what revolver would you recommend in 357

The Reason I went with the Ruger GP100 in 4.2" barrel is for a few reasons explained to me by a Range officer at a busy range:

1. Price
2. A S&W barrel will wear out it 1-2 weeks at the range as a rental.
3. The Ruger GP100 at the same range with equal use lasts up to 1 year.
4. The Ruger is built like a tank.
5. The S&W revolvers do have better springs equaling a better trigger pull right from the factory. The Ruger can be taken to a gun smith and have springs changed for a small fee to achieve the same trigger.

I'm sure there are many other pros and cons for both guns. After purchasing the RUger I have absolutely no regrets. Fires and handles great and so far 100% reliable.
 
I would recommend a S&W 686 or a S&W 627 V-Comp.

S&W 627 V-Comp:
sw627vcomp.jpg

SUPER ###y gun but pretty $$$ :(
 
I prefer S&Ws, but would recommend a Ruger for its ruggedness. Of the Rugers I prefer the Service/Security/Speed Six over the GP100.
 
Why would you not consider something like this?
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=184768333

3 screw ruger, 4 clicks.
They stopped making these around 1973.

Spend some time with a bucket of 38 sp mild reloads some soft cast bullets and a steel gong... ;)

Re watch the movie Outlaw Josey Wayles.


Maybe you will get it, maybe not...;)

Wasn't Josey Wayles SA's a cartridge conversion of a colt cap 'n ball? Been about a year or so since I've seen it, have to watch it again @.@
 
and

2:what is difference between a regular 686 s&w vs A performance centre s&W

3: what to watch out for when buying a used revolver

What do you want, smooth like glass? then buy a python, rugged, indestructible truck gun then buy a ruger, a common gun then buy a 686, watch for burring on the cylinder stops as that will indicate timing issues also watch for fire cutting (not sure of the real name) just above where the barrel and chamber meet as that will indicate how much the pistol has been shot, over time the blast starts to wear a cut line in the metal.

Pythons hold their value the best and simply are the smoothest of them all. the older the better, usually as they were hand fitted.

Not sure what the difference is between a regular and a performance centre s&w. Just know that you won't go wrong buying any of the pistols mentioned, they all work well shoot well and bring their owners great pleasure. If you really want to spend some money wait for a Korth.
 
If I had to pick but one 357 magnum revolver, it will have to be the Ruger GP100 with 4.2 inch barrel in stainless.

A GP100 will do everything well, but probably not excel in any particular job or quality....except the fact that it will still be shooting full house magnums when less durable makes, models or designs have been reduced to scrap.

I have Smith L-frames and Ruger GP100 and Security Six. Had a Colt Python in the past. Brand S and Brand C are pretty to look at, to fondle and nice to shoot the occasional full house magnum. But only the Rugers will stand up to continuous 357 mag shooting without complaint.

If I am allowed two or more, my next revolvers will definitely be a couple of Smiths, then back to more Rugers.
 
So what exactly goes wrong with a 686 that is fed a diet of .357 loads for an extended time?

How many rounds until they are "scrap"?

How do you know when the barrel is toast ? How many rounds typically ?
 
The only con against the Ruger is its lack-luster finish. If you don't mind an ugly duckling (in terms of finish, when compared to most all other revolvers) the GP100 wins hands down.

In addition to being overbuilt, part of the reason why the Rugers are so strong is the casting process which Ruger has perfected for many of their components/parts... ultra tough! I mean breaking many taps trying to tap a receiver tough. It's also why they are uglier than normal.

So, if you ever see a nice one with few visual flaws, in store, snatch it up!
 
chances are the OP's pistol is not going to see 10,000's of thousands of rounds, heck buy what fits your hand, they are all good revolvers.
 
So what exactly goes wrong with a 686 that is fed a diet of .357 loads for an extended time?

How many rounds until they are "scrap"?

How do you know when the barrel is toast ? How many rounds typically ?

L Frame S&Ws stand up just fine to a steady diet of full power .357 loads. I would expect a round count of several tens of thousands of rounds before major repairs were required. I doubt that there is any significant difference in service life between a S&W 686 and a Ruger GP-100.

The K Frame guns (Models 19 and 66) don't have the same service life as some other .357s, but it will still take quite a lot of shooting to wear one out. They can crack the barrel at the bottom of the forcing cone where it narrows to allow the cylinder yoke to pass. This crack can spread to the frame. These guns are best suited to mostly .38 Special with occasional .357 shooting.

In general, revolvers tend to eventually wear by developing excessive endshake and the cylinder timing going out of whack.
 
So what exactly goes wrong with a 686 that is fed a diet of .357 loads for an extended time?

How many rounds until they are "scrap"?

How do you know when the barrel is toast ? How many rounds typically ?

When Smith L frames (586/686) are fed steady full house magnums, their cylinder lock-up loses that bank vault solidness. You will notice that under lock up, the cylinder would rotate, in my rough estimate, two degrees or more. I had a 686 I bought from a buddy that probably shot 10,000 magnums during the heyday of metallic silhouette, that was clearly more loose than 2 degrees. It was still almost as accurate as my newer 686.

My current 686 which locked solid when shot only 38 specials, started to have discernible looseness after only 100 magnums.

Can't tell you how many rounds till they are crap, cos I've haven't reached that stage. Could be 30-40K full mags, who knows perhaps somebody with the experience can chime in. But I like my guns tight. So now, my Smiths are shot up to 38 +P+ loads only.

My GP100 doesn't know the difference between 38 spl and magnum:D

A barrel is worn-out when your groups expand noticeably. Say you could shoot 3 inch groups at 25 meters. Once you notice a progressive deterioration, say to 4, then 5...with all factors remaining the same like your skill/eyes, shooting style/proficiency, ammo load etc, then perhaps the barrel is shot out. With lead .38 reloads, I've heard of PPC competitors shooting 200,000 rounds and still going strong. With jacketed full house magnums, could be much much less, perhaps 30K.
Loss in accuracy can also be a result of wear in other parts, though.

Having said all that, I love Smiths and Rugers for what they are. Smiths have that sweet DA/SA trigger although I don't care much for its SA trigger which is the best stock SA trigger you can get, but I almost never shoot SA anyway. Smiths have the best revolver "look", IMO. I love my Ruger GP100 and Security Six. They may not have the sleek design and trigger of Smiths, but mechanically they are superior with acceptable triggers that get better with use. Ruger triggers can be worked on to approach the feel of a Smith but I doubt if they will equal a Smith's. As well, both the GP and SS seem to fit my hand better than the Smiths.

If you will buy a Ruger, buy the IOWEGAN BOK (book of knowledge) for the GP/SS/Redhawk series, go to rugerforum.net. It will show you how to fine tune your Ruger if you are so inclined. Edit: Sorry, I just checked availability of this fine publication but IOWEGAN, the author said he will print some again in the fall. I was going to buy one because my BOK that the author graciously sent me for free when it was still available for free, does not have the SS/Redhawk updates.
 
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