I believe when they made Wipe Out they made it with preservatives intentionally so you did not have to do the procedure of oiling your bore after dry patching it clean...and then patching it dry again before shooting... as target shooters have had to do with previous cleaner as Sweet's 7.62... it left the bore with no preservatives and the bore would rust easily after cleaning... this is where the oiling procedure originated... and not necessary when using Wipe Out but it is the owners choice of what to do...
Wipe out bore cleaner
- Thread starter ajax
- Start date
I like wipe out. I usually foam the barrel from the muzzle, but use a bore guide to keep the foam out of the important parts, the foam will go all the way out the end of the bore guide and you know the barrel is full. After a few min. I pull out the bore guide to drip dry. I let the barrel sit for 1 -2 hours, then wire it out, patch it out, then foam it again and leave it overnight. Keep it away from aluminum muzzle brakes or any other aluminum. The next day I go through other processes to make sure its good, and always patch G96 through it at the end.
After many, many years of using Wipe-Out, I have never encountered any issues with rust. As others have said, I just patch-out and leave as is. Right on the label it states "Wipe-Out cannot cause rust", "Do not put oil in the bore", "Wipe-Out contains a powerful anti-corrosive that prevents rust".
Maybe it's all lies and I've just been lucky here on the wet coast but it works for me. Perhaps the confusion comes from the use of ammonia based copper fouling removers? Definitely oil the bore after using a ammonia based cleaner.
Maybe it's all lies and I've just been lucky here on the wet coast but it works for me. Perhaps the confusion comes from the use of ammonia based copper fouling removers? Definitely oil the bore after using a ammonia based cleaner.
I don’t know I have used this product to on this same firearm for a long time but maybe over the years it is now susceptible to rusting? I like a lot you guys have never had a problem up until now and now have lost confidence in this product getting into places where it shouldn’t be that I never worried about before.
I had my Tikka rebarrelled with a new Krieger barrel by Terry at Black Art Rifles. I asked him what to do with the new barrel and what to clean it with. His comment was
1) Barrel break in - avoid getting the barrel hot
2) Keep the barrel clean for the first 20-30 shots
3) After that shoot normally
To clean he said he prefers Wipeout as it does a good job and he found if he got some on the wood stock it would not damage the finish which as a professional he always worries about.
I have used Wipe out on all my guns since then and find it does a great job. But I do run a patch with Ballistol down it after cleaning and shot it without running a dry patch down.
1) Barrel break in - avoid getting the barrel hot
2) Keep the barrel clean for the first 20-30 shots
3) After that shoot normally
To clean he said he prefers Wipeout as it does a good job and he found if he got some on the wood stock it would not damage the finish which as a professional he always worries about.
I have used Wipe out on all my guns since then and find it does a great job. But I do run a patch with Ballistol down it after cleaning and shot it without running a dry patch down.
coleman1495
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Whitecourt
Are you 100% sure that its rust in the action? Wipe-Out can leave a brown residue that looks a lot like rust. I bet another solvent makes the “rust” disappear.
I am pretty sure it was the foam backing out of the barrel and sitting in the action before barrel. Also when I took the McMillan stock off I could see rust residual underneath the action area on the stock that I wiped away. Talked to the gun store about it and he said he has a heard a few guys saying that they think I might cause rust. I think a person still has to be careful after use of this product.
coleman1495
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Whitecourt
Just for craps and chuckles, apply more wipe out to the rust spots. See if they don’t wipe off after.
It just surprises me because I’ve used wipeout for years and never seen any evidence that it was corrosive.
I use Wipe Out regularly to clean the rust spots of rifles and handguns.
The only issue with it is that it dissolves the ''oxidized rust residue'' right to the bare metal and if any pitting has occurred, they are exposed. Bluing will stain them, but it won't fill them in.
000000 steel wool, soaked with Wipe Out is one of the quickest ways out there to clean up rusty spots.
I had one fellow tell me there wasn't any pitting, because it was just "surface rust" I told him that he should just clean it up himself, with some six ought steel wool and deisel fuel.
He came back a few days later and claimed the ''deisel fuel'' had created the pits that were now evident.
Always insert a longer piece of plastic tubing (about 8 inches) that jams up into the neck area of the chamber and leave it there for 10 minutes or so after applying the wipe out expanding foam... let it expand out the muzzle and it stops expanding in a few minutes... then remove the can with the tubing on it and push all the wipe out in the barrel out the muzzle.
Wipe out does not cause rust and has rust preventatives in it...
. What I do is give the Wipeout a short squirt, not enough to fill the bore, then push it in from the muzzle with a patch. I turn the rifle vertical with the Cleaning rod handle on the floor and let the rifle settle towards the floor till foam appears in the chamber. Then pull out the rod with the rifle butt still held high and the foam will follow back down to the muzzle coating it evenly. Even better use patchout instead of wipeout. I use a coated Dewey rod.
I've used wipeout for years with no issues, IMO its the best way to get rid of copper fouling. Spray leave for a few hours and then I swab it out with a few patches followed by a boresnake just incase I missed anything, works like a charm. I'd say your rust is coming from something else, or was already existing.
Wipeout bore cleaner can damage wood finishes
WipeOut CAN damage the finish on wood stocks.
I have two wood stocks with finish damaged by Wipeout contacting stock. I will not use it on wood stocked rifles. Do so at your own risk.Perhaps wood stocks with that shiny polyurethane finish can handle it.
WipeOut CAN damage the finish on wood stocks.
I have two wood stocks with finish damaged by Wipeout contacting stock. I will not use it on wood stocked rifles. Do so at your own risk.Perhaps wood stocks with that shiny polyurethane finish can handle it.
What I do is simple! I take a used brass case, that is the caliber for the rifle. With the brass put through a sizer Die to get rid of the primer.
I take that brass and drill a 3/32nd drill bit into the flash hole of the brass. Which is the same size as the spray straw they send with foam wipeout.
Put it in the chamber and with a little pressure against the brass, spray until it come out of the muzzle. No mess in the chamber to clean up!!!!!Works great!!!! Give that a try! You won't go back to the old way!
I take that brass and drill a 3/32nd drill bit into the flash hole of the brass. Which is the same size as the spray straw they send with foam wipeout.
Put it in the chamber and with a little pressure against the brass, spray until it come out of the muzzle. No mess in the chamber to clean up!!!!!Works great!!!! Give that a try! You won't go back to the old way!
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HAHAHAHA!!! damn- how do you even start...
