Welding stainless

I think most gunsmiths will have a “guy” that does their welding for them. Probably not a lot of guys who specialize in welding firearms either. Any numb nuts welder could potentially do the welding. It’s usually the finishing that’s tricky. I’ve been known to weld on firearms. Steel or stainless doesn’t matter. What is it you’re wanting to do?
 
Or you could thread the root. Then you could install anything you wanted. A little red locktite and it’s not going anywhere.
As bearhunter pointed out, silver solder is ideal in a socket type joint. Low temp stuff can be used by most homeowners with a propane plumbing torch.
If you’re set on welding, any welder competent in tig welding could lay a nice instagram multicoloured filet weld in there. Assuming it is spotless clean. You can’t weld over silver solder residue worth a crap. It gets ugly quick.
 
If you're just attaching a new bolt knob to the original root, silver solder works just fine. Welding wouldn't do it any better and it's next to impossible to hide the weld.

B.S.

There are multiple applications where welding is used instead of gluing or soldering.

OP,
PM me
I've precision TIG welded firearm parts for over 45yrs......professionally!
 
B.S.

There are multiple applications where welding is used instead of gluing or soldering.

OP,
PM me
I've precision TIG welded firearm parts for over 45yrs......professionally!


If you're talking about welding on a new handle as well as the knob, I agree with you.

If the OP is just adding a knob I'll stick with solder or epoxy and save a trip to the welder, who add $60 to the cost and doesn't achieve much if anything more.

Some TIG welders are just awesome, maybe you are as well. Most aren't that good.
 
B.S.

There are multiple applications where welding is used instead of gluing or soldering.

OP,
PM me
I've precision TIG welded firearm parts for over 45yrs......professionally!

Just my opinion, but....this post wins!

A decent TIG welder can make an all but invisible joint, knowing the material and using the correct filler.

A nicely run bead is art in it's own right, and you always have the option to build the area up, and shape it down to a contour that pleases the eye.
 
Micro TIG and laser welding

Some TIG welders are just awesome, maybe you are as well. Most aren't that good.

Not directly related to the job at hand, but on another forum I was reading some posts from other High Standard target pistol owners whose frames had cracked from using ammunition other than standard velocity target ammunition. And one High Standard guru said they will ALL crack eventually, even though they all crack in the same place but the small crack doesn't affect function nor safety.

After rushing to check my High Standard (it wasn't cracked), I read several long threads on collectors distraught because their High Standard was cracked. There were some pictures of pretty incredible welding fixes. Micro TIG and laser welding; 0.001″ beads using 0.005″ wire, all done under a microscope with miniscule heat.

The results look like something that a gunsmith with similar skills would have no problem finding a demand for, particularly with older firearms that have collector or emotional value. Skills aside, the welding equipment might well be too pricey for anyone other than a specialist (or somebody wanting to gamble) to afford.





 
Just my opinion, but....this post wins!

A decent TIG welder can make an all but invisible joint, knowing the material and using the correct filler.

A nicely run bead is art in it's own right, and you always have the option to build the area up, and shape it down to a contour that pleases the eye.

This isn’t necessarily about welding in my opinion, it’s about application.
I’m a welder. At least I used to play one in real life. I have industrial welders and plasma cutters in my garage. I can and do this exact type work on a weekly basis. I would still avoid it in this particular case if I’m understanding the scenario correctly.
Welding it is certainly an option and like you said, could be done well. I just don’t think it’s the best option. Especially if it was soldered on in the first place.
 
Not directly related to the job at hand, but on another forum I was reading some posts from other High Standard target pistol owners whose frames had cracked from using ammunition other than standard velocity target ammunition. And one High Standard guru said they will ALL crack eventually, even though they all crack in the same place but the small crack doesn't affect function nor safety.

After rushing to check my High Standard (it wasn't cracked), I read several long threads on collectors distraught because their High Standard was cracked. There were some pictures of pretty incredible welding fixes. Micro TIG and laser welding; 0.001″ beads using 0.005″ wire, all done under a microscope with miniscule heat.

The results look like something that a gunsmith with similar skills would have no problem finding a demand for, particularly with older firearms that have collector or emotional value. Skills aside, the welding equipment might well be too pricey for anyone other than a specialist (or somebody wanting to gamble) to afford.






Rick,
Micro & Laser has it's applications w/ limitations.

More importantly...how does the back side of the slide look?
Was it purged during the process?
Penetration %?
A surface bead is NOT structural integrity.
 
More importantly...how does the back side of the slide look?
Was it purged during the process?
Penetration %?
A surface bead is NOT structural integrity.

If it was not purged and had a sugared root, could it be ground out and Tig backfilled and machined flush?
 
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