What info to record and methods for working up loads?

[Potshot21]

Good Day CGN!

I am finally all set to start crunching out my first reloads! I have all the necessary equipment, manuals, and understanding on how to perform the task at hand. All that being said, I am still a little lost as to what to do now that everything is set-up and the components are in front of me! I have settled on a power and bullet combination and have load data from my Lyman manual, but am still not positive what the best course of action is.

Does one simply crunch out an entire batch at the starting powder charge? Do some at the starting point and others at higher increments? What seating depth should I use the first go round, SAAMI or a measured distance off lands? And heck, what info should I be recording about the particular loads for later comparison (maybe something a newbie would miss perhaps)? What are some of the methods veteran reloaders use to distinguish one load from another and times fired on the case?

Trying not to get too overwhelmed and come at this with a solid plan to avoid any potentially dangerous mishaps!

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[Kayser Sose]

Oh jeez bro, relax for a sec... youve got the right idea but slow down a mo!

Id start with what your loading manual (Lyman 49th Edition, for but one example) says regards the recommended overall length. If youre feeding out of a mag that will be almost a pre-decided factor... you have a pile of good ideas but start with the basics.

Record: bullet type and weight
Powder type and weight
Primer specs
Overall length.

When i am ready to nerd right out i record: brass type.

When im working up a load i load up five or ten of a powder weight with a given bullet. Working up loads takes many bullets... sometimes i only load five so: ".308 Win., 150gr FMJBT Hornady, 2.050", 39.5gr H4895" then "etc etc 40gr H4895" then "bla bla bla 40.5gr H4895" and so on.

I choot em, watching for high pressure signs, accuracy, and if i have a chronograph to measure it, velocity. I really need to purchase a chronograph, but watching for pressure signs has worked for me... lucky?

 

[Kayser Sose]

Ok the iphine migt die on me here...

Start at the starting load; my bet is youll know that this is too low a velocity right away so if they bring no joy, save the rounds to reuse the components (you have a bullet puller right?)

Keep the targets youre using and write on them what you shot at em.

I segregate the brass to tell how many times theyve been fired... i think i'll file little notches in the rim eventually. Im loadijg for a M14-type btw, what're you loading for?

Regarding 'length off the lands'... This is almost an advanced thing to get into. Load up a couple hundred to get the basic hang of things then incorporate that into your recipe.

Can't believe the battery has lasted thru this

 

[OldDude]

Some tidbits I've realized over the years, some through my own experience, and some through the wisdom (or mistakes) of others:

Start low and work your way up. Max loads in someone else's gun may not be the same as yours.
Change one thing (powder charge, seating length, primer brand, etc...) at a time.
Keep only one container of powder on your loading bench at a time. If you're loading a big batch of ammo, make sure all containers you plan to use are the same lot, especially for max loads.
I use a sharpie marker to colour code the primers during load development. Others have found other ways to make sure they know which test load is which.
No tv, kids, significant other, pets or other distractions while reloading. Background music if it doesn't keep you from focusing on what you're doing.
Keep written records of what / when you reload.

If you are inclined to sample a wobbly frosty one once in a while, hold off on the wobblies for when you are done reloading for the day/evening.

 

[VanMan]

Here's an example of the data I'll capture when I run my test loads through a chrono

• I keep more details on each test batch in my reloading log like batch numbers of powders, primers, crimp settings, anything I may have changed in my reloading setup ....
• For the first string, I like to run a calibration load through my chrono to make sure it's working ok and as a baseline in case weather conditions effect my test results. For me, it's the ammo from Custom Reloading Services. It's very consistent, with very small avg deviation and ES.
• I make a note of the gun I'm testing for each string
• I've set up auto-formating to identify cells in pink where I have not met the power factor I'm working towards. In this example it's minor so a 125pf

 

[VanMan]

I also use labels to identify each load and keep track of what I'm testing. I used the Avery Label program to print these test labels, and also have labels printed for batches of practice and match ammo with the final loads I've worked out.

 

[Varmit]

Make sure you measure the "distance from the bolt face to the lands" for each bullet you are using, (assuming you are using a bolt action rifle). The COAL will be different for each one for that particular rifle. Start your 'work up' with the bullet about 20 thou back from the lands. After you find a load that groups good you can try different lengths if you need to tighten the groups up more.

 

[Potshot21]

Here is another question regarding the whole seating depth thing that is unclear to me; but when loading for a semi-auto or any other action, one shouldn't be trying to get close to the lands and just going by the cartridge spec right? Bolt guns are one thing I know, but I am looking to reload for a bunch of autoloaders and lever guns.

 

[Varmit]

Of course you have to ensure the cartridge will not be too long for the magazine. Rifles have different throats as well. My friend and I have new Winchester model 70s, both in 270win. One rifle's throat is 16 thou longer than the other one.

 

[ryan]

Here is another question regarding the whole seating depth thing that is unclear to me; but when loading for a semi-auto or any other action, one shouldn't be trying to get close to the lands and just going by the cartridge spec right? Bolt guns are one thing I know, but I am looking to reload for a bunch of autoloaders and lever guns.

Right, stick to the specs for now. Seating bullets out to the lands is for later, and as many have found out, it just might not make a difference anyway.

 

[Varmit]

Remember the reloading book 'spec' for COAL is a maximum, not a minimum. Loading to the book spec for say the 270 is 3.34". Depending on the bullet this may be too long and may jam into the lands. Factory ammo is not usually made to the 3.34" because they want the ammo to fit into all rifles of that caliber.

 

[H4831]

Here is another question regarding the whole seating depth thing that is unclear to me; but when loading for a semi-auto or any other action, one shouldn't be trying to get close to the lands and just going by the cartridge spec right? Bolt guns are one thing I know, but I am looking to reload for a bunch of autoloaders and lever guns.

1) Completely forget about making "accurate" loads for each rifle involved, since you say they are autos and levers.
2) Full length re-size every round, every time. Use any brand of brass you desire, or have on hand.
3) Use the COAL as shown in your manual, and if you are lucky, they will go in all your rifles. No other testing of distance from rifling is required.
4) Regardless of the rifle action involved, every rifle has been proof tested with two cartridges which were 20% over-load, so the rifles will most likely function well at the "max" load shown in your manual. Just reload a couple of cartridges for each of your rifles about a grain or so under full load, and if all is well with them, load another two at full load, to see if each rifle will function OK with that load, and if so, load all your reloads to the standard, manual figures. No other testing of any type, should be required.

 

[Ron AKA]

Here is the information I would record:

Date Loaded:
Cartridge Description and intended gun: - I keep my brass separated by gun that it is used in, even when the gun is the same cartridge
Case Brand:
Case Times Fired: - you should anneal your brass every 5 firings if you want it to last
Primer: Brand, Size, Batch Number
Powder: Brand, Type, Batch Number
Powder: Weight in grains
Powder Measure setting - if you use one to load direct or load to the powder scale pan
Bullet: Brand, Type, Weight, and Batch Number
COAL: Record what you use. I would start at the maximum number in the manual. You can adjust the bullet seating shorter if they are too long. If you are loading bullets light for your cartridge, you may have to go shorter. I would keep the body of the bullet (not boat tail) in the neck.
Comments: About any issues you had in loading

That is about it.

 

[skypilot]

I like to have the option of accuracy at distance for coyotes so I load develop with the thought that I may have to take a long shot on a previously harrassed yote. I usualy start about 5% below max load listed in manual and work up watching for pressure signs.

For 223 I load 5 and move up .2 gr, load 5 more etc. For 308, I do the same except move up .3 or .5 gr.I use a perm. marker to ID each load, usually on the brass itself.

After getting 20 or so rounds I shoot at 200-300m, round robin using the same POA and record the hits on a blank target with a pen.

I am looking for a node that comes together with the same powder load, with little to no vertical stringing(to determine consistency of MV, verified by chronorgraph)

When I see that node, at the highest MV also, I use that load as my base and start over loading .1-.2 gr above and below that powder weight and reshoot to get a refined node. I may adjust seating with that load to get my final load for that gun.

 

[supernova]

A good tip that will inevitably either help you or make you wish you'd done it is to mark your rounds by charge weight. I use a fine point marker to put a symbol on the primer and record the legend so I know exactly what each round is. Why would someone do this? Well lets just say a certain CGN member was one sad panda when I showed up at our local shooting spot and he'd dumped almost 50 rds of .308 on the ground each with carefully hand weighed charges in .2 gr increments that were now all mixed up with no way to tell them apart. He was none to pleased as you could imagine. Another tip, make notes of every batch of brass or rounds you're using. I often have different batches of different cals that may be fire formed, fl sized, neck sized, trimmed or whatever. Sometimes stuff sits for a while and you forget what it was fired in, what you've done to it and what you still need to do to it. I use a roll of 1.5" masking tape and a marker to make quick labels for everything from brass to loaded rounds so I can quickly pick up where I left off. I use the same setup to put labels in my ammo boxes of loaded rounds so I know exactly whats in the box. Notes are a life saver when you start juggling multiple calibers, rifles and loads.

 

[Dogleg]

I also write the charge loads on each test cartridge with a Sharpie. It gives me something to do while I'm waiting for the Chargemaster to grind out the next one.

I wish I could say that I only had to spill the box of test loads once, or have picked up a cartridge and forgot which row it come out of once, or forgot which row of shells was what once, or what the whole box of test loads done in advance meant once to learn that little gem. There's also a second chance to learn something when primers are seated the next time around. You can go from "no pressure signs" to "everything above 67 grains has noticeably looser pockets" or "I never noticed before but 98 grains has light ejector marks" faster than you can say I'll be damned.

I've got most of my friends and half of the range doing it now. It saves work in the end.

 

[Andy]

If you handload and don't own and use a Chronograph, buy one. Cost is not an excuse - they can cost as little as $150 with tripod and you've already (or will) spend several times that on other equipment.

 

[skypilot]

Lol. I too remember the 1st time I wrote the charge weight on the bullet sleeve that keeps the rounds inside the box nice and separated and then spilled them. Never made that mistake again. As I mentioned above, I ID and write the powder weight on each brass in perm. marker.

I also "Sinclair" the chamber so I know the measurement to the lands and use a Sinclair Comparator for my seating depth ogive to casehead.
A chronograph is a big help also. I use the chrono to determine ES and SD and let my drops double check my MV.

 

[Tinman204]

Here's what I do when loading for a new rifle in a new to me caliber. If it's a new rifle in a caliber that I already load for often I go to my go to loads for other guns that I own and try those as often they work well as long as they are not a hot load at or near max. Always assume every rifle wants a different load until you are well rounded enough to know your guns.

But I'll start with a new rifle in a new caliber to me.

First off I go over the rifle and inspect the bore and throat area making sure it's not super worn etc. I check the bedding and make sure the action screws are tight. I make sure any scopes or sights are tight and function correctly. Any issues with the gun will result in an inability to shoot good groups making any ammo you load shoot poorly.

First off I take out my reloading "bible" that I've had for years which is nothing more then a notebook with a pen.

I start a new page with the new rifle, writing down what it is and any important info about it. When I first started I didn't do this and often I'd have to redo tests because simply I forgot. And I'll note that now I've loaded 40 plus different calibers and it's impossible to remember all of my tests and data. Sometimes I pull a rifle out that I only shoot once a year or once every couple years and I can't remember for the life of me the exact load that I use. That's where my trusty reloading bible comes in handy as I can simply look for the page marked for that rifle and quickly load ammo for it that I know will perform.

I then write a paragraph labled "test loads". I write down brass type, bullet type, powder, primer and weather conditions. A lot of people don't consider weather conditions when testing ammo. A good load will perform well at most Temps where as I've had loads that drive nails at 20 degrees but are very inconsistent at lower or higher Temps.

Often I will do a search on the Internet and look in various reloading and shooting books that I have like "Ken waters pet loads" etc and see what powders and bullet weights other people have had luck with in similar guns with similar twist rates.

Once I'm happy that I know enough about the cartridge in question I pick my components based on what I want to do with the rifle like hunting, plinking or varmint control.

I then take a full length sized cartridge and seat a bullet long and slowly keep seating it until the bolt closes. I write down that measurement in my notes with the bullet data etc. That info let's me know approximately how long my throat is incase I want or need to seat the bullets long on the future.

If it's an auto loader or lever gun I simply seat the bullets to the cannular as a crimp will be applied later. I then check that the dumby cartridge fits in the magazine.

After that I start at minimum load and load 3 of each load increasing the charge .5 grain at a time. Often because most of my guns are old I load til about 1 grain under max as often I find a sweet spot below max and see no reason to keep going. If its a new gun that will be used for long range shooting I'll load starting at the middle and up to max and watch for signs of high pressure. For instance my 308 Palma rifle has a match chamber and target action, that one likes a load 2 grains above max, but it is a purpose built gun and there is zero signs of pressure at that charge. That load is a 155 grain Palma bullet traveling just north of 3100 fps which is a seriously stiff load. If I put that load in a regular rifle it wouldnt be the safest thing so what I'm getting at is stay with published loads until you really know what you are doing. Also keep your loads separate for each gun until you have verified that say 1 load is safe and works well in various rfiles that you own.

Often though I find amazing accuracy at or near the bottom of the load data, and being that I plink with most of my guns I'm not concerned with velocity unless it's a long range gun.

I shoot each group at 200 yards letting the barrel cool between shots.

Once Ive found one or more loads that perform well I'll load 10 of each and repeat my testing with similar weather conditions. If I don't find any loads that work I will often scrap that load all together and start over with different powders or bullets. It doesn't happen often but sometimes I get a picky gun that isn't happy with what I'm feeding it.

If a 10 round group drives nails my testing is compete and I write down my new load in the book under "accurate load". If I'm shooting said loads at long range like say 500 plus yards I will chronograph them as that makes accurate windage and elevation set up easier. If I'm just plinking with my rounds I'm done as velocity makes no different to me.

That's about it.

There's many ways to load ammo, as long as you do it safely and have fun whatever way works for you is the best way.

 

[curseyou]

One easy way

Step 1: Load 10 rounds, each with a different powder load evenly spaced between your manual recipe min and max loads. Shoot with a chrony inspecting each for pressure signs after each firing and recording velocity stopping if you hit pressure signs.
Step 2: Load 10 more with .2 gr variance around the load that was 60% of the way between min and YOUR max. Ladder test.
Step 3: Load 10 more with .1 gr variance around the most promising candidate. Ladder test.
Step 4: Profit.