Well, it's official - I'm a Dillon Super 1050 owner! *VID post 18, PHOTOS post 29*

Drummroll PLEASE!

Due to popular demand, I now give you... ACTUAL RELOADING.

[youtube]jyYFme8qo4A[/youtube]

Right at the end of my session yesterday, I managed to REALLY tune up the press. I backed out the expander ball on the decapping/resizing die almost all the way and locked it in position there; basically, I made it so the ball passes the case neck when the press is at maximum leverage (or as close as I could get it). Holy jeebus did it smooth up after that... so no more "stop and jerk" like you see in a few places here on the upstroke.

My press is OFFICIALLY drool-worthy for me now. Boo...... yah.

Regarding the swaging system, I'll handle that in a second post here... this one's already getting sort of 'busy'. I can feel myself rambling! :)

-M
 
Doc M, it says "This is a private video. If you have been sent this video, please make you accept the sender's friend request".

No idea what to do (and would love to watch it!!)

edit: fixed now - thanks!

edit2: thanks for the explanation of the swaging system - makes perfect sense!
 
Kevin M. said:
I wish that they could just have a primer filler that stays attached to the machine so you just dump primers in from the top of the primer filler, kind of like the casefeeder, rather then having to swap out the tube all the time. Thats my one nitpick with it.
Click to expand...

Well, this isn't strictly true - you can load a few primer tubes and then all you've got to do is pull the rod out, place the filled tube over the primer mag, and pull the "pin" on the drop end. Primer mag is refilled in about 3 seconds.

I see what you're getting at, but it's actually not as bad to refill the primer mag as it sounds.

Now, for rnbra-shooter, the swaging system...

IMG_3759.jpg


In this image, do you see the vertical black rod? That's the swaging punch, which cams off of the operating lever on the top stroke. The tip is just like you'd see on an RCBS swaging set, for example. Or, alternately, on a Dillon 600.

The rod can be threaded up or down to adjust 'maximum swaging' and is held there by a jam nut (the small silver nut just below the black retaining bar - look just above the operating lever's collar to see it). The die above it is just like you'd find in an RCBS swaging set - a big anvil that supports the opposite side of the case head/flash hole during swaging. You can see the hex-flat end of this rod and its jam nut also, making it adjustable for whatever brass you're processing.

The tip of the swaging rod basically comes up like a primer punch would, except instead of seating a primer it goes into the pocket and rounds out the sides. It's pretty slick, I have to say.

I hope that's sort of clear as mud? :)

-M
 
shotzee said:
You wouldnt happen to live around the Whyte ave area would ya! :D
Click to expand...

Hahaha... nope, but I used to work there a fair bit on weekends! :D

Once I get 'er set up in .223 (so, after I finish loading the last of my .308 brass, which will then last me for quite a while), I might be able to give a tour... lol ;)

-M
 
Freedom Ventures said:
3. Disconnect and remove the lock-out on the back of the base that keeps the system from going backwards. The ratchet is cool now, but sooner or later, you'll want to back up a hair and you'll be stuck emptying all the stations instead.
Click to expand...

I'm interested in this particular mod - what's the common way of doing this?

-M
 
Scar270 said:
Great vid, your making the wait for mine unbearable.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, I know you'll love yours when you get it... with how smooth I finally got it in .308 I can't imagine what it's gonna be like in .223.

I wanted to make some bare-bones vids that show the component parts - no stupid music in the background, no ####-measuring with "look how fast I can go!", and no over-the-top accessories like the PW auto-drive or the KISS bullet feeder.

Not that I don't think the PW and KISS are GOOD things, if you have the money and the need, but I just wanted to show the press - by itself, as issued - loading rounds by hand. I couldn't find any really good vids out there that just let the press do the talking, so I wanted to give others the opportunity to see this thing in action without having to filter out a bunch of other sensory noise.

I hope I've sort of achieved that here.

-M
 
Doc M I like your simple, clean videos. My only "complaint" was that I wished they were a bit longer; there is so much going on, that I still wasn't following everything even by the end.

So it's an eight-station press, right? What do they each do? My guesses:
1 - sizer
2 - swage primer pocket
3 - seat primer, charge powder
4 - powder check
5- ??
6 - ??
7 - seat bullet
8 - taper crimp
 
rnbra-shooter said:
Doc M I like your simple, clean videos. My only "complaint" was that I wished they were a bit longer; there is so much going on, that I still wasn't following everything even by the end.

So it's an eight-station press, right? What do they each do? My guesses:
1 - sizer
2 - swage primer pocket
3 - seat primer, charge powder
4 - powder check
5- ??
6 - ??
7 - seat bullet
8 - taper crimp
Click to expand...

It's actually

1-Case feed
2-Size/decap
3-Swager/case expander
4-Prime
5-Powder Charge
6- Empty (but this is where you would put a powder check or a Bullet Feeder)
7-Seat
8-Crimp.
 
Doc M said:
I'm interested in this particular mod - what's the common way of doing this?

-M
Click to expand...

Just unscrew the bolt that holds the rachet on the toolhead, and pull it off. Then replace the bolt as that's what causes the primer slide to move.
 
Quigley said:
It's actually

1-Case feed
2-Size/decap
3-Swager/case expander
4-Prime
5-Powder Charge
6- Empty (but this is where you would put a powder check or a Bullet Feeder)
7-Seat
8-Crimp.
Click to expand...

This ^^^. :)

I know it's a bit short; I have some longer videos on the comp and will try to get 'em up ASAP. Maybe I'll just wait 'til I start rocking out the .223 soon... hmmmmm... ;)

-M
 
Canuck223 said:
Just unscrew the bolt that holds the rachet on the toolhead, and pull it off. Then replace the bolt as that's what causes the primer slide to move.
Click to expand...

I'll have to look at this when I'm in front of the press, but doesn't the under-press ratchet hold it back too?

You're talking about the top bolt that actually holds the saw-tooth ratchet assembly, yes? I see how the bolt cams the primer assembly, and I know it prevents an early pop-up without manually releasing the catch, but I didn't realize that ratchet bar also locked the actual shellplate against reversal... I need to have a better look when I'm actually physically in front of the press.

-M
 
Following up on the tips I posted...

Allen Key to prevent backout of primer depth adjuster.
akey.jpg

(I run Lee Dies, which are short, so I D/T the toolhead and put in set screws to lock 'em)

I removed part # 13376- the Ratchet Restriction Tab, to allow the system to go backwards.
It's easier than removing the ratchet from the tool heads, since I run multiple tool heads.

rrtab.jpg

rrtab2.jpg


Here's the changeout of the dead primer bin to a funnel system.
pfun.jpg

pfun3.jpg

pfun2.jpg


Have fun!
 
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One note about swaging on a 1050;

Obviously, it's essential that the die holds the case well while the case is being swaged, otherwise the shellplate will prematurely break as it keeps getting shoved by the swaging tool.

The problem lies in the setup of the die, though - Every brand of brass has a different thickness in the bottom of the brass. It's near on impossible to set the die for everything, so you have to go with a compromise.

For me, if I'm reloading my own brass or loading brass I know is not crimped, I disengage the swager and the die to ensure that my shellplate lasts as long as possible.
 
Thanks for the tips, FV! That allen key tip is a good one for sure.

Regarding that Ratchet Restriction Tab, will removing that enable me to turn the shellplate backwards manually? As in reverse-indexing the thing? I push it back manually now, and I still can't reverse-rotate the shellplate if I get a partial stroke (like a sticky case or a case feed malfunction, rare though it is now)... bringing the handle up still does a +1 index and I still have to move most everything backwards in the shellplate by pin-pulling and musical chairs.

If removing that little RRT means I can move the shellplate back 1 just like I can move it forward 1 manually now, I'll be loving life!

Cheers,
-M
 
Also, re: the .223 swaging, the only type of brass I'm feeding through the swager will be 2,000pcs of IVI brass I just received... I'm very mindful of the 'one lot' issue, after sectioning some LC .308 cases and comparing them to sectioned Winchester and Federal cases - there can be a lot of difference there, for sure!

-M
 
Hey Sean, did you drill out your toolheads for set screws, or did/does Dillon offer that? Never seen one like it in the 6 toolheads I've owned.

(Duh!! I suppose it would help if I read the damn picture captions, instead of looking at the pictures. I'll pull out my Hooked on Phonics and brush up.)
 
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