One great thing about shooting BP is that you can improvise most aspects of it - lots of tools needed, but very little that can't be had for cheap or made for free.
Casting is very easy - as long as you've got a safe area outside to do the casting and a $20 lee mold you're pretty much set to cast. When I first began I used a tuna can for a melting pot, bend nose pliers for holding it, spoon for clearing the dross off the top and a nice .50 mold. Made sure to keep a good breeze through the area for fumes and used a pan to police the dross and spare lead bits from getting spread around and makes cleanup easier.
For patching some thin pillow ticking or really any thin cotton fabric that will make up the difference between the bore diameter and ball diameter will work. Patch lube can be saliva or a nice grease lube of some kind (save your bacon fat and render it down to tallow, mix with bees wax according to outdoor temperature). Any sort of flexible rubber tube that will fit into the barrel will work as a blow tube - sometimes barrels will coke up and blowing a good breath of air down the barrel helps soften it sometimes and gets some extra shots out of it. Blow tube keeps your face away from the muzzle.
Only thing that's not intuitive is getting a non-wooden ram rod. Wood's ok as long as the grain's straight, but even so, rods can snap when ramming and you can end up with a dowel in your hand. They make flexible plastic rods that work well, or if you're shooting in one spot, brass range rods are great as well (they really help if the bore's coked up). Odds are a wooden rod won't break, but no sense in taking the risk when the solution's an easy one.
Casting is very easy - as long as you've got a safe area outside to do the casting and a $20 lee mold you're pretty much set to cast. When I first began I used a tuna can for a melting pot, bend nose pliers for holding it, spoon for clearing the dross off the top and a nice .50 mold. Made sure to keep a good breeze through the area for fumes and used a pan to police the dross and spare lead bits from getting spread around and makes cleanup easier.
For patching some thin pillow ticking or really any thin cotton fabric that will make up the difference between the bore diameter and ball diameter will work. Patch lube can be saliva or a nice grease lube of some kind (save your bacon fat and render it down to tallow, mix with bees wax according to outdoor temperature). Any sort of flexible rubber tube that will fit into the barrel will work as a blow tube - sometimes barrels will coke up and blowing a good breath of air down the barrel helps soften it sometimes and gets some extra shots out of it. Blow tube keeps your face away from the muzzle.
Only thing that's not intuitive is getting a non-wooden ram rod. Wood's ok as long as the grain's straight, but even so, rods can snap when ramming and you can end up with a dowel in your hand. They make flexible plastic rods that work well, or if you're shooting in one spot, brass range rods are great as well (they really help if the bore's coked up). Odds are a wooden rod won't break, but no sense in taking the risk when the solution's an easy one.



















































