What target 22 ?

bigHUN

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I am shooting at my gun range and airguns only, all dedicated for BR. I know everything about airguns but never payed attention to firearms, so pretty much uneducated.
Friends in the club teasing me to get a .22 rifle, but my budget currently is not really in a best shape.
Also I am very anal for precision mechanics, I don't want to buy just anything.
Maybe piece buy piece to put together over a winter a good target rifle for next season.
I have a one-piece-rest for my airguns, I can duplicate one for the rimfire, so the butstock is unnecessary expense in my eyes, and also I like the chassis idea more.
Can you educate me please what parts to start with. The end result shall be to shoot up to 200 meters target rings (I have at my club 200-300 distances), and score the rings as well (I don't believe that just any barrel can do that).
 
I am shooting at my gun range and airguns only, all dedicated for BR. I know everything about airguns but never payed attention to firearms, so pretty much uneducated.
Friends in the club teasing me to get a .22 rifle, but my budget currently is not really in a best shape.
Also I am very anal for precision mechanics, I don't want to buy just anything.
Maybe piece buy piece to put together over a winter a good target rifle for next season.
I have a one-piece-rest for my airguns, I can duplicate one for the rimfire, so the butstock is unnecessary expense in my eyes, and also I like the chassis idea more.
Can you educate me please what parts to start with. The end result shall be to shoot up to 200 meters target rings (I have at my club 200-300 distances), and score the rings as well (I don't believe that just any barrel can do that).

from what you described I feel like I know you.
I may have sat beside you the other day when you were shooting your airgun, I was having fun with my 22lr.

to end up shooting 200-300 meters distance is a pretty serious business. As you said not all the action/barrel will do.

unless you want spend big $$$$, stay away from those semi-customized ones like rimx, vudoo, start with something simple for example CZ 457 LPR. The stock is not ###y looking but it doesn't matter to you since you will BR shoot it with a one-piece rest.

Assuming you have a good scope already, the rifle costs you less than 1500, and you are good to go to start at 100 meter and end up with 200.
 
Are the only difference between cz 457 mtr and lrp the stock, fluted barrel and compensator? If so, do you think its worth the extra 600$?

from what you described I feel like I know you.
I may have sat beside you the other day when you were shooting your airgun, I was having fun with my 22lr.

to end up shooting 200-300 meters distance is a pretty serious business. As you said not all the action/barrel will do.

unless you want spend big $$$$, stay away from those semi-customized ones like rimx, vudoo, start with something simple for example CZ 457 LPR. The stock is not ###y looking but it doesn't matter to you since you will BR shoot it with a one-piece rest.

Assuming you have a good scope already, the rifle costs you less than 1500, and you are good to go to start at 100 meter and end up with 200.
 
How do you figure a $600 difference?
You can find the LRP for $1399 and a 20” MTR will set you back $999
The 25 Moa rail alone is $89.99 which doesn’t come with the MTR.
 
I bought mine for 820 couple of months back, still see them go on sale for 850

What barrel length? I bought my 16" MTR for $850 2 weeks ago.
For what it's worth that price was for old stock with a 2020 mfg date.
Try to find one today for less than $999

There is a brand new LRP out there for $1,199 that was ordered without a brake.
 
You can order a brake from cz parts dot com fyi, I did for my mtr and it showed up a couple of weeks later. Kinda wish I got the 16, 20 is a bit heavy
Actually 16" is 850 right now at Tenda, not even a sale price.
 
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What about the barrel length? Also if I find some BR rifle second hand shall I assume the rifling is worn out? A friend of my is telling me the 22's doesn't worn - but he is not a shooter he's just like to collect.
He was offering me an other day some Savage heavy barrel - I don't know if any good I am illiterate with this thing....he told me I can take it apart and do whatever I want with it. He probably never put a bullet through.

Back to barrel length. I have two airguns with 700mm liner = 27.56" and the rifling 1:19 and 1:27. Those doesn't worn out quickly. This year so far I put well over 7K shots in both, last year over 10K.
What is the optimum 22 barrel length and twist rate for hitting long range targets - accurately?
 
You can order a brake from cz parts dot com fyi, I did for my mtr and it showed up a couple of weeks later. Kinda wish I got the 16, 20 is a bit heavy
Actually 16" is 850 right now at Tenda, not even a sale price.

That's where I got mine 2 weeks ago.
I couldn't find it on their site today.
That's their last one and it's a 2020 rifle.
 
...start with something simple for example CZ 457 LPR. The stock is not ###y looking but it doesn't matter to you since you will BR shoot it with a one-piece rest....

Is it possible to attach a arca rail to that stock? I think the front screw is for bipod, but I don't like underside mount -bipods because of CG. I do have one over the barrel but that is again different story.
My one-piece-rest has a arca clamp at front and a "V" rail at the back.
I can see the LPR has a rear picatinny. I shall be able to measure up the height and maybe replace the picatinny with a sled, and I can reuse the same rest between my FX Impact and the CZ 457 LPR.
 
Is it possible to attach a arca rail to that stock? I think the front screw is for bipod, but I don't like underside mount -bipods because of CG. I do have one over the barrel but that is again different story.
My one-piece-rest has a arca clamp at front and a "V" rail at the back.
I can see the LPR has a rear picatinny. I shall be able to measure up the height and maybe replace the picatinny with a sled, and I can reuse the same rest between my FX Impact and the CZ 457 LPR.

to answer your questions altogether.
I don't think you can mount a ARCA rail to CZ LPR stock, I never tried. That front screw I assume is sling stud or some sort. If you are certain you will do BR shoot only with a nice one-piece rest, then don't worry about the undermount bipod. ARCA rail under forend of the stock or chassis is usually seen at somewhat higher end chassis like KRG whiskey, MPA BA Comp or MDT ACC. But those chassis alone costs more than 1500, which I doubt you are willing to spend.

As for barrel length, it doesn't really matter too much for 22lr. I have seen long ones like 24 or 26 inches. Or as short as 14 inch. To me 20 to 24 inch is a sweet spot, it's more of an aesthetic concern rather than a performance issue.

For twist, usually it's 1:16, that is on my Vudoo, Anschutz and CZ. But I have a PVA barrel for RimX that is 1:12. Again, it doesn't really matter too much for a small bullet like that.

I haven't shot enough to wear out a barrel yet. Of all my 5 22lr rifles I have shot more than 10,000 rounds in total. They are still fine.
 
I am 100% sure I will shoot paper targets and BR only with a rimfire.

I don't hunt anymore or that will be with bow and arrow. (Last time about ten years ago I bought in some really big wild smell in the house my Boss wanted to separate me...and the problem with that is my mom didn't tech me how to cook :) )

The LPR rear stock otherwise looks easy to work with, only to figure the front.
 
I am 100% sure I will shoot paper targets and BR only with a rimfire.

I don't hunt anymore or that will be with bow and arrow. (Last time about ten years ago I bought in some really big wild smell in the house my Boss wanted to separate me...and the problem with that is my mom didn't tech me how to cook :) )

The LPR rear stock otherwise looks easy to work with, only to figure the front.

It is easy enough to add an Arca rail to almost any stock with some T-nuts and/or some imagination.
 
I am shooting at my gun range and airguns only,....
Maybe piece buy piece to put together over a winter a good target rifle for next season.
I have a one-piece-rest for my airguns, I can duplicate one for the rimfire, so the butstock is unnecessary expense in my eyes, and also I like the chassis idea more.

Can you educate me please what parts to start with. The end result shall be to shoot up to 200 meters target rings (I have at my club 200-300 distances), ... (I don't believe that just any barrel can do that).

There are full bore shooters who have identical stocks on their small bore rifles - train once and train often. So, there is merit in standardizing. You'll then have to remember not to bring your .22 to the 1000-yd match!

Which one to choose? Remember that precision shooting is like every competitive sports equipment race. Every year someone will have the hot gun or hot widget that solves THEIR problems, and they'll tell everyone. That supplier will sell out and the cycle continues to whatever the next game changer is. If you think you can tolerate last year's tech' I suggest buying behind the curve and taking parts off the hardchargers who are chasing that last percentage improvement on their game. Do I have any suggested models? No. They really do all look the same to me. What you want to avoid is buying a rifle or a barrel in particular that has had all the X's shot out, and won't hold the rings anymore. Too many times newcomers get roped into buying someone's second or third piece because it is a good deal, and they're uncompetitive. It happens in every competitive equipment sport.
 
I am shooting at my gun range and airguns only, all dedicated for BR. I know everything about airguns but never payed attention to firearms, so pretty much uneducated.
Friends in the club teasing me to get a .22 rifle, but my budget currently is not really in a best shape.
Also I am very anal for precision mechanics, I don't want to buy just anything.
Maybe piece buy piece to put together over a winter a good target rifle for next season.
I have a one-piece-rest for my airguns, I can duplicate one for the rimfire, so the butstock is unnecessary expense in my eyes, and also I like the chassis idea more.
Can you educate me please what parts to start with. The end result shall be to shoot up to 200 meters target rings (I have at my club 200-300 distances), and score the rings as well (I don't believe that just any barrel can do that).

I'm sure rimfire feels like a big step-up (power/range) from the airguns the OP has experience with, but it might be worth considering whether or not 22LR is a good "200 meter" gun. Ringing gongs=sure. Decent groups? Obviously, fun is what you make it so this is no criticism of the plan...but in my opinion..22LR is a 75-100 yard at the top end unless I'm lobbing them at gophers. Most of my 22 shooting is @ 50 yards, and that's a ranged 50 yards. lol

I 100% believe a 22LR bolt action (and a good one) is a great idea, and definitely a good starting point if long range shooting is the end goal. I know for me, I'm glad an Anschutz 64 was NOT my first bolt action, I spent a couple of decades shooting lesser rifles, and teaching myself how to make them do what I wanted.

On the other hand, maybe if a 64 WAS my first rifle, it wouldn't have taken so long to get where I think I am now. lol

My suggestion for the OP=get behind a few 22s and try them out. Certain models (regardless of $) just feel better than others, and not all 22s are created equal. Good thing is, if you handle a CZ 457, Tikka T1x, Anschutz, Savage, Marlin...you don't have to be a 22LR expert to see/feel very obvious differences. Still, I'd be seeing opportunities to "try before I buy".
 
......

For twist, usually it's 1:16, that is on my Vudoo, Anschutz and CZ. But I have a PVA barrel for RimX that is 1:12. Again, it doesn't really matter too much for a small bullet like that.

I haven't shot enough to wear out a barrel yet. Of all my 5 22lr rifles I have shot more than 10,000 rounds in total. They are still fine.

A few questions about ammunition - what brand(s) do your rifles like? We know most rifles are brand sensitive for all kinds of reasons. Your experience might be instructive. Secondly, I remember a little sliding wedge rim thickness gauge advertised in the old Champions Choice catalogues. There was a hole for the cartridge, and a very carefully machined bar that slid over the base to measure the rim. In theory it was to sort the outliers for an even more consistent central tendency. It might have been like fishing lures - designed to catch customers. Have you ever examined your ammunition THAT closely?
 
I only paid 600 plus shipping for my 64. I never paid attention to round count on a 22. I know mine only has like 2 bricks thru it. I'm more than happy with it, I just gotta get more trigger time with it. It is way more accurate than me.
 
I am shooting at my gun range and airguns only, all dedicated for BR. I know everything about airguns but never payed attention to firearms, so pretty much uneducated.
Friends in the club teasing me to get a .22 rifle, but my budget currently is not really in a best shape.
Also I am very anal for precision mechanics, I don't want to buy just anything.
Maybe piece buy piece to put together over a winter a good target rifle for next season.
I have a one-piece-rest for my airguns, I can duplicate one for the rimfire, so the butstock is unnecessary expense in my eyes, and also I like the chassis idea more.
Can you educate me please what parts to start with. The end result shall be to shoot up to 200 meters target rings (I have at my club 200-300 distances), and score the rings as well (I don't believe that just any barrel can do that).

The cautions pointed to by .22LRGUY are worth taking seriously. If shooting for precision and accuracy, there are limits to the suitability of .22LR. While there are disciplines involving shooting beyond 200 yards, they invariably determine results by the number of hits on a steel target. Shooting for score with .22LR is done out to as far as 200 yards, but most often it's at 50 and 100.

For a look at what shooters posting on this forum get at 100 yards, see the currently active 100 yard challenge thread here https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...0-Yard-22LR-Challenge?p=19035249#post19035249

There are over 30 entries in this challenge which counts an average of three ten-shot groups at 100. Only three of the entries have an average under one inch. That standard is not especially easy to achieve.

If you intend to use a front rest or a one-piece rest, consider a BR-friendly stock. Chassis are often better performers with good bipods, the support with which they are most often paired.

A few questions about ammunition - what brand(s) do your rifles like? We know most rifles are brand sensitive for all kinds of reasons. Your experience might be instructive. Secondly, I remember a little sliding wedge rim thickness gauge advertised in the old Champions Choice catalogues. There was a hole for the cartridge, and a very carefully machined bar that slid over the base to measure the rim. In theory it was to sort the outliers for an even more consistent central tendency. It might have been like fishing lures - designed to catch customers. Have you ever examined your ammunition THAT closely?

Rimfire rifles are generally not ammo brand sensitive. In other words, there is no one make of ammo -- e.g. SK, Eley, Lapua, RWS -- that will always shoot better than all others. When it comes to target shooting, all match ammo makers produce batches or lots of ammo that will perform as well as the rifle allows.

Rifles with match chambers will often chamber match ammo more easily than bulk ammos or CCI SV, but that's because their chamber dimensions demand ammo that itself has more consistent dimensions. Rifles with sporter chambers will chamber all kinds of .22LR ammo, but a lot of .22LR ammo -- inexpensive, bulk, high velocity etc -- is not made for accuracy.

Sorting ammo by rim thickness is largely a waste of time and effort. Shooters looking to maximize performance with inexpensive ammo often try it as a shortcut, but very few, if any, serious .22LR shooters sort their ammo by any means -- rim thickness, weight, concentricity, or base-to-ogive length. The only sure path to improved results is getting good lots of match ammo.

The bottom line here, literally and figuratively, is that in .22LR shooting there are no shortcuts to good performance and that the only way to find best accuracy is to test different lots of match ammo.
 
A few questions about ammunition - what brand(s) do your rifles like? We know most rifles are brand sensitive for all kinds of reasons. Your experience might be instructive. Secondly, I remember a little sliding wedge rim thickness gauge advertised in the old Champions Choice catalogues. There was a hole for the cartridge, and a very carefully machined bar that slid over the base to measure the rim. In theory it was to sort the outliers for an even more consistent central tendency. It might have been like fishing lures - designed to catch customers. Have you ever examined your ammunition THAT closely?

as grauhansen pointed out correctly, there is no magic bullet when coming to 22lr.
I personally have tried more than 15 different types of ammos, some are good with some guns some time. I know it's not the answer you want to hear but it's the reality.
If I have to categorize the quality by tiers, in order of best(most consistent) to worst:
1. Lapua Midas+, Center X, SK Long Range, Eley Tenex
2. SK Rifle Match, SK Biathlon, Eley Match
3. all others

I never bother to sort ammos by rim thickness or weight of the bullet.
 
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