This has been done by many LR and BR shooters.I hate the thought of anything spinning crap in a rifled barrel... working on the sharp edges of the grooves... I wouldn't do it to anything I owned.
This has been done by many LR and BR shooters.I hate the thought of anything spinning crap in a rifled barrel... working on the sharp edges of the grooves... I wouldn't do it to anything I owned.
What's 'many' ? I would suspect not the majority. I knew of no BR shooters doing that in the 70's and 80's. What can be gained by rotating dirt and debris at right angles to the rifling. The rotating brush working at right angles to the rifling does not reach down to the inner edge of the rifling, it is concentrated and wears on the upper edge of the rifling. I do not understand how this can be good for a barrel. There are better ways to remove fouling.This has been done by many LR and BR shooters.
There is a video with Lou Murdica explaining how he does it.What's 'many' ? I would suspect not the majority. I knew of no BR shooters doing that in the 70's and 80's. What can be gained by rotating dirt and debris at right angles to the rifling. The rotating brush working at right angles to the rifling does not reach down to the inner edge of the rifling, it is concentrated and wears on the upper edge of the rifling. I do not understand how this can be good for a barrel. There are better ways to remove fouling.
He even states the spinning brush catches on the edge of the rifling and you have to stoke back and forth with the rod to clean the bottom of the grooves.There is a video with Lou Murdica explaining how he does it.
The barrel in post one needs all the help it can get. A drill is where I would be immediately if not sooner.He even states the spinning brush catches on the edge of the rifling and you have to stoke back and forth with the rod to clean the bottom of the grooves.
I never found cleaning a benchrest barrel any great problem. It was usually done after every relay... and no benchrest barrel would ever look like the barrel in post 1.
Why take the chance damaging the rifling though? A DIY electrolysis set-up is cheap, easy and works well without all the physical effort.The barrel in post one needs all the help it can get. A drill is where I would be immediately if not sooner.
It probably won't. But it won't clean worth a damn either if rotated inside the barrel. Needs to be cleaning lengthways following the rifling.How in the world is a bronze or nylon brush going to damage rifling?
Well I would hope you are still moving the cleaning rod lengthways along the bore.It probably won't. But it won't clean worth a damn either if rotated inside the barrel. Needs to be cleaning lengthways following the rifling.
It's the fouling, carbon and any debris that is spun around that may do damage...How in the world is a bronze or nylon brush going to damage rifling?
It's not the base material of the bristles that would be my concern. It's the massive accumulation of cupro nickel, carbon and probably rust in there that would do the damage. There are far too many unknown/ uncontrollable variables. The bore has been galvanized. Cupro nickel, depending on its composition has the ability to be work hardened and heat treated. You go ripping a bore brush at any rpm into an inconsistent diameter bore attempting to dislodge all that build up and what do you think will happen? Now add in carbon deposits and rust to that high speed brush spinning in there perpendicular to the rifling. It's not a good idea at all. In all honesty, I don't think you would get too far. With the bore already being constricted and coupled with an inconsistent diameter, and the brush being run radially vs axially. I'm willing to bet the twisted wire of the bore brush would seperate from the crimp at the mandrel or the threaded shank would shear/strip in short order. You'd end up with the same galvanized bore, now with half a bore brush lodged in it.How in the world is a bronze or nylon brush going to damage rifling?




























