"What release agent should I use?

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hawk-i

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I've got my one of my 700's ready for bedding (Devcon alum. putty) and I tried to find some Johnson's paste wax but it seems to be a thing of the past in the stores around my place.
Was wondering if anybody has tried Automotive wax (like turtle wax)? Was also thinking maybe One shot case lube? I've tried Pam twice and it worked great the first time and so so the next. Looking for your input!
Thanks
 
I have had great results with Kiwi shoe polish, a thin layer of it on the metal surfaces works great. It will even transfer the grain of the metal into the bedding material.
 
Try a good quality neutral coloured shoe wax.
The last half dozen beddings I've done with 'Esquire' brand, have released easily and to a nice smooth finish on the epoxy.
Two coats of wax applied with a toothbrush, buffed lightly.

Modeling clay for the holes and depressions in the metal.
Synthetic grease on the action screws/holes.

:rockOn:

Edit: If you invert the gun while it is curing .... those pesky air bubble holes will be gone from the finshed job. :)
 
Thanks guys....looks like shoe wax it will be.
vviking...by inverted you mean stock up, action down?
 
What you see is what I am now using for bedding compound and release agent.


P4220014.jpg
 
Kelly, lol, is that diet coke undiluted? On a serious note, Is that olive oil?? can't really make it out in the photo.
 
hawk-i said:
I've got my one of my 700's ready for bedding (Devcon alum. putty) and I tried to find some Johnson's paste wax but it seems to be a thing of the past in the stores around my place.
Was wondering if anybody has tried Automotive wax (like turtle wax)? Was also thinking maybe One shot case lube? I've tried Pam twice and it worked great the first time and so so the next. Looking for your input!
Thanks
Click to expand...

Best release agent i have found so far is mig dip, The stuff keeps molten metal from sticking to the tip of the spool gun, keeps epoxy from sticking to wnwanted parts very well.
 
That is 100% pure rebel bad ass diet coke!!!

Yes, it is olive oil, doesn't leave any odd colored release agent on the action and cleans up easily and even if you don't get it all it won't bother a thing.

That is the bedded recoil lug of a Vanguard into a Boyd's stock, that is right after removal of the action, prior to trimming and cleaning.So as you can see it releases fairly clean.


P4020130.jpg


hawk-i said:
Kelly, lol, is that diet coke undiluted? On a serious note, Is that olive oil?? can't really make it out in the photo.
Click to expand...
 
For a few dollars the boating/fiberglass places usually have a few kinds of wax for this purpose in a can size that lasts a few lifetimes.
 
Would petroleum jelly ( Vaseline ) work ?
I know exactly nothing about bedding , but in casting prosthetics Vaseline has always been my release agent of choice .
Just wondering .
 
There all all sorts of things that will work, maybe bacon grease, maybe even a fat bears crap,

But repeatable in the multiple threads over the last couple of years and many different forums there are two that work identically better than all the rest..,

Plain old paste floor wax (any brand) and Kiwi shoe polish...

I prefer paste floor wax because it is basically colorless and does not require removing afterwards... no mess to get off the metal, a superb fit of bedding to metal that can not be beat.

Vaseline and other greases are messy and don't give as good a fit.
 
I used PAm. First can worked well then they changed the formulation and second can was a disaster.


Floor wax and shoe wax always work.

I now use a spray can of "mould release" bought at the industrial supply store. I like the spray because it gets into all the little corners in a flash.
 
The Devcon is curing right now and I used Kiwi shoe polish...guess I'll see how it worked out tomorrow!!!
 
There was the one time hawk-i ... using Pam spray if I recall ... when she wouldn't let go for love or money.
Went friend-shopping to find a freezer long enough to cold soak it into submission. Hard pounding. No fun.

Ever since that misadventure, I monitor the cure. When the leftovers get hard enough that a thumbnail won't dent the epoxy, usually about 5-6 hours, the guard screws get marked for position, loosened ... the BA is tapped lightly from the underside to release ... guard screws regreased and retorqued back to their mark.

Sometimes the alarm clock is needed, no biggie, it's hard to sleep soundly during a bedding job anyways.
 
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