What make is this 12 gauge semi auto?
- Thread starter guntech
- Start date
Im kinda surprised at you Dennis 
Being a gun tech and all...just teasing so please dont be offended,ok .
Does this gun have an all alloy receiver ?
My cousin has one similar in appearance from what I can from the provided picture.
Im of the opinion it might be an Ithica as it looks very much as my cousins.
His was rendered a parts gun when he noticed the action bars had worn through the receiver side opposite the ejection port.
He bought it at an Auction in Steveston at the Old Stevea Theater on First Ave.
Rob
Being a gun tech and all...just teasing so please dont be offended,ok .
Does this gun have an all alloy receiver ?
My cousin has one similar in appearance from what I can from the provided picture.
Im of the opinion it might be an Ithica as it looks very much as my cousins.
His was rendered a parts gun when he noticed the action bars had worn through the receiver side opposite the ejection port.
He bought it at an Auction in Steveston at the Old Stevea Theater on First Ave.
Rob
LOL
It has an alloy receiver... my first thoughts were of Ithaca/SKB.
The blueing on the barrel is quite nice but on close inspection I think it has been refinished, removing all barrel markings with the FULL stamp being applied and then reblued. Interior wise this is in very good condition.
The butt stock is missing a factory medallion... is this like an Ithaca.
It has an alloy receiver... my first thoughts were of Ithaca/SKB.
The blueing on the barrel is quite nice but on close inspection I think it has been refinished, removing all barrel markings with the FULL stamp being applied and then reblued. Interior wise this is in very good condition.
The butt stock is missing a factory medallion... is this like an Ithaca.
madtrapper143
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Steep Rock Lake NWO
First series Model 900 Ithaca. Single extractor and unsplit ejector are the indicators. I have the second version with setters and pheasants very nice handling gun and reliable. "Custom Crafted in Japan by SKB for Ithaca Gun Company" mine reads. Mine also has the Dunnville Ontario address for Ithaca. As for value I paid 300.00 for mine in extremely excellent condition.
Darryl
Darryl
bdft
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I paid 300.00 for mine as well. A decent gun but not much call for them it seems.
gunsaholic
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg, Manitoba
I had the XL900. Paid $325.00 for it brand new in 1977. Nice handling gun but mine was not reliable at all no matter how well it was cleaned.
That style of recoil system requires the friction pieces to be set correctly for the power of the shell and if failure to eject is a problem the magazine tube usually requires light lubrication, not left dry. I use a light grease for this on all of the old 'Auto 5' recoil systems.
madtrapper143
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Steep Rock Lake NWO
The Ithaca XL series 900 and 300 were gas operated. The standard 300 and 900 were Browning long recoil operated. Series 2 guns like mine have a sticker in the fore end cautioning against using any oil whatsoever in the recoil mechanism. (rings, compression sleeve etc.) There is always a lot of confusion with owners of XL series and standard series 300/900 guns.
Darryl
Darryl
1963beretta
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vaughan, Ontario
It depends on the gun. Some guns need to have slight lubrication to function. Others can function without lube. Running it dry is preferable because the friction is what you want to prevent the barrel from slamming into the receiver. Having lube on the mag tube can cause the barrel to violently slam into the receiver adding to the felt recoil and potentially damaging the stocks. This is why its common to find long recoil guns with cracks in the stocks. By the looks of the photo posted above, it appears that the wrist has been pinned, likely due to a stock crack
I agree... if the friction pieces are set correctly and the tube dry and the gun functions fine... that's desirable...
but over 45 years I have encountered numerous Browning Auto 5's that with the friction pieces set correctly and the tube dry would have ejection failures every time... and that was easily corrected with lubricating the tube. Successful ejection is based on the barrel slamming forward quickly. Sometimes a dry tube does not allow that.
The wrist is freshly pinned and glass bedded...I just did it... it looks like the stock bolt was not tight and possibly it had been fallen on or it was a natural 'check' in the wood over time.
1963beretta
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vaughan, Ontario
Long recoil guns are funny in that adding too much lube can also cause a failure to cycle. The lubrication can cause the barrel to cycle too quickly and not give the system enough time to eject a spent shell. The result can be a spent shell getting rechambered, getting hung up in the receiver between the bolt and the barrel, or getting caught on the next shell floating on the follower. If a mag needs lube for the gun to cycle, that means the friction ring is too tight on the mag tube. A better fix is some steel wool to the inside of the brass ring and a very slight polish to the mag tube for 1/2 to 5/8 of where the ring travels furtherest from the receiver
1963beretta
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vaughan, Ontario
Further to the post above, sometimes cycling issues arise because mag tubes are slightly out of round somewhere in the course of where the friction ring travels. I’ve come across a few where this was the case. And as we all know with used guns, we cant always guarantee that the parts on the gun are original. Friction rings and mag tubes wear into each other over time. Swap a ring with that of another gun, and there is a good chance that there will be cycling issues
With recoiling systems as the Auto 5 ejection successful ejection is accomplished when the barrel fully recoils at which point it must freely and very quickly 'slam' forward ejecting the shell before tripping the loading latch. If the friction pieces drag on this forward movement, it will jam. If the friction pieces are set correctly and not damaged and the tube is round and smooth and yet when dry they drag and cause malfunction, greasing the tube is a very reliable fix. I'll stick with that.
1963beretta
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vaughan, Ontario
No doubt a lubricant will help, but more often then not, its a solution rather than an actual fix. I own many long recoil guns and have only had to resort to lube once. There has been an actual fix every other time. If many different manufactures (Browning, Franchi, Remington, Breda, SKB) say no lube, there is usually a reason for it.
Well it may be a solution and an actual fix if there is nothing wrong with the tube and friction pieces...
Back in the 70's I sold and inspected or worked on many Browning Auto 5's with factory lube and I have never seen any instruction from Browning not to use lube on the tube. Browning states to use light oil. I found light grease to last longer.
