Just slapped on my first leupold B&C scope (3.5-10x40) and wondering what people’s favourite methods of zeroing this reticle and tracking down your subtensions. Yes I know there is a manual and I’ve read it, but there are a few ways to skin a cat. (Calling all Doglegs)
Zeroing a leupold B&C reticle
- Thread starter Slimbo
- Start date
I started using a common sighting in procedure 2 years after I started hunting, and have
continued to use it, regardless of chambering or scope reticule.
[Exception is lever actions chambered in 30-30, 38-55, etc...usually have aperture sights on these]
I sight in +3" at 100, even with the B&C equipped scopes. Then I move out to see where
the lower stadia actually shoot POA. Many rifles this is about 400 yards, so no issues out
to about as far as I care to shoot at game. Dave.
continued to use it, regardless of chambering or scope reticule.
[Exception is lever actions chambered in 30-30, 38-55, etc...usually have aperture sights on these]
I sight in +3" at 100, even with the B&C equipped scopes. Then I move out to see where
the lower stadia actually shoot POA. Many rifles this is about 400 yards, so no issues out
to about as far as I care to shoot at game. Dave.
Here is a tip, same way for sighting crossbows:
Zero the scope at 100 yards.
Shoot the scope at a 400 yard target, still using the 100 yard (main) cross hair.
Draw a nice bold horizontal marker line where the verticle center of your group is.
Now, still from 400 yards, using a gun vice, lead sled, etc, line up the main reticle (100 yard) with the bullseye, and compare your bold marker line to the B&C lines. If you change the zoom power of your scope, at some point the distance between the bullseye and the marker line will become perfect to the 400 yard line. At that zoom magnification your scope is correct for the hold over.
Zero the scope at 100 yards.
Shoot the scope at a 400 yard target, still using the 100 yard (main) cross hair.
Draw a nice bold horizontal marker line where the verticle center of your group is.
Now, still from 400 yards, using a gun vice, lead sled, etc, line up the main reticle (100 yard) with the bullseye, and compare your bold marker line to the B&C lines. If you change the zoom power of your scope, at some point the distance between the bullseye and the marker line will become perfect to the 400 yard line. At that zoom magnification your scope is correct for the hold over.
That would work but you would be better off with a creedmoor (ideally ceracoated), vortex with turrets, and of course vld’s. If you really want to take it to the next level, you should also grow a man bun and watch a lot of long range pursuit.
Ford Pinto and Chevy Vega too ! 
RJ
RJ
Growing up on Jack O'Connor it was inevitable that 3" high was going to be forever part of my psyche. I was able to eventually see certain advantages to BDC scopes with a 200 yard zero but still occasionally feel like a heathen for leaving so much MPBR on the table.
My favourite way of dealing with that is teaming a B&C reticle with cartridges that can support a 300 yard zero. That aligns the two world views nicely; although some might see that as matching ten years ago with 70 years ago. With a .257 Weatherby, 270 Weatherby, 270 WSM, 7-300 Win, 7 STW, 28 Nosler, 6.5-300 Win and 300 with the right loads and bullets that will give me 300, 400, 500, 600 and coast in at 650 at the infinity pin. Top of the back hold will make that an even 700. It's a pretty good, fast system for those situations where you have a hillside full of undesired grass eaters all hellbent on getting out of Dodge.
Leupold B&C, Varmint and Long Range reticle scopes are my favorite.
Depending on the power of the cartridge I'm shooting is how I zero them but most are set up @ 1 3/4" high at 100 yards or dead on at 200 yards I then shoot them to figure out the distances each line/dot is zero'ed.
Examples
My 375RUM with a VX3 4.5-14x40mm B&C reticle scope loaded with 260gr Accubonds @ 3020fps is zero'ed dead on at 200 yards the second reticle line down is dead on @ 460 yards.
My 21" barreled T/C Contender carbine in 375JDJ loaded with a Vari X 111 2.5-8x36mm B&C scope with 260gr Accubonds @ 2300fps is zero'ed 1" high at 100 yards the first line down is 1" high at 200 yards and the second line down is dead on @ 300 yards.
Depending on the power of the cartridge I'm shooting is how I zero them but most are set up @ 1 3/4" high at 100 yards or dead on at 200 yards I then shoot them to figure out the distances each line/dot is zero'ed.
Examples
My 375RUM with a VX3 4.5-14x40mm B&C reticle scope loaded with 260gr Accubonds @ 3020fps is zero'ed dead on at 200 yards the second reticle line down is dead on @ 460 yards.
My 21" barreled T/C Contender carbine in 375JDJ loaded with a Vari X 111 2.5-8x36mm B&C scope with 260gr Accubonds @ 2300fps is zero'ed 1" high at 100 yards the first line down is 1" high at 200 yards and the second line down is dead on @ 300 yards.
Growing up on Jack O'Connor it was inevitable that 3" high was going to be forever part of my psyche. I was able to eventually see certain advantages to BDC scopes with a 200 yard zero but still occasionally feel like a heathen for leaving so much MPBR on the table.
My favourite way of dealing with that is teaming a B&C reticle with cartridges that can support a 300 yard zero. That aligns the two world views nicely; although some might see that as matching ten years ago with 70 years ago. With a .257 Weatherby, 270 Weatherby, 270 WSM, 7-300 Win, 7 STW, 28 Nosler, 6.5-300 Win and 300 with the right loads and bullets that will give me 300, 400, 500, 600 and coast in at 650 at the infinity pin. Top of the back hold will make that an even 700. It's a pretty good, fast system for those situations where you have a hillside full of undesired grass eaters all hellbent on getting out of Dodge.
That is a good way to go...
I basically do the same but shorten up either my cartridge or my expectations...
