what are 5 main things to do to maintain a semi auto shotgun

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humantorch

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getting my first gun this week. want to make sure i'm prepared.

heard that there should never be oil on the chokes. don't over oil it, don't under oil it(how much is enough), clean it every time its used, never play with the trigger or play with the action without having dummy rounds in it, make sure silica is in the gun safe……… any more tips ?
 
Every type of shotgun varies as to the specific maintenance required. A recoil operated gun will be treated slightly different than a gas operated gun. The manual would be a good place to start. As to not having any oil on the chokes, where did you get that idea? Not putting never seize, or grease, or oil on the choke threads is a good way to make future choke removal difficult.
 
its a 12 gauge, semi auto shot gun, warrior, sold by Corwin arms.

at bass pro and a veteran hunter told me to always make sure there is no oil on the chokes. can't remember what the reason was.
 
another point he gave me was that you shouldn't use spray oils. Just apply oil with your hand because the spray gets into places you can't clean and it gums up. thought this was a good tip.
 
#1....CLEAN IT!!
#2....repeat #1
#3....repeat #'s 1 & 2
#4....repeat #'s 1, 2 & 3
#5....repeat #'s 1 through 4


Well if said veteran hunter's advice was adhered to by yours truly not one of my guns should work? Plus I am sure every one of them would now be a "fixed" choke screw choke barreled gun!! I use gun grease on my chokes. I put a very light coat on with the type of brush you paint a model plane or car with. Now if I have neglected to clean my gun after a few hunts and I have shot lots and laid in dirty fields I use a toothbrush to scrub the action parts clean, bolt, trigger assembly, bolt slide,receiver interior, gas piston and mag tube. I usually clean with something like mineral spirits or varasol by dipping the brush in them and after cleaning use a can of compressed air to clean away the cleaning solution since I do not have an actual air compressor. I also do the same with the barrel lug and I use a tiny drill bit that will fit the gas ports and clean them by gently turning the bit by hand and working it in and out of the gas port. I make sure its not big enough to grab any metal, just remove carbon. After all the working parts are cleaned except the barrel lug and gas ports I spray Rem Oil on the bolt assembly, trigger assembly, receiver inside then once again use compressed air to remove the excess lubricant then use a clean soft rag to wipe all the parts thoroughly. I use a rag with a slight bit of Rem Oil applied to it to wipe the rest of the gun down, barrel, receiver, mag tube, piston, barrel lug etc.
For an avaerage cleaning at days end I put a bit of cleaning solvent on a rag, wipe everything down good, dry it with a dry rag then apply a bit of Rem Oil to a clean rag and wipe everything down with that.

And after year of hunting my guns still look good and function 100%
 
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Maybe he said make sure to lube your choke tubes, other wise the choke will become stuck in the barrel and you will have a hell of a time trying to get it out. allways clean and lightly oil your screw in chokes before installing them. Now for the action, disassemble the gun i.e remove barrel from action and fore end. get your self some action cleaner degreser, sold in a aerosol can. Spray the inside of the action, this will remove all the gunk in there and it evaporates leaving no residue behind. Then simply apply a drop or two of gun oil on the guide rails to lube them. Then clean the inside of the barrel with some bore cleaner and a cleaning brush, finish inside of barrel with some oil to protect it. Reassembly the gun and wipe all metal parts with some oil on a rag and put away. Done.
 
humantorch said:
its a 12 gauge, semi auto shot gun, warrior, sold by Corwin arms.

at bass pro and a veteran hunter told me to always make sure there is no oil on the chokes. can't remember what the reason was.
Click to expand...

That guy is basically telling you to be prepared for a gun that has terminal "choke lock".
Lubing a choke is the first thing that any knowledgeable shooter will tell you to do, be they a competition shooter, a high volume waterfowler, or an upland fanatic.
Some will recommend grease, some will say use an oil of some sort, but ALL will say lube the chokes!!

Telling you NOT to lube your chokes tells me that that guy was none of the above.
Cat
 
I use G96 as a cleaner/lube in my semi beretta. I was wondering what makes this stuff, and other rem oil etc, better than any other penetrants that I can buy from TSC or "borrow" from the shop.
 
Ok, so the reason he gave not to lube you choke with oil or grease is because you can over torque and strip the threads on it. I picked up a tube of anti seize at bass pro for my chokes. Apply a small amout to the first 2 or 3 threads and screw'er down. Get it in tight but again not Arnold Terminator strength. With the anti seize it will ensure your choke can be removed, after all the heating and cooling. Hope that helps
 
great stuff. much appreciated. didn't realize buying a gun is like being married to a high maintenance woman. i'm sure it will be worth it. lol
 
humantorch said:
thanks Darryl. thats why i did the post, there are always things even veteran hunters forget.
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Rimfire firing pins tend to hit the edge of the chamber without a cartridge in them, and the older shotguns had flat springs in them instead of coils, which don't do well when dry fired as they can in time break because of a slight overtravel shock.
The modern made springs do not have these issues, but i still keep snap caps in my guns anyway.
Cat
 
better to be safe then sorry eh cathat

haven't got the gun yet grouse. heard a rumour that the gun doesn't come with a manuel. i have been looking at the weatherby manuel if it doesn't' come with one. apparently the SA-08 weatherby is pretty well the same as the warrior semi auto
 
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