What .308 round moose?

eastwind said:
1 box of ammo/ 20 rounds. Use 8 rounds max to sight in your rifle. Leaves 12 rounds to go moose hunting. Or you must be a really terriblely bad shot.
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I've never shot this rifle before. Only rifles I've shot before are low-recoil (comparatively) .30-30 and 7.62x39. I want to be somewhat familiar with it before running off into the bush. Wouldn't you agree that was responsible?
 
imo not really, as long as it shoots straight an you have about 5 shots under your belt before yo go bush i think thats fine.. just aim in the right spot an dont close your eyes..

thats just my opinion... but for the price of powerpoints you can afford to buy 3 boxes an let a box off at a target during sighting + accustoming to the new rifle. PS 308s hardly kick so you'l b fine.
 
Most 30-06 rifles don't give that much felt recoil. A lot depends on how it fits you.
But I will guarantee you one thing. If you shoot at a moose there will be no recoil! That's right, shoot at a moose and you won't be able to tell someone how much the rifle kicked, or indeed, if it kicked at all!
 
Winchester Power Points and Remington Core Loks have been dropping moose for decades. I would go with 180 grains worth. The plain ole Silvetips in 180 grain are fantastic. I have shot elk with them - no problem. I recovered on once that looked like it came out of an advertisement. Don't pay big bucks. Federal Fusion in 180 grain would also be an excellent choice. Just my $.02.
 
The super x silver tips are very nice to used them out of my old 308 but definately bite the bullet get a few boxes of 180 power point like three boxes from wal mart (65 bucks?) and just go shooting practie makes perfect.
 
I have never subscribed to all those fancy bullets that can do this or that or blah blah blah . You know what , I've never lost a deer, moose, bear , or whatever because of the type of bullet I used (never lost one yet ), Buy federal cheapies , sight your scope in properly and have at her. You will never convince me that bullet X is better than Bullet B in the field , maybe on paper (ballistically) , but not in the field (hunting) , your ability to use the tool is what counts more than anything . IMHO
 
H4831 said:
Most 30-06 rifles don't give that much felt recoil. A lot depends on how it fits you.
But I will guarantee you one thing. If you shoot at a moose there will be no recoil! That's right, shoot at a moose and you won't be able to tell someone how much the rifle kicked, or indeed, if it kicked at all!
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And your ears won't ring! :D
 
Any 180 gr factory load will be fine for the biggest moose that walks. Our moose are a third bigger than most, and I have seen them go down time and time again with the cheapest ammo available at Canadian Tire.

Ted
 
+1 on the Remington Core Loks. $20-$25. I have shot several moose with them and they have always performed great.
 
Obvious and perhaps stupid question - don't be insulted - where on the moose do you plan to shoot it? (We don't know if you're an experienced moose hunter or not).
 
TheCoachZed said:
I've never shot this rifle before. Only rifles I've shot before are low-recoil (comparatively) .30-30 and 7.62x39. I want to be somewhat familiar with it before running off into the bush. Wouldn't you agree that was responsible?
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If that is the case you can probably benefit from shooting a box or two for familiarization. But before you start, as stated on the other posts you need to bore-sight the rifle, with either a commercial bore-sighter or by looking though the bore and centering it on the target, then adjusting the sight until it covers the bullseye. This can be simplified with the use of a cradle which can be made simply by slotting a rigid cardboard box that will accommodate the rifle.

The next step is to confirm your zero with live firing and now comes the cool part so pay attention.

If you bore sighted at a longer range move your rifle and cradle to the 25 yard line. Assume a solid position either prone or from the bench and fire 1 round at the target. Place the rifle in the cradle and adjust the position of the cradle until the sight covers your aiming point. Without moving the rifle or the cradle adjust your sight until it covers the bullet hole. Move back to 100 yards and again fire a single round then place the rifle in the cradle and adjust the sight to cover the bullet hole. Depending on your sight, you may have to mark the bullet hole to be able to see it. Once your sight is adjusted for 100 yardsd, you may want to fire a 3 round group to ensure your adjustment was correct and that you didn't pull the shot you adjusted to. Now your rifle is sighted for 100 yards, but most cartridges do better with a longer zero range.

What you want to do is raise the sight so you bullet impacts 2" above you line of sight at 100, which is a fairly simple process with a scope sight. If your scope has quarter minute adjustments, raise it 8 clicks to gain 2" at 100 yards Depending on the velocity and the shape of your bullet this higher point of impact should take care of any trajectory concerns out to 230 yards or so depending on how flat your load shoots. But you've saved so much ammo during the sight in process that you can now afford to shoot at various ranges to see what the drop below or the rise above your line of sight will be.

Each time you shoot, write down the results. The difference between a good marksman and a superb marksman is often the records each has to refer back to. These records should record the date and time, weather conditions, light and the position of the sun and direction of the wind pertinent to the target angle, and of course your performance on the target. If you have a commercial bore sighter that uses a grid to adjust the sight against, you can also record the position of the sight against the grid for each load you shoot in the rifle, which will reduce the amount of time and ammo it takes to return to a previous sight setting.
 
I'd go for cheap Federal blue box, Winchester Power Point, or Remington Core-Lokt, all 180gr. Cheap and they will easily do the trick.

Check out the ballistics charts, and sight in for 200 yards, you should be able to hold dead-center out to 250, which is a lot longer than you may realize and only a couple inches high at 100 yards.

Put a box through to get comfortable with the gun, give it a good cleaning, and don't let the barrel get too hot.

Then you just need to put yourself within 250 yards of a moose, the gun will do it's job just fine.
 
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