Winterproofing an AR 10

Mine does, but I dont run a muzzle device. Burned through a whole 'battle' pack of surpluss in one sitting no problems. Was having ejection issues the second outing, but I also added a muzzle brake. after adding the o rings back in and still having issues I removed the brake and the o rings again and it's all good....

The brake also caused the charging handle to pop out at random lol.... massively weird gas pulses comming back down the bbl I guess???
 
Mine does, but I dont run a muzzle device. Burned through a whole 'battle' pack of surpluss in one sitting no problems. Was having ejection issues the second outing, but I also added a muzzle brake. after adding the o rings back in and still having issues I removed the brake and the o rings again and it's all good....

The brake also caused the charging handle to pop out at random lol.... massively weird gas pulses comming back down the bbl I guess???

What muzzle device were you using?
 
Will the Stag 10 extractor work properly without the rubber o ring

The only problem you may have is poor extraction. If you (or me when I test it) have issues with FTEs without the ring but also FTFs with the ring maybe look for a new extractor?

It's easy enough to take the bolt apart. I'm just going to bring the rings with me next time and I'll put one back in if I have a problem.
 
I was going through my bicycle lubricants the other day and came across my chain lube (white lightning) it is a wax based lubricant that goes on wet and drys quickly. Any dirt or grime that sticks to it the wax flakes and falls off. Never seen a chain so clean after a season of riding in all conditions (wet, dry, dusty etc.) I might try to run this in my Diemaco surplus upper.

Has anyone tried anything similar? Im curious if it will stand up.
 
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Question fellow gunnutz...
I have yet to finish my Stag-10 build, around the Holidays hopefully. I have read a few different opinions on a variety of websites concerning reliable operation of an AR 10 in deep freeze weather, with some wind and/or powdery snow. You know, that same cold that makes it painful to reload bare handed. I ask because I am in a tundra environment. A few firearms I already possess work without issue at -30 C (10/22 Ruger, 870 pump, 700 bolt). My Gunsite Scout was a disapointment by locking up... So, what is your experience in this kind of environment? What worked for you with an AR? What didn't with an AR? Why?
I'm open to different thoughts an opinions.

P.S. Don't eat the yellow snow.

did you clean up of all residues on and inside the bolt of the ruger one or was it something else?
 
Mine does, but I dont run a muzzle device. Burned through a whole 'battle' pack of surpluss in one sitting no problems. Was having ejection issues the second outing, but I also added a muzzle brake. after adding the o rings back in and still having issues I removed the brake and the o rings again and it's all good....

The brake also caused the charging handle to pop out at random lol.... massively weird gas pulses comming back down the bbl I guess???

Odd that a muzzle brake effected the function of your gun...is this normal? Looking at adding a Surefire to brake my Stag 10 soon and don't wanna run into any issues... :(

To add...I don't think a brake does or should but any "back pressure" down the barrel?!
 
when i moved up north almost 15 years ago i started running into problems with my AR's freezing up mid magazine, which of course shocked me!
i did a lot of research and settled with G96.
i have since then used G96 exclusively (even on my Rangers C19) and i have never had any issues with cycling or function and i shoot a lot in -30 and -40 and i have even been out in -50 just to test the stuff out.

i made a video 2 winters ago testing 4 different 22's with just their packing oil vs G96 left outside for 24 hours in -30 something and the stuff with G96 of course ran great.

my vote is G96 and that is from almost 15 years of constant testing.
plus it is easy to get.
and come on, it smells great!!!!

 
I'm another fan of G96. Wipe off any excess before heading out leaving just enough that things are coated. You don't need it dripping. When you get back in wipe off any water, snow etc.. and then reapply.
 
I live in the great white north as well OP, every time I get a new rifle I strip it down to nothing then scrub every part in brake clean to get rid of all oils then I load it up with graphite. Never had an issue with cold weather freezups. I have just finished a stag 10 build and have been running graphite in it as well well with no I'll effects. As long as you clean it off after using it near the ocean you shouldn't have galvanic corrosion issues on the aluminum parts.
 
I live in the great white north as well OP, every time I get a new rifle I strip it down to nothing then scrub every part in brake clean to get rid of all oils then I load it up with graphite. Never had an issue with cold weather freezups. I have just finished a stag 10 build and have been running graphite in it as well well with no I'll effects. As long as you clean it off after using it near the ocean you shouldn't have galvanic corrosion issues on the aluminum parts.

this is what we do for bison hunting.
 
I live in the great white north as well OP, every time I get a new rifle I strip it down to nothing then scrub every part in brake clean to get rid of all oils then I load it up with graphite. Never had an issue with cold weather freezups. I have just finished a stag 10 build and have been running graphite in it as well well with no I'll effects. As long as you clean it off after using it near the ocean you shouldn't have galvanic corrosion issues on the aluminum parts.
The only problem I see with this is to ensure you're using a non-chlorinated brake cleaner... Graphite can cause corrosion to aluminum in the presence of some ions, particularly chlorine. Just some food for thought from my various random reading
 
G96 has a product in a bottle not an aerosol can. Is it the same as stuff in aerosol or different And does it have that distinct smell
 
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