WK180C Gen 2 or something else?

I chose the Keltec RDB instead of the Gen 2 WK and I'm glad i did, Accurate compact and nice trigger. Haven't had one FTF with about 300rds so far.
 
I chose the Keltec RDB instead of the Gen 2 WK and I'm glad i did, Accurate compact and nice trigger. Haven't had one FTF with about 300rds so far.

I like my RDB. The trigger is excellent. I just ordered an X95 and I am not looking forward to the ####e trigger pull. :(

My RDB was doubling the last time I shot it. Checked the firing pin and not broken. Gave it a cursory cleaning and a bit more gas and we'll see how she goes? RDB's have had longish list of mechanical issues in the past.

Downsides to the RDB. It's not a military spec rifle. It failed the "mud test" spectacularly and has to get field stripped if any mud / muck / debris gets into the action via the ejection port. The entire rifle is built on the barrel as the backbone, which is both innovative and weird.
 
Noob? I've been shooting for 36 years.

We paid $1200 for a WK180. X95's are running close to $3k. That is almost exactly 2.5x the cost.

I wasn't trying to "run down" the X95. I purchased a LH bolt for the Tavor, just in case I decide I need one in the future. Saying the Tavor has a crap trigger is simply speaking the truth. If you think the Tavor trigger is fine then you don't know what a good trigger is.

As a lefty, I have spent my 36 years in the gun community adapting to firearms not designed for me. I have competed in IPSC, Service Rifle and long range competition. I have also placed hits on a target further than anyone you know.

Cost is always relevant when you have to pay with your own money.

And in 36 years of shooting all that culminates into advising the OP into wasting money on a garbage rod over better options? You must have been shooting crack instead of guns with advice like that. I'm guessing reading isn't a strong point either; I will reiterate the fact you can find the X95 for up to $500.00 less than the $3000.00 you've said if you hit a sale or buy one lightly used privately. Last time I seen a WK180 gen two in a store they were around $1600.00. The X95 trigger isn't bad enough like the original TAVOR was to constitute telling the OP the trigger is horrendous. It is much lighter and less mushy than the original, and unless you're a manlet who has a grip like a wet noodle it will work great for its intended purpose.

Don't talk to me about what a good trigger is and isn't when you're out here recommending garbage rods; I have a geissele in almost everything I own that can physically take one and a volquartsen in my PC. Unless you're shooting over 2500m let's not go there with who's shot further than anyone I know...you may find yourself eating your words in a major way.
 
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And in 36 years of shooting all that culminates into advising the OP into wasting money on a garbage rod over better options? You must have been shooting crack instead of guns with advice like that. I'm guessing eading isn't a strong point either; I will reiterate the fact you can find the X95 for up to $500.00 less than the $3000.00 you've said if you hit a sale or buy one lightly used privately. Last time I seen a WK180 gen two in a store they were around $1600.00. The X95 trigger isn't bad enough like the original TAVOR was to constitute telling the OP the trigger is horrendous. It is much lighter and less mushy than the original, and unless you're a manlet who has a grip like a wet noodle it will work great for its intended purpose.

Don't talk to me about what a good trigger is and isn't when you're out here recommending garbage rods; I have a geissele in almost everything I own that can physically take one and a volquartsen in my PC. Unless you're shooting over 2500m let's not go there with who's shot further than anyone I know...you may find yourself eating your words in a major way.

Aren't you fun :(
 
you can find the X95 for up to $500.00 less than the $3000.00 you've said if you hit a sale or buy one lightly used privately. Last time I seen a WK180 gen two in a store they were around $1600.00. The X95 trigger isn't bad enough like the original TAVOR was to constitute telling the OP the trigger is horrendous. It is much lighter and less mushy than the original, and unless you're a manlet who has a grip like a wet noodle it will work great for its intended purpose.

I'd agree with all of this. The difference in price between the latest WK180s and the X95s I've seen for sale lately is more like a thousand bucks, not "2.5X", and the X95 trigger isn't fantastic, but it's not terrible... it IS considerably better than the original TAR21.
 
Aren't you fun :(

I'm good at parties :)

I'd agree with all of this. The difference in price between the latest WK180s and the X95s I've seen for sale lately is more like a thousand bucks, not "2.5X", and the X95 trigger isn't fantastic, but it's not terrible... it IS considerably better than the original TAR21.

I went with the lightning bow and super sabra in my TAR 21 and I couldn't have it any other way. The X95 trigger pack to me just doesn't tip the scales to spend that kind of money to replace it with the geissele components. That $1000 difference really isn't much of a difference for a rifle that will last 100,000 rounds versus one that comes from factory with issues.
 
Pulled my WK180C apart tonight and discovered a few interesting things.

First, I thought I likely had a Gen2, when in fact I have a Gen1. :(

As reported by others, most of the screws holding the forend in place were loose, with several being really loose. The two gas block setscrews were barely hand tight and the big setscrew holding the gas block together was also loose. Would seem nobody in the factory knows how to tighten a screw?

At first I thought the gas block had begun to move forward but when I removed the gas block I discovered the barrel had been "dimpled". Actually the dimples had been made by plunging an end mill into the barrel so they are pretty pronounced (which is fine, just not what I would have expected or done). Interestingly the dimpling was done after the barrel had been finished as the dimples are raw steel.

I will put everything back together correctly and just keep an eye on things to try to prevent issues occurring. The heavily dimpled gas block seat pretty much guarantees the gas block cannot move in any direction, which would seem to have been the major problem w these rifles.

Does anyone know if the TNA adjustable gas block screw works with the Gen1 gas block? Or does it only fit the Gen2 gas block?
 
Pulled my WK180C apart tonight and discovered a few interesting things.

First, I thought I likely had a Gen2, when in fact I have a Gen1. :(

As reported by others, most of the screws holding the forend in place were loose, with several being really loose. The two gas block setscrews were barely hand tight and the big setscrew holding the gas block together was also loose. Would seem nobody in the factory knows how to tighten a screw?

At first I thought the gas block had begun to move forward but when I removed the gas block I discovered the barrel had been "dimpled". Actually the dimples had been made by plunging an end mill into the barrel so they are pretty pronounced (which is fine, just not what I would have expected or done). Interestingly the dimpling was done after the barrel had been finished as the dimples are raw steel.

I will put everything back together correctly and just keep an eye on things to try to prevent issues occurring. The heavily dimpled gas block seat pretty much guarantees the gas block cannot move in any direction, which would seem to have been the major problem w these rifles.

Does anyone know if the TNA adjustable gas block screw works with the Gen1 gas block? Or does it only fit the Gen2 gas block?

Honestly... tighten it up an get rid of it... been down this rabbit hole and it only leads to disappointment...
 
Thats not the point...

It is the point.

Being a mechanic, I hear all the excuses of the machinery not working, all because the owners are total end-users, that don't do a lick of anything, to maintain their machines.

The first thing I did to my Kodiak Gen-1, was totally dissassemble it, and re-build it propperly. It has worked flawlessly it's whole life so far.

Point is, wheather a low-cost or high-dollar machine, they must be maintained propperly. Every machine I own, is stripped down and re-built by me. I am the warranty.
 
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