes one) made that are not pure tung oil. They have the hardeners etc in them to speed drying. They're not the same as pure tung oil. They work just as well, but it's not the same.
Both can be found in the paint section of any hardware store. Just be sure of which one you want. Not cheap either. About $15 a litre last time I bought some. A little goes a long way though.
None of those gaudy stocks have oil finishes. Looks like polyurethane(also found in the paint section) on paint to me. (That first one is a nice piece of wood and should have a hand rubbed oil finish, not plastic, if you ask me.) Scratch one and you'll have to refinish the whole thing. Scratch an oil finish and you just rub in more oil.
Yeah,
Those stock are definitely air-brushed paint jobs. Looks like he's using those new chromatic autobody paints on a couple. Multiple layers of clear coat. First time such a stock touches the bench at the range or another rifle in your safe, its scratched and/or dented. Purty' to look at, but not practical if you ever want to use your rifle.
A well rubbed tung oil finished stock is a true thing of beauty. Rubbing and buffing will make it glow and seem almost alive again. Much prefer them to the pimp stocks above, but hey? Whatever floats your boat! Only guy you have to please is yourself!
Those stock are definitely air-brushed paint jobs. Looks like he's using those new chromatic autobody paints on a couple. Multiple layers of clear coat. First time such a stock touches the bench at the range or another rifle in your safe, its scratched and/or dented. Purty' to look at, but not practical if you ever want to use your rifle.
A well rubbed tung oil finished stock is a true thing of beauty. Rubbing and buffing will make it glow and seem almost alive again. Much prefer them to the pimp stocks above, but hey? Whatever floats your boat! Only guy you have to please is yourself!
sunray said:
I just stripped a tung oiled stock yesterday with Circa 1850 stripper. It had 4 coats of tung oil and then a coat of beeswax/oil paste rubbed in to finish it and the Circa 1850 took all of the oil out easily. I have also used paint thinner to remove BLO out of Lee Enfield stocks for refinishing.
Cheers
sunray said:
This is a common impression, but it is incorrect. While Tung Oil gives a very lovely finish to wood, it does not waterproof the wood.
Ask any professional stockmaker, or anyone who has had one in a wet or damp climate.
It does make walnut almost glow, however, and really accents any figure in the wood. I have seen some stocks that had no apparent figure end up looking just beautiful, and it is relatively easy to use.
Even I can do it. :wink:
Ted
- Location
- Newfoundland
[quote="Why not
This is a common impression, but it is incorrect. While Tung Oil gives a very lovely finish to wood, it does not waterproof the wood.
[/quote]
Can someone else pipe in here . I have a Boyds laminate that I am about to dip in Tung Oil and as you may know here in Newfoundland we are not known for our endless sunny dry weather. It does tend to get damp,a little. I was hoping that using the oil method would give me a good waterproof finish !!!
This is a common impression, but it is incorrect. While Tung Oil gives a very lovely finish to wood, it does not waterproof the wood.
[/quote]
Can someone else pipe in here . I have a Boyds laminate that I am about to dip in Tung Oil and as you may know here in Newfoundland we are not known for our endless sunny dry weather. It does tend to get damp,a little. I was hoping that using the oil method would give me a good waterproof finish !!!
1899 said:
Kristian,
That is exactly how I do it, even as many as 25 coats over a period of a year. Learned that from a pro stock maker, but it still will not be waterproof. Water resistant yes, but prolonged exposure to rain or snow and you will get water stains under the finish. Cured Tung Oil is porous to water.
Don't get me wrong, I love the Tung Oil finished stocks. The more coats you apply the richer the finish becomes, however they are not waterproof.
Ted
shortround said:
Shortround,
Your laminate stock will be fine with Tung Oil. The laminate is already essentially waterproof because the laminates are impregnated with epoxy resins in the bonding process.
You will ahve to be careful that you put very little oil on each time for the same reason. The epoxy will not allow the oil to soak in, and it will get sticky very quickly if you don't rub it off well before settting it aside to dry.
As Kristian has already said, it is absolutely necesssary that you allow it to dry completely hard, between coats. I usually do one coat a week, at the most.
Ted
