WK-180c alternative handguards

True North Arms Corp

CGN frequent flyer
Business Member
Rating - 99.1%
110   1   1
Location
GTA
We're getting a lot of questions about replacement WK-180c handguards. These two handguards are tested to fit over the WK's larger gas block.

Some folks are getting away with sliding these right onto the WK's barrel nut. For optimal rigidity you might need to use the barrel nut that comes with the handguard.

Lots of colour and length options up to 17".


Super M-LOK Handguard

https://truenortharms.com/ar15_default_store_view/super-m-lok-handguard-easy-install.html





Super Keymod Handguard (Easy-Install)

https://truenortharms.com/ar15_default_store_view/super-keymod-handguard-easy-install.html

 
I really, really like the stock handguard. I just wish it was a couple of inches longer. Any chance Wolverine/Kodiak will offer a longer version of the stock handguard as an aftermarket item in the future?
 
Has anyone actually fitted an aftermarket barrel nut? My Wk180c's barrel nut threads are completely out of spec and I'm too afraid of cross threading the receiver threads.
 
Anyone successfully removed the factory hand guard?

Yes, no problems. 3mm allen. Some got shipped with blue loctite on the screws (my early rifle did).

Heat them up a bit with a heat gun or hair dryer if they won't move.
 
Last edited:
Has anyone successfully change out the barrel nut?

Yes but it required extreme force as they must've overtorqued it from the factory. It was a total ##### to remove. Same thing as threading on the replacement barrel nut. You will feel some resistance and think that the threads are wrong, but it's just the anodizing on the WK just a bit too thick. I was able to thread on a standard AR nut and torqued to spec (about 35 ft/lb)
 
Yes but it required extreme force as they must've overtorqued it from the factory. It was a total ##### to remove. Same thing as threading on the replacement barrel nut. You will feel some resistance and think that the threads are wrong, but it's just the anodizing on the WK just a bit too thick. I was able to thread on a standard AR nut and torqued to spec (about 35 ft/lb)

Thank you! You are the first person on this forum to actually answer my question!
 
Thank you! You are the first person on this forum to actually answer my question!

This is a Troy rail that uses a standard AR barrel nut.
39856885143_f3c42072b8_h.jpg
 
I got it off but I had to bring out the dremel to get the last bolt off and I was as careful as can be getting them off and still stripped one of them
 
It's a Troy Alpha Battlerail. Yes modifications are needed but i just used a dremel and a lot of patience lol. I had to:

- trimmed off the one anti rotation pin on the left side of the rail, 1 minute
- trimmed off 2 tabs on the standard AR barrel nut so that the gas piston spring clears the nut, 5 mins
- opened up the top about 8 rail slots. 3 hours
- put on 2 coats of engine enamel on any bare metal surface
- put rail cover on opened top section to prevent fingers touching the gas block

The gas/piston block is now free float and doesn't touch anything. Also made a little aluminum heat/gas shield on the rail cover
31955556677_bb5cc1163e_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
It's a Troy Alpha Battlerail. Yes modifications are needed but i just used a dremel and a lot of patience lol. I had to:

- trimmed off the one anti rotation pin on the left side of the rail, 1 minute
- trimmed off 2 tabs on the standard AR barrel nut so that the gas piston spring clears the nut, 5 mins
- opened up the top about 8 rail slots. 3 hours
- put on 2 coats of engine enamel on any bare metal surface
- put rail cover on opened top section to prevent fingers touching the gas block

The gas/piston block is now free float and doesn't touch anything.
39878696143_51383f6f91_c.jpg

That's dedication!
 
Where did you get that deflector?

From a CGN member named "drift117". He designed and 3d printed them from the states. Pretty strong material and shows no marks after about 300 rounds.

I made further "enhancement" to it by locking it down with a screw and very thin bolt inside of the receiver - there's a bit of room in there. No interference to the bolt carrier and is not a modification to the rifle.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom