UPDATE: From the horses mouth on indian made muskets *VIDEO/PICS ON PAGE 10*

Musketfire said:
Do you use a model rocket igniter or some such?? your process seems superior to mine albeit more labor intensive "taking the barrel off and electric ignition" though the benefits of doing it your way has obvious merits.

Cheers!
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Having the barrel removed, will preserve your stock for one thing - particularly if you've carved your own stock, there's nothing worse than watching hours of carving get broken or splintered.

On thin-wristed stocks (or finely shaped stocks) even if the barrel is fine under proof, the extra strain can damage the wood. For example, the tang can be driven into the stock resulting in cracks, etc. I've made that mistake once - not under proof, just very stiff loads; but same process.
 
My concern is risk of damage to the stock because of increased recoil.
I use two wire flex with a twist of fine steel wool across the ends. Use a 9v battery at other end; steel wool will turn red hot. If it is a flint barrel, I just put a little heap of powder over the touch hole. If percussion, I make a little paper cone taped in place surounding the nipple, and fill that with powder.

If I want to testfire a complete gun, I use sandbags behind, below and on top of the gun, pulling the trigger with a lanyard.
 
When I have proven a gun, I tied it to a rubber car tire to avoid stock damage. Occasionally I have proven a barrel only and in that case duct taped it to a 2x4 with a solidly fastend wood block behind the breach end and used a small amount of powder with a piece of cannon fuse when dealing with a flintlock barrel.

cheers mooncoon
 
Yeah I was just planning to use some of my visco fuse when mine arrives and butting it up against something that gives a bit, an old tire would be good I think, thanks mooncoon.

I'll wait until it arrives though, perhaps I will remove the barrel from the stock just in case, don't know yet.
 
Loyalist arms contacted me today, said they shipped out my musket. They only took a week despite saying it could take up to three weeks. Good service so far, I'll keep you all posted when it gets here.
 
What arm did you send for?

The longland bess they sell has a great lock on it.

While you are waiting for your musket you should send for some black English flints, track of the wolf sells good ones.
 
I bought the Early model British Sea service musket in .76 cal. its coming with brass hardware.

I like it because its shorter and looks a little more plain, not so fancy.
 
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Tyockell18 said:
I bought the Early model British Sea service musket in .76 cal. its coming with brass hardware.

I like it because its shorter and looks a little more plain, not so fancy.
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I like the look of the lock without the bridaled frizzen, very early period. The stock design leaves you ALOT of material you can alter to personalize it.

Great looking musket!
 
Musketfire said:
I like the look of the lock without the bridaled frizzen, very early period. The stock design leaves you ALOT of material you can alter to personalize it.

Great looking musket!
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Thanks, yeah I'm really excited to play around with it, they also told me today that it sparks really well. Apparently their guns often tend to ignite charges faster than the italian made muskets, lock geometry perhaps?.

By the way guys they will be having another shipment of american chert flints comming in soon as well as they are working on a supplier for roundballs, they still have english flints available for the time being.

I am on their waiting list so when they become available I will let you guys know in this thread.
 
Awesome thanks! Out of curiosity, does Loyalist Arms offer a proofing service, or do you have to do it yourself? I for one would feel more comfortable knowing it was proofed before I get the firearm. All in all though, I think my smoothbore flinter purchase will be from Loyalist Arms (due to this post)!
 
They use to proof their guns but no longer do so generally because of no official proof house in Canada apparently so stamping it would mean nothing. They supply you with a roundball, loading/proofing data and a fuse to proof yourself. They recommend to use 150GR of FFg for the proof load in their large bores.

Blair stated on the phone that if really needed be, they could send it to one of their facilities in Ontario to be proofed at extra cost.

It states to use 75-80GR max of FFg for firing round balls.

WARRANTY:
The firearms you have purchased has a limited warranty, for a period of 6 months,(from time of purchase), free replacement and labor on ALL MOVING PARTS.
All SPRINGS are warrantied for 1 year from the time of purchase.
Upon receipt of delivery of items, you can examine and decide if the product is suitable or not.
You have 15 days upon receipt of the item, to examine said items for suitability, and inform us immediately, before this period expires.
 
Tyockell18 said:
They use to proof their guns but no longer do so generally because of no official proof house in Canada apparently so stamping it would mean nothing. They supply you with a roundball, loading/proofing data and a fuse to proof yourself. They recommend to use 150GR of FFg for the proof load in their large bores.

Blair stated on the phone that if really needed be, they could send it to one of their facilities in Ontario to be proofed at extra cost.

It states to use 75-80GR max of FFg for firing round balls.

WARRANTY:
The firearms you have purchased has a limited warranty, for a period of 6 months,(from time of purchase), free replacement and labor on ALL MOVING PARTS.
All SPRINGS are warrantied for 1 year from the time of purchase.
Upon receipt of delivery of items, you can examine and decide if the product is suitable or not.
You have 15 days upon receipt of the item, to examine said items for suitability, and inform us immediately, before this period expires.
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Thanks for the info!
 
Baker rifle ramrod question

Help. The ball end (not the mushroom palm end) has a 10x32 bolt on the end.
Wouldn't that bolt damage/deform a lead ball when ramming a patched ball home?
With paper cartridges, the ball simply drops down but rifles use patches and need to be rammed.
There has to be thread there so that a ball puller and mops can be used.
Is there something that is supposed to cover the threaded bolt?
Looks like this:
ramrod-end.jpg


thanks, Ted
 
Tedscanoe said:
Help. The ball end (not the mushroom palm end) has a 10x32 bolt on the end.
Wouldn't that bolt damage/deform a lead ball when ramming a patched ball home?
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the end of the rod that comes in contact with the ball should be expanded and a little under bore diameter. what you describe as the palm end sounds like it is the end that should be going down the barrel. If not then there needs to be a mushroom or tulip shaped end screwed on to the thread that you have displayed. You also should not be pushing straight down on the rod but rather hold the rod about 6 or 8" above the muzzle and push the ball down in a series of steps. It is not inconceivable that you could bend a metal rod pushing it all the way from one end if you had a tight ball. A wooden rod under such circumstances can break and if your hand were too far above the muzzle, you would or can drive the broken end into your hand

cheers mooncoon
 
What does the other end of the rod look like ? I assume it is mushroom shaped like mooncoon said.

That end is for cleaning attachments.

Cheers, McLean
 
Tedscanoe said:
Help. The ball end (not the mushroom palm end) has a 10x32 bolt on the end.
Wouldn't that bolt damage/deform a lead ball when ramming a patched ball home?
With paper cartridges, the ball simply drops down but rifles use patches and need to be rammed.
There has to be thread there so that a ball puller and mops can be used.
Is there something that is supposed to cover the threaded bolt?
Looks like this:
ramrod-end.jpg


thanks, Ted
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Hi Ted I recently traded for a indian baker that has a rifled colrain barrel on it, the ramrod end is the same as yours, its threaded to use cleaning jags and what not. Easy to fix that if you want to.

Use the other side for ramming, until your comfortable enough to just use it in the straight pull then ram style.

I dont think you will have to worry too much about deforming the ball during loading enough to effect accuracy.
 
crap, I just deleted my lengthy reply. Maybe somebody telling me not to be so wordy.

The mushroom cap is always up. Several Brit 2/95th Rifle reenactor sites show that it will not fit down the barrel. When reloading they pulled the ramrod straight up and then straight down the barrel - no 180 degree flipping. The mushroom cap was always up in the air.

Anyway, all of my cleaning and ball pulling pieces are 10x32 male thread just like the small end of the ramrod. All I can think of doing here is finding/buying/making an adapter to be fixed to the bits not the ramrod.

I'll try ramming a lightly patched ball down with the threaded end a few times just to see if there is any serious damage. Good practice for my ball puller anyway.
If that doesn't work well, maybe I'll simply go Redcoat with a paper cartridge with a tap and fire. Obviously not hunting with this method. And no, I have no intention of biting the end off of a paper cartridge just to see what black powder tastes like. :(

Cheers Ted
 
Tedscanoe said:
crap, I just deleted my lengthy reply. Maybe somebody telling me not to be so wordy.

The mushroom cap is always up. Several Brit 2/95th Rifle reenactor sites show that it will not fit down the barrel. When reloading they pulled the ramrod straight up and then straight down the barrel - no 180 degree flipping. The mushroom cap was always up in the air.

Anyway, all of my cleaning and ball pulling pieces are 10x32 male thread just like the small end of the ramrod. All I can think of doing here is finding/buying/making an adapter to be fixed to the bits not the ramrod.

I'll try ramming a lightly patched ball down with the threaded end a few times just to see if there is any serious damage. Good practice for my ball puller anyway.
If that doesn't work well, maybe I'll simply go Redcoat with a paper cartridge with a tap and fire. Obviously not hunting with this method. And no, I have no intention of biting the end off of a paper cartridge just to see what black powder tastes like. :(

Cheers Ted
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Ted, biting the ends off your cartridges is part of the tactile experience of military flintlocks, your not concentrating on tasting the powder but on blasting fast rounds from your arm.
 
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