234 Wildcat Family....ONE YEAR ANNIVERSARY

I'd sure like to see a shooting comparison to the
.23-08 verses the .23x55.
Chrony and all.
And bullet drop at say 400 yards.

Douglas...........I hear ya cuss'in.............
Just trying to entertain ya laddie.

What are you going to do for barrels?
 
kamlooky said:
I'd sure like to see a shooting comparison to the
.23-08 verses the .23x55.
Chrony and all.
And bullet drop at say 400 yards.

Douglas...........I hear ya cuss'in.............
Just trying to entertain ya laddie.

What are you going to do for barrels?
Click to expand...


Looky, you're not paying attention.............."I", ME, YOURS TRULY, will be making the barrels, and yes I know how!! I purchased all that tooling as well and it is in hand. I will be going to my mentors/buddies place to make some barrels shortly here. This button, by the way, is old PO Ackley's original design for the 234, my barrel making buddy has all of POs drawings including this original 234 cal button........it's a right hand 5 groove set up. He learned barrel making from PO himself as well as many other gunsmithing procedures which he has been trying to pass on to me, over the years.
 
kamlooky said:
I have been paying attention.
Then if you can be making the barrels, then some
adaptation of pre existing barrels could be done?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you are aiming at a rebore... which would be the cheapest way to go... especially in one of the cases that currently have a sub-.234" bore... (.22/250...) ;)
 
Can't button rifle precontoured barrels Looky, the resistance must be uniform to the button for the bore to be formed equally, if the barrel were pretapered the bore would be a reflection of this as the thinner portion would expand more as the button passed through and then contract under memory causing the bore to start off large in the shank area and taper down to the muzzle as the steel deflected and shrank back more.
Precontoured barrels must be cut rifled.
 
c-fbmi said:
. . . if the barrel were pretapered the bore would be a reflection of this as the thinner portion would expand more as the button passed through and then contract under memory causing the bore to start off large in the shank area and taper down to the muzzle as the steel deflected and shrank back more. . . .
Click to expand...

Well the old time gun writers did forward the idea that some "choke" in a rifle bore was desirable for accuracy; might be interesting to try one just to see what happens, specially if Looky donates the barrel.
 
Ackley rebored a number of contoured barrels, and told me that they generally got higher velocity because of the tapering of the groove diameter. He said the biggest problem was that the barrels would sometimes split in the thinner area.

Ted
 
I'm going to be trying it, guys, don't you worry, but not with any featherweight contours. Barrel metallurgy has come a long ways from the 50s or 60s so I doubt splitting will be an issue any more. It is something I have already pondered at length and can see no real downside to having a slightly tapered bore.............
 
c-fbmi said:
I'm going to be trying it, guys, don't you worry, but not with any featherweight contours. Barrel metallurgy has come a long ways from the 50s or 60s so I doubt splitting will be an issue any more. It is something I have already pondered at length and can see no real downside to having a slightly tapered bore.............
Click to expand...

Doug, I have a heavy 24" H&R .22/250 that I would donate for the rebore attempt to .234 Lynx... if it works, I pay you... if it doesn't, we'll chalk it up to a "learning experience."
 
marshman said:
I'm kinda thinking the choke will be on the wrong end?
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I don't think so... the barrel will rebound the most where the wall is the thinnest, which will be at the muzzle (assuming that there is any rebound at all)... this particular barrel has a pretty straight taper and is still thick at the muzzle... I personally doubt that there will be much choke evident after the button is run through... I would love to set-up a Handi with this neat little round.
 
marshman said:
I'm kinda thinking the choke will be on the wrong end?
Click to expand...

Yep Marshal, Hoyts got the right concept according to what I've been taught. The thinner section expands over the button while the shank area displaces metal more due to the thicker wall resisting expansion more. How much is anybody's guess and will depend on muzzle dia and barrel material.
 
hoytcanon said:
Doug, I have a heavy 24" H&R .22/250 that I would donate for the rebore attempt to .234 Lynx... if it works, I pay you... if it doesn't, we'll chalk it up to a "learning experience."
Click to expand...

Can the barrel be removed from the action Hoyt? I'd be happy to give it a go if the barrel can be removed, if the barrel is heavy enough I don't think there would be a discernible difference. It should work just fine, just not too sure how a tapered bore and thinning rifling may affect accuracy..........

But hey, let's get the basics up and running before we start all the cool experiments and tangential possibilities......
 
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