Using a 15/64" Drill bit to drill a chamber for 10/22

Just go at it with a 1/4" drill bit, and substitute Hilti Gun ram-set blanks that you can open up to seat in a 45 grain .224" bullet (crimp it in place with a Gerber, they make a "Crimping" model for the military designed for crimping blasting caps, should be a perfect match!)

That'd be a great way to improve reliability, AND get a little more down-range performance.

Be aware, Hilti makes several different power grades of ram-set blanks, and different sizes. Yellow is medium strength, which is the strongest available for 5.6mm ram-sets. Using the "Green" ones would probably keep you in the subsonic range, but that'd take some testing/trial and error to prove.

BUT, I have an even better idea for you!

If you're willing to open up to a 6.8 mm, you can buy these:

fr01382.jpg


They come in handy pre-loaded strips.

Black are the highest pressure rounds, I'd suggest staying with the Red.

You might have to do some minor modifications to the feed system to get the pre-loaded strips to work, but I saw the A-Team do it on TV years ago, and they had NO trouble with it, so if you're an expert with hand-drills, you should be able to get this working lickety-split!

Best of all, using the 6.8mm ram-sets means that (since they're a special purpose cartridge) you will be able to call your rifle a 6.8mm SPC. :) PRETTY SWEET, and with the ten round strips (you could call them clips even!) it becomes a super tactical system that will add significantly to the potential re-sale value of your rifle!

Hope that helps with your issues!

NS
 
Just go at it with a 1/4" drill bit, and substitute Hilti Gun ram-set blanks that you can open up to seat in a 45 grain .224" bullet (crimp it in place with a Gerber, they make a "Crimping" model for the military designed for crimping blasting caps, should be a perfect match!)

That'd be a great way to improve reliability, AND get a little more down-range performance.

Be aware, Hilti makes several different power grades of ram-set blanks, and different sizes. Yellow is medium strength, which is the strongest available for 5.6mm ram-sets. Using the "Green" ones would probably keep you in the subsonic range, but that'd take some testing/trial and error to prove.

BUT, I have an even better idea for you!

If you're willing to open up to a 6.8 mm, you can buy these:

fr01382.jpg


They come in handy pre-loaded strips.

Black are the highest pressure rounds, I'd suggest staying with the Red.

You might have to do some minor modifications to the feed system to get the pre-loaded strips to work, but I saw the A-Team do it on TV years ago, and they had NO trouble with it, so if you're an expert with hand-drills, you should be able to get this working lickety-split!

Best of all, using the 6.8mm ram-sets means that (since they're a special purpose cartridge) you will be able to call your rifle a 6.8mm SPC. :) PRETTY SWEET, and with the ten round strips (you could call them clips even!) it becomes a super tactical system that will add significantly to the potential re-sale value of your rifle!

Hope that helps with your issues!

NS

Pretty sickk troll ;)

Anyways, even though I have my
flame suit on I have to say that as an engineer, I believe that I understand quite a lot of the technical side of the gun. I do appreciate a lot to those that chimed in with real information and suggestions.

I weigh all the information carefully and it appears that a gunsmith job would cost as much as a 10/22 barrel, and would waste a lot of my time to get there too. I believe that as a learning process, risks can be taken if the cost of screwing up isnt that much anyways. Afterall, its a 10/22(barrel), not a Tavor, KAC or Sigarms ;)

Pics and vid updates to come soon.
 
Judgment is the end product of critical thinking.
While being judgemental means inclined to make judgements.
I wish the OP tons of good luck. But what part of engineering school did you miss out on the importance of a good machine shop run by skilled persons?
You've got it mixed up. That part is taught elsewhere. Last time I checked machining and engineering are two completely different disciplines ;)
 
UHHHHHHH OK - you're an engineer. Then this little fact should be easy to follow. Reamers for your 22 chamber have a pilot on them to guide the cutting action of the flutes.

Drills don't.

A bit of consideration on the engineering side should now lead you to the correct conclusion.
 
I fail to see how this is a bad thing.
Next time, try the dictionary if you don't understand a vocab.

Just for you though:
Judgmental - having or displaying an overly critical point of view

If that doesn't seem like a bad thing to you, well, then you really did "fail" to see how its a bad thing ;)

(All aside. If you really couldn't find definitions online, I'm happy to help)
 
UHHHHHHH OK - you're an engineer. Then this little fact should be easy to follow. Reamers for your 22 chamber have a pilot on them to guide the cutting action of the flutes.

Drills don't.

A bit of consideration on the engineering side should now lead you to the correct conclusion.

I was thinking about this too, until the drill seem to slip right in, for about 0.75" before it touched the rifling part. I was thinking that the bit felt quite firm and tight (Not much play/wiggle) while its inserted, so I thought it was an adequate improvised pilot. Not the best I'd say, but I didn't encounter much of a centering problem.

Out of curiosity, what problems would arise if the it didn't pilot properly? Is it that the bit will make the first little bit of the chamber off centered, and later on create marks as the drill tries to centers itself?
 
You really don't have any idea of the relationship between the cartridge and the chamber for best performance and accuracy, do you?
 
You really don't have any idea of the relationship between the cartridge and the chamber for best performance and accuracy, do you?

I do understand that accuracy suffers if the bullet doesn't get engaged first before actual ignition. Hence why lots of bolt action guns tends to have the rifling engage already while chambering the round (Correct me if I'm wrong).

IIRC, if there exists a gap between the initial rifling and the bullet, the bullet will have unwanted deformation(Uneven groove engagement) when the bullet gets launched from its case and digs itself into the rifling at high speeds. This may very well cause the mass distrubution to be off centered. This in turn will cause the bullet to spin off axis? Keyholes?

However, as a wife-kid-friend-mess-around-gun, this early engagement is the thing that is making the gun jam(One of the PITA is clearing the live round when the rim wont ignite) and we all know having rounds jamming really takes away the fun.... I'm not looking at having superb accuracy. I don't think it mean much to a new shooter looking to shoot pop cans at 10 meter ranges with an airsoft reddot :D

But as you may agree, if I'm looking for real long range accurate shooting, I'd step up to real toys with real caliber :D:D:D

As for the performance, do you mean gas seal(from case expansion) during ignition affecting muzzle velocity? I'm not too sure what you meant by performance. Please advice.
 
Occasionally rifles are set up so that the bullet engraves when being fully seated, by the camming action of the final stage of lockup. Isn't generally done, because there can be a problem unloading.
This has been an interesting, instructional thread. Readers have been able to learn a lot.
Thanks for posting it.
 
Next time, try the dictionary if you don't understand a vocab.

Just for you though:
Judgmental - having or displaying an overly critical point of view

If that doesn't seem like a bad thing to you, well, then you really did "fail" to see how its a bad thing ;)

(All aside. If you really couldn't find definitions online, I'm happy to help)

Far better to err on the side of being excessively critical than to believe that all opinions are equally valid.

It seems that what you really want is validation rather than advice. Several people have told you that taking a drill to your barrel is a bad idea, and, better yet, why it is a bad idea. Still, you persist in ruining your barrel and take offence when someone questions the wisdom of your action. If that is not worthy of ridicule, I don't know what is.
 
Far better to err on the side of being excessively critical than to believe that all opinions are equally valid.

It seems that what you really want is validation rather than advice. Several people have told you that taking a drill to your barrel is a bad idea, and, better yet, why it is a bad idea. Still, you persist in ruining your barrel and take offence when someone questions the wisdom of your action. If that is not worthy of ridicule, I don't know what is.
I have to admit, I was pretty much 80% determined before visiting here for advice, or validation you would say.

Several people also gave advice on how to do it better:

I was looking more for advice like:
You are aware that the hole a 15/64 bit will make is going to be bigger then 15/64 and will way over sized. Drill a hole in a soft piece of steel and insert a 22 shell and see what happens. Will rattle around like peas in a gourd. That and how pray tell are you planning to keep the bit straight when you drill.
A better idea would be to put fine lapping compound on a empty shell and lap the chamber a bit instead.

I took that advice and went to find a smaller drill bit that gave less tolerance. It also seemed like the smaller bit slides right into the chamber. Advice taken. Thanks Raton57!

Some other so called "advice" sounded more like an opinion compared to the example listed above.

Yeah, way to go, and don't forget to give it a good clean in the the diswasher after you are done drilling. :rolleyes:

Therefore I didn't weigh too heavily on it. But I did give it some thoughts :rolleyes:

By the way, why do you think I ruined my barrel? Don't get too "...inclined to make judgments..." so quickly ;) You haven't even seen the barrel yet, have you?
 
I have had 22 rifles with tight chambers that sometimes did not feed easily and had difficult extraction. Sometimes the solution is to find a brand of ammo that will work in the chamber. Not all brands of ammo are identical. For one thing, avoid any with a heavy wax lube. Try and pick a brand and bullet weight and shape with a bullet that doesn't have carry its diameter too far forward.

If you drill out the chamber 4 thous oversize, you will ruin it. Either have the chamber reamed, sell it or trade it.
 
Back
Top Bottom