What tools do you use to mount your scope

I settled on the Parabola Reticle-Tru and a good inch pounds torque driver. Makes scope mounting easy, quick and accurate.

Boresight thru the bore or using a collimator, just depending. Either works well.
 
I usually figure out my eye relief, then put the rifle on my sandbags, level the gun and check with a short bubble level. Then put the scope in the rings and level it to the gun. I bore sight by pulling the bolt and lining up with a fence post or something. I've gotten lucky and had the first shot dead on at 100 yards, other times I've had to adjust it 4 or 5" at 25 yards. The last one was like that, fired 4 shots at 25 to get it lined up, then out to 300m at a gong because I didn't feel like walking out to 100m with a target in the cold.
Kristian
 
- I use a good gun vise that locks the rifle in tight.
- locktite the bases
- set the rings and mount the scope
- adjust scope for desired eye relief
- two bubble levels; one for the gun and one for the scope
- with the gun locked in level then level and tighten scope
- old Bushnell boresight tool
- first shot at 50 yds comes in close to center requiring scope adjustment
- move to 100 yds for 1/2" to 1" above bullseye.

When I get home I put the gun back in the vise and install the boresight and record the difference between original setting and final sight in setting so I know where to adjust for my next gun of this caliber.
 
hoytcanon said:
You don't need a boresighter for a bolt action rifle, just pull the bolt, sight down the barrel from the rear on a 100 yard target with your rifle propped on bags or a rest, then without moving the rifle look to see where your crosshairs are aimed and move in the direction that they are pointing, in other words if the crosshairs are aimed 12" low and 6" left, move the stadia, 48 clicks down and 24 clicks left (for scopes with 1/4" per click adjustmemt at 100 yards). This will get you on an 8.5"x11" paper at 100 and zero from there... I can usually get within 4" of the bull with this method. This is also a rough way to check your scope in the field if the rifle got bumped or jostled.
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Sighted in a new scope today on a .358 Win... the picture is of the first group @ 100 yards... initially sighted in by looking down the bore as per above. That is with a .358 bore, the smaller the bore the more accurate you can be by sighting down the bore to rough-in the scope.
 
A bore sighter is very useful in initial placement of rings and scope in a small shop environment. It is indispensable in getting scopes centred over bores.
 
Plumb Bob, or heavy weight tied to a string to level the reticle to the gun. Machinists level to level rings mounted on the gun. Scotch tape on the barrel of the scope to prevent scuffing. Wheeler Digital torque wrench to torque caps in 3 steps.

Thats all you need.
 
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Rod said:
- I use a good gun vise that locks the rifle in tight.
- locktite the bases
- set the rings and mount the scope
- adjust scope for desired eye relief
- two bubble levels; one for the gun and one for the scope
- with the gun locked in level then level and tighten scope
- old Bushnell boresight tool
- first shot at 50 yds comes in close to center requiring scope adjustment
- move to 100 yds for 1/2" to 1" above bullseye.

When I get home I put the gun back in the vise and install the boresight and record the difference between original setting and final sight in setting so I know where to adjust for my next gun of this caliber.
Click to expand...

protect the gun from the vise.
 
I use Goop under bases with blue loctite on screws. I mount rings on bases loose. Then i use a 36" wooden dowel in the rings. Torque down rings to dowel then torque rings to bases. Then check to make sure the long end of dowel is directly over the barrel. I have had to use millet adjustable rings or burris signature zee with offset inserts to bring dowel over barrel centerline. Also, for a used scope i return crosshairs to centre by counting turns from stop to stop. Was running out of clicks L-R this helped alot
 
I use the same wheeler kit that is mentioned previously. Has anyone else found that the levels aren’t accurate? If I place my levels on a level surface they will place the bubble in the centre, if turned one direction. If I flip them 180 degrees they will not centre the bubble. This means they aren’t accurate. I’ve just started shouldering the gun and adjusting as I feel necessary. Definitely use a torque wrench and blue loctite.
 
shackleford said:
I use Goop under bases with blue loctite on screws. I mount rings on bases loose. Then i use a 36" wooden dowel in the rings. Torque down rings to dowel then torque rings to bases. Then check to make sure the long end of dowel is directly over the barrel. I have had to use millet adjustable rings or burris signature zee with offset inserts to bring dowel over barrel centerline. Also, for a used scope i return crosshairs to centre by counting turns from stop to stop. Was running out of clicks L-R this helped alot
Click to expand...

To return a used scope to neutral is quite easy. Set the scope down on a mirror and look through it and you'll see two sets of crosshairs. While looking through the scope adjust it until both crosshairs become one. Now you're back where it began it's life.
 
Rifleman87 said:
I use the same wheeler kit that is mentioned previously. Has anyone else found that the levels aren’t accurate? If I place my levels on a level surface they will place the bubble in the centre, if turned one direction. If I flip them 180 degrees they will not centre the bubble. This means they aren’t accurate. I’ve just started shouldering the gun and adjusting as I feel necessary. Definitely use a torque wrench and blue loctite.
Click to expand...

You must maintain the bubble level perpendicular to the gun. Also, to check the level, I turn it 180 degrees and relieve some of the base until it reads the same if turned 180.
 
LittleBoyLefty said:
I settled on the Parabola Reticle-Tru and a good inch pounds torque driver. Makes scope mounting easy, quick and accurate.

Boresight thru the bore or using a collimator, just depending. Either works well.
Click to expand...

Well I’ll be damned if that isn’t a neat contraption. I need to get one.
 
Rod said:
To return a used scope to neutral is quite easy. Set the scope down on a mirror and look through it and you'll see two sets of crosshairs. While looking through the scope adjust it until both crosshairs become one. Now you're back where it began it's life.
Click to expand...

Do you mean put the scope objective lens down on the mirror and look through the scope at the mirror?

That's quite the idea! I might have to try that with my next used scope.
 
Suther said:
Do you mean put the scope objective lens down on the mirror and look through the scope at the mirror?

That's quite the idea! I might have to try that with my next used scope.
Click to expand...

Yes, look through the ocular lens. You may have to shine some light onto the mirror with a flashlight depending on the mirror and the available light. A mirror without a frame works best and no need to shine extra light. If you have an extra scope laying around, give it a try.
 
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