alright so ive searched and googled and been trying to figure this out for the last two weeks. currently my scope is set up to hit 100 yards. the elevation is exactly where it needs to be. this would be considered zero'd correct? some of the reading i did made it seem as if people were setting their scope up so the elevation was backed all the way out at whatever their zero is. id just like a little guidance from someone who knows. and if thats not the case then im assuming you guys keep a chart for ranges and such and just bring it back to whatever the original setting was. or do you guys back the elevation all the way out and keep track of the clicks?
zeroing a scope, question
- Thread starter uchi
- Start date
Cameron SS
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ground Zero
Its usually a good idea, once you've zeroed, to count the clicks all the way down to the bottom just in case you loose your zero.
Like AKD, most scopes will let you adjust the numbers on your scope without moving the actual elevation or windage. However, its still good to do the count down in case you loose track of how many full revolutions of the turret you went.
Like AKD, most scopes will let you adjust the numbers on your scope without moving the actual elevation or windage. However, its still good to do the count down in case you loose track of how many full revolutions of the turret you went.
From everything I have read a done, zero is where the scope is such that the bullet impacts as desired (point of aim, point of impact). So the way you have it would be a 100 yard zero.
Now you can be zeroed for 100 yards, or 500 yards. Each is a zero. However on some/most scopes you can 're-set' the turret such that is reads zero on the rotation. Thus it is on target for 100 yards (100 yard zero) and your drop card reads of the number of minutes required to change from your 100 yard zero to the desired distance, so you get a point of aim, point of impact.
I personally have never counted zero as being the bottom most part of the turrent stroke. I have always used a point of aim, point of impact as my 'zero'.
Just some information for you to be sure. When you look at the trajectory, the bullet arcs up, peaks, and then begins to drop. For a good zero, it is really important to check your rifle at two distances. Try 100 and 150 or 200 yards. This will tell you it your zero is set such that the impact point is the same as that of the peak, or at least near the peak.
To give an example, my 22-250 shoots dead on for 100 yards, but is 8 inches high at 200 yards. So you can understand that the zero of the scope is not truely 100 yards, but rather 400 yards.
That is my version. Hope this helped.
Now you can be zeroed for 100 yards, or 500 yards. Each is a zero. However on some/most scopes you can 're-set' the turret such that is reads zero on the rotation. Thus it is on target for 100 yards (100 yard zero) and your drop card reads of the number of minutes required to change from your 100 yard zero to the desired distance, so you get a point of aim, point of impact.
I personally have never counted zero as being the bottom most part of the turrent stroke. I have always used a point of aim, point of impact as my 'zero'.
Just some information for you to be sure. When you look at the trajectory, the bullet arcs up, peaks, and then begins to drop. For a good zero, it is really important to check your rifle at two distances. Try 100 and 150 or 200 yards. This will tell you it your zero is set such that the impact point is the same as that of the peak, or at least near the peak.
To give an example, my 22-250 shoots dead on for 100 yards, but is 8 inches high at 200 yards. So you can understand that the zero of the scope is not truely 100 yards, but rather 400 yards.
That is my version. Hope this helped.
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
You may also be reading or seeing some information on long range scope settings where shooters are elevating the rear of the scope to allow more adjustment for drop at longer ranges, this can get you close to the end of your adjustment within the scope.
Hope this helps and doesn't hinder what you are trying to interpret.
Hope this helps and doesn't hinder what you are trying to interpret.
that makes perfect sense, all of it, infact when i went out to the 200 yard range i was hitting really high, id aim below the target and id still hit over it, yet at 100 yards i was hitting center. it seemed to hit center at 60 yards and 100, but like i said 200 it climbed high. so its good to know that i wasnt just being jerky with my shots and missing.
i checked the manual. its a bushnell banner dusk and dawn 6-12x40. now in the manual it said that i can back off the screws on the turrets about a half turn and then i can turn them to zero. but i found even with the screws backed almost all the way out it still clicks as i turn it. is that normal?
also im gonna start keeping a chart once i get the zero set. i saw a video of a guy who kept his range - click information inside of the flip cap on his scope, ive got some coming so i think im gonna do the same.
now if at 100 yards one click is 1/4 inch, at 200 yards each click would be a half inch correct?
i checked the manual. its a bushnell banner dusk and dawn 6-12x40. now in the manual it said that i can back off the screws on the turrets about a half turn and then i can turn them to zero. but i found even with the screws backed almost all the way out it still clicks as i turn it. is that normal?
also im gonna start keeping a chart once i get the zero set. i saw a video of a guy who kept his range - click information inside of the flip cap on his scope, ive got some coming so i think im gonna do the same.
now if at 100 yards one click is 1/4 inch, at 200 yards each click would be a half inch correct?
i think thats where i heard it, i remember reading a guy saying that his bullet drops several feet on really far shots and his scope couldnt compensate so he had to raise the rear
thats a good tip, ill do that as well, and atleast that way itll also give me a good idea of how much adjustment i can get out of the scope to figure out what the max range might be for it
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
Try find a ballistics program like Sierra Infinity or similar, it is a good resource to play with to learn bullet flight, adjustments and environmental factors.
yup i think you mentioned the sierra program to me a while back, or atleast someone did. i know i found an online program and the options to choose from in there made me feel like i was doing advanced trig calculations on my fingers. lol
I'm not an expert, but I have a Bushnell Elite 3200, and after zeroing my scope, I also wanted to adjust the indicator on the turrets. I loosened the two little screws so that I could make it read zero. Once you loosen the screws, don't touch the little dial you would normally use to move the reticle, but instead, move the little bezel that has the zero indicator on it. Just make the zero point on the bezel line up with the little dot on the actual scope, then tighten the two little screws.
I hope this solves your problem, if not, just ignore this post.
I hope this solves your problem, if not, just ignore this post.
Very valuable piece of advice right there.
see the banner might be a little different. i just tried to do it this way and the ring wouldnt turn. mind you the scope is new so maybe its a little tight, ill play with it some more that way. although the manual is specific, it says, loosen the philips screw on the adjustment scale about 1/2 turn, rotate the adjustment scale ring.
yup there it is, youre right, i read it 100 times and as i wrote it out i see it now, i missed ring. now it makes sense, im gonna get a good grip on it and twist that bastard, thanks again for all the help guys, its very much appreciated
alright im lost. it wont turn by hand, so i grabbed a pair of pliers and gently moved it, which made the ring turn, but the ring and turret are turning at the same time no mater how loose i get the screws that loosen the adjustment scale.
alright so you were on the right page, when i tried to force that bezel it would turn everything. the isntructions are complete crap and make it seem like the bezel moves by calling it the adjustment scale ring. you actually have to take a tiny flat head screw driver and free the little plate that has the marks on it and move that and not the ring like the make it seem. of course you cant do that by hand at all and even with the dial off the little plate with the markings on it still wont move. yeah so that mystery is solved.
If you have to force it you're doing it wrong. Careful.
Just to expand on a few things and to answer a few of your questions...
Yes you are correct. If your scope adjustments are 1 click at 100 yards = 1/4" then yes 1 click at 200 yards = 1/2". Are you familiar with Minute of Angle? Basically 1 MOA at 100 yards = 1", 1 MOA at 200 yards = 2", 1 MOA at 350 yards = 3.5', 1 MOA at 800 yards = 8" and so on and so on. Your scope has 1/4 MOA adjustments so say 1 click at 400 yards would = 1", 2 clicks at 650 yards = 3.25" etc, etc.
What type of shooting are you planning on doing with your rifle/scope combo? Depending on what calibre your rifle is and if you're planning to hunt or target shoot will determine what a practical zero is for your rifle. If you're target shooting go ahead, find the trajectory for your load and keep track of the clicks for a given range. If you're hunting that changes things. I can expand on that if you wish.
Just to expand on a few things and to answer a few of your questions...
Yes you are correct. If your scope adjustments are 1 click at 100 yards = 1/4" then yes 1 click at 200 yards = 1/2". Are you familiar with Minute of Angle? Basically 1 MOA at 100 yards = 1", 1 MOA at 200 yards = 2", 1 MOA at 350 yards = 3.5', 1 MOA at 800 yards = 8" and so on and so on. Your scope has 1/4 MOA adjustments so say 1 click at 400 yards would = 1", 2 clicks at 650 yards = 3.25" etc, etc.
What type of shooting are you planning on doing with your rifle/scope combo? Depending on what calibre your rifle is and if you're planning to hunt or target shoot will determine what a practical zero is for your rifle. If you're target shooting go ahead, find the trajectory for your load and keep track of the clicks for a given range. If you're hunting that changes things. I can expand on that if you wish.
rnbra-shooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Brunswick
This is really, really strange. Is it mounted on an ordinary rifle (i.e. is the centreline of the scope 1.5" or 2" above the rifle's boreline)? Or is it mounted very high above the boreline (for example a scope mounted on top of an AR-15 carrying handle)?
It is normal and expected for a rifle to hit point of aim at 25 yards and 100 yards.
And if your point of impact is your point of aim when shooting at 100 yards, then at 200 yards for nearly every centrefire rifle cartridge you will be about two minutes (or roughly four inches or so) low, more or less.
I can't think of any reasonable expectation to explain you being sighted in at 100 yards, but to be hitting extremely high at 200 yards.
A brief google search suggests to me that this is a hunting scope, so I would expect you the sort of adjustment dials that have a slot that you can turn with a coin, and it would also have hashmarks but not numbers printed on your dials? (versus a target scope, which would have numbers printed on the the knob and you are able to use your fingers to turn the knobs)
If you are hearing clicks, you are moving your scope's adjustments. You do not want to be doing this when you are trying to make your knobs read "zero" after you've sighted in your rifle.
Another thing you can do instead of attempting to move the knobs, is to put a small dab of liquid paper on your elevation and windage dial, to indicate to you where you line them up to return to your 100 yard zero.
Also, by far the most common scope adjustment click size is "quarter minute clicks", which means that one click will move the bullet point of impact by 1/4" at 100 yards (or 2/4" which is 1/2" at 200 yards, 3/4" at 300 yards, 6/4" or 1.5" at 600 yards, etc)
