Weird Ejection issue, seeking help (AR15)

Bcviking said:
Make sure your castle nut is nice and tight. that might be the issue .. i found out my threads were bad because i took the whole thing apart and seen they were damaged ,, ive herd of some people using locktite on the castle nut ..
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Do not locktite the castle nut (in fact locktite should never be used anywhere on the rifle itself, only accessories like backup sights), torque it down then stake it.

DIYstaking-1.jpg
 
Turns out I have a spring loaded peg in the ASAP plate that didn't catch the buffer tube. Just needed to crank it on until I heard a pop. Just need to buy more .223 to make sure that was the issue.

I did take apart the bolt again. The spring looks intact but seems to be stuck on the extractor, but I believe this is intentional from DPMS though. The claw is still sharp with no obstructions.

Here's a Pic
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I had this exact problem crop up in a test a few weeks ago.

I can assure you that it is NOT an extractor problem. The test ended when the extractor ripped the rim off a stuck case.

I never considered the loose buffer tube. Will have to look into that.

Buffer tube is not loose but it shows somewhat greater wear on one side.
 
Originally Posted by Dietz
"Do not locktite the castle nut (in fact locktite should never be used anywhere on the rifle itself, only accessories like backup sights)"


OZZ said:
Where do you come up with this nonsense?
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Better to ask - why not use locktite ? (some times good info can come out of a seemingly stupid concept, but then again - both questions are troll feeders) ;)

:ar15:
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chopper 1 said:
Originally Posted by Dietz
"Do not locktite the castle nut (in fact locktite should never be used anywhere on the rifle itself, only accessories like backup sights)"




Better to ask - why not use locktite ? (some times good info can come out of a seemingly stupid concept, but then again - both questions are troll feeders) ;)

:ar15:
swingerlh.gif
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I dont even understand neither of your concepts. First its Loctite, places you should use Loctite or Rocksett if you can get it and stake are....

1) gas key bolts. Loctite and stake
2) any kind of clamp on gas block or set screws. Loctite or Rocksett and stake
3) rail systems attachment bolts. Loctite
4) castle nut. Loctite and stake
4) BUIS . Loctite
5) Flash hider. Loctite better yet Rocksett
5) accesories you dont want to rattle loose. Loctite
 
^^hmm, not sure I agree with all of your list. If you properly stake the gas key and castle nut you should not need loctite. You don't need loctite on a flash hider if you use a proper crush washer.

Anything that clamps on the rail could probably use loctite, I agree with you there.
 
Clobbersauras said:
^^hmm, not sure I agree with all of your list. If you properly stake the gas key and castle nut you should not need loctite. You don't need loctite on a flash hider
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^^This.

The threading parts on the AR-15 itself DO NOT require locktite when properly assembled, that means torqued and staked (when applicable), the barrel nut, the castle nut and the muzzle all should see some anti-seize (moly-grease for the barrel nut), NEVER locktite.
The TDP calls for it to prevent thread galling and for other valid reasons, like being able to disassemble without ripping the threads right off. If you call nonsense the way an AR-15 is supposed to be assembled per mil-spec, then you are full of it.
A flash hider should see anti-seize and a crush/peel washer, Rocksett is only used when a silencer will be mounted on the muzzle, and that doesn't happen in Canada.

Locktite all the accessories you want, it's the way it's supposed to be done.
 
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^^^Um, Dietz, did you quote the wrong dude? I'm sure I'm full of a lot of stuff....but I actually agree with you.

Perhaps you meant to quote OZZ, who is an obvious XCR owner, he want to loctite everything.:Dcou:
 
Clobbersauras said:
^^^Um, Dietz, did you quote the wrong dude? I'm sure I'm full of a lot of stuff....but I actually agree with you.

Perhaps you meant to quote OZZ, who is an obvious XCR owner, he want to loctite everything.:Dcou:
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Yeah, I was continuing on what you were saying, not "quoting" you.

I made a little correction. ;)
 
Its a little prevention. Purple and blue Loctite will not rip off threads of anything, same as Rocksett. You dont need to slather it on.

They are all easily removed when you want BUT not when you dont. I guess you still oil your bolt/carrier too per milspec? :)
 
Spoke to Questar who sold me the buffer tube my lower is using, as well an armorer I go to. Both pretty much stated instantly that a Heavy buffer will fix the issue. I feel pretty dumb for buying the extractor spring and buffer spring, but I guess I have back ups for matienence.
 
Amazingkg3 said:
Spoke to Questar who sold me the buffer tube my lower is using, as well an armorer I go to. Both pretty much stated instantly that a Heavy buffer will fix the issue. I feel pretty dumb for buying the extractor spring and buffer spring, but I guess I have back ups for matienence.
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Never hurts to have either.


Also, see post #2 ;)
 
You're welcome. Glad your gun is back up and running.

I should also ask: What weight of buffer did you add in? Have you considered swapping to an extra power spring?

Over gassed rifles tend to beat themselves to death very (very) quickly, accentuate problems or wearing parts, and necessitate more aggressive cleaning and lubrication schedules. Investing some money in as heavy a buffer as you can find (I've used Slash's Heavy Buffers, makes the gun much smoother) along with a Wolffe XP spring ($15 or so) can give you a few thousand rounds of extra life span out of your parts/gun.
 
How many told me this one wasn't over gassed? If you have to increase the buffer weight then so it is. If you were to check the vent I'll bet you would find it bigger than needs be.
 
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