Turknelli M4 is HERE AT LAST!!!! TAC 12 BY Trigger wholesale!!!!

No manual provided with these.

-Pull the trigger group (check your shell lift tab while your in there)

-Remove adjustable butt stock depressing the release then pull near the pin / forward part of release while pulling back to remove like some AR stocks.

-Set that gun in either a vice or between your knees and twist, knock, hammer that pistol grip counter clockwise. Dont hammer... Mine was just on extremely well.

-That pistol grip has a threaded nut inside that will hold in on the buffer and not allow you to remove it without removing the buffer tube.

-Take a crescent wrench or a 27mm and crack the buffer tube retaining nut. Now I backed the nut towards the pistol grip, took a silver sharpie and colored an *indicator ring* around the base of reciver/threads to show me how far the recoil assembly was in the receiver. COUNT THE THREADS AND TAKE PICTURES.. YOU will loose all your sharpie marks after a few min of spinning the firearm around.

- My buffer tube was threaded in 10 turns and had a locking compound, *Hint* if yours having troubles turning the buffer out, slide the factory adjustable stock on and use it for leverage to turn.

-Spin the recoil system all the way out of the shotgun

-Now thread the 27mm nut all the way forward/off the buffer

-pull off the pistol grip

**This is where you use your pics and markings to confirm how far the buffer system was in the receiver**

-Spin the 27mm nut back on the buffer, I placed mine just past the 10 thread so I had a very good idea of where I had removed this from factory position.

-Once buffer assembly threaded in and your at right height tighten the 27mm nut.

-Slide the stock on, mine was tight tight.. Not a bad thing.. Making sure to take note of the stock's retaining block and its "top" marking. Keep that up!

-When threading in the supplied bolt it felt like it barely grabbed the buffer assembly. Just go slow with tightening it down. I did a few threads in and out as if I was dealing with a stripped nut until I was comfortable and 100% sure it was good.

**THE FIELD STOCK is not perfect, I had to remove it once, pull the trigger group, back off the stock and install trigger group prior as the stock wouldnt allow for trigger group installation. Purely alignment issue that was quickly resolved.







Things that happened and some photos..

After I removed the adjustable stock, the 27mm nut I went to back the pistol grip off of the stock. After a few rotations I ran into an resistance that felt familiar. I proceeded by turning the pistol grip clock wise (buffer towards body) as it was when you first back it off and loose to expose the threads. I may be the cause of this if I didn't get enough gunk out of the threads prior. Anyways, the threads were starting to cross thread/strip around the 5th thread so I took a small pick and some brake clean and a very light *wrist turn* with a 3m pad in my hands while gripping the buffer tube and the threaded area.


Cleaned up a lil more..
 
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I did not do this alone, appreciate it tho! Thanks to the forum and the quoted members.

NeonGreen said:
just installed the fixed stock, some tips for anyone who wants to install one on their turknelli

first off, the turks made it way harder than it needed to be, way harder than the benelli, i don't know why they didn't just copy the stock like they did everything else, but moving on...

once you verify the gun is unloaded, clear and safe

dissemble it, it makes life a whole lot easier, remove the trigger group specifically

**Can-Down informed me if you pull the adjustment lever down by hand further than it cams when you depress the lever you can slide it off the tube that way, i had tried pulling it the other way like an ar-15 stock and it didn't work and i legit never thought of using his method so try his way first and if it doesn't work for whatever reason try the method i used like a dingus below

on your telescoping stock, look at the lever you squeeze to adjust the stock, see that tiny rollpin that holds the plunger spring in? drift that out, the spring underneath is under a little bit of tension so wear safety glasses and don't let that spring fly across the room

once the spring comes out squeeze the lever and pull the stock back and off the gun


next is the pistol grip, rotate the grip and screw it off. it will remain trapped on the recoil buffer tube but with it slid back out of the way you will see a silver hex nut. you will need a 27mm wrench to loosen it, BEFORE YOU DO I RECOMMEND PUTTING A WITNESS MARK ON THE THREADS, THE NUT, AND THE RECEIVER TO KNOW HOW DEEP EVERYTHING WAS THREADED IN FOR REASSEMBLY, I USED A SHARPIE PAINT MARKER

once loose you can then un thread the entire recoil buffer tube off of the receiver. once off, thread the hex nut the opposite direction you did before and remove it straight off the tube. then slide your pistol grip back to the threads and begin threading it back on as if you were tightening it, keep going and going, it will take a bit but eventually it will thread right off the tube

replace the hex nut on the tube and thread the tube back into the receiver, tighten everything back down to where it was before you disassembled it, hopefully you put witness marks on there. make sure the track with the retaining detent for the telescoping function is clocked correctly (if your front and rear sight are parallel with the sky your detent portion of the tube should be facing the floor. i know this is obvious to 99% of you but remember car manuals have warnings that cruise control is not auto pilot for a reason

now slide your fixed stock onto the gun. if you haven't removed the buttplate yet you unscrew the sling swivel and the buttplate pivots off from bottom to top. you may have your spacer, washer, bolt and hex key inside it.

once the fixed stock is seated place the black plastic spacer inside the stock. there will be a side that says "top" on it, that is the side you want facing out towards you. again with your sights parallel to the sky you want the word "top" at the 6 oclock position

now put your bolt through the washer, then put it through the slot in the black plastic spacer, make sure your screw is seated properly in the threads and tighten. with mine there was absolutely no room for the bolt to engage the threads with the washer. i tried it without the washer but i didn't feel comfortable not having the washer there to distribute the force so i removed the spacer and touched the area of the spacer the washer contacts to the belt sander, a little bit at a time. you might not have to do this but these stocks, although decent outside, are crude inside and may require fitting

once everything is threaded together replace the buttplate, remember it hooks in at the top then pivots in at the bottom, then screw in the sling swivel to secure it and you are done. now reassemble the gun, the trigger guard may take a bit of fiddling, i found it didn't go back in as smoothly as it did with the pistol grip but it did go in without modification or anything

the length of pull on the fixed stock is identical to the telescoping stock on its most extended position

the area where the trigger group sits into the stock may be a little rough, a few light passes with an emery board or sand paper will clean it up

the stock feels nice, its fairly attractive, im not crazy about the little squares for the grip section but they feel pretty good and i think it would make a great candidate for stippling. im not sure if i like it more or less than the telescoping stock but we'll see how it feels under recoil



i hope this helps someone out
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I am also going to "bump" this up for future reference. When you have the trigger group out your right there. Inspect it. Mine looks to be one that was attended to at factory, not the cleanest but you know what to do.




PinaKaleada said:
The problem is that the shell lift tab which engages the bolt carrier notch has an angle that is too gentle, and it will get pushed down too easily during cycling. When this tab slips down before the lift has successfully lifted up the shell, it will jam. What you need to do is file/shave the part to a more “straight” angle for it to activate the lift more reliably. Remove where the red line touches, it will lift reliably.

All you’re doing here is to prevent the slope from contacting the bolt carrier, and instead allow the top corner to interact DEEP into the bolt carrier notch, which provides a more positive “grab”. This will allow the lift to complete its cycle before this part eventually disengages.

WARNING : Only a very small amount of material removal is needed for the corner to engage, so go very slow, also polish and lubricate.

TZLKDT0.jpg
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badboybeeson said:
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These are just to keep in mind when purchasing.


Bonjour43ma said:
So we know of the following that's specific to the Sulun Tac12:

1. Some have misaligned front sights that were not brazed on properly

2. Some have loosened mag tube nut that was not locktite/tightened

3. Some have the shell lift tab too rounded and not filed down

4. Some have the pistol grip not all the way turned in and tightened

5. One person had the pistol o-rings all mangled
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F.Y.I.

SLANTO said:
I can confirm that that limbsaver 10403 does fit the stock and the mounting holes line up. I added a bit of epoxy on mine to ensure a nice solid fit.
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sky52 said:
To convert the Tac 12 to use the Beneli M4 stock:
1049680- recoil tube assembly.
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Few random photos.

https://postimages.org/









Bushnell firststrike 2.0 is in the mail.

TVW

*** I have created a thread containing the above info to prevent clutter. If you need to delete the last two posts please leave a copy of this link somewhere :) **

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...ield-stock-install-Useful-related-information
 
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Any follow-up reviews on these, or any sort of reports from guys that have put many shells through them?

Is the verdict in yet?


Just saw a bunch of m4's come up for sale. Is it worth the $2500 ala. buy once cry once?
 
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