R8's Rock!

I had both the GP100 and the S&W R8, I found that once I installed a $10 Wolff spring kit in my GP100 the R8 no longer had any advantage in performance except for holding 8 rounds (and of course price).

I sold the R8 and kept the GP100.

That's interesting. I've been debating on what sort of .357 to get and my comfort zone on price pretty much maxes out in the used 586/686 range. I wonder if I might be as well or better served with the Ruger GP100 new, and avoid the potential pitfalls of a used DA revolver that may or may not have been owned by a cowboy at one point. There are the 'Proj guns as well, but those are still too new to our market.
 
I have two GP100's one with wolf springs. Love them to death and will never sell. Neither of them compare to the smith trigger and hammer lock time.

The wolf spring lightens the trigger pull, but also slows the hammer fall. This is what I like about the smith and wessons. Great trigger and excellent lock time (read time from hammer release to "click")

Between my wolf equipped and stock GP100's the stock gets more use. Think about it, when trying to master trigger control before during and after the trigger pull, the longer the lock time, the more time your revolver's position may change while waiting for the hammer to finish falling. Wolf spring solve one thing while worsening another.

If you own both, you know what I'm talking about. If you don't, go to a store and dryfire both. It was immediately apparent to me.
 
If you run a Revo with a red dot, you are in Open. Placement of moonclips or speed loaders can be anywhere on the belt. Maximum allowed is 6 shots, you can run an 8 shot but cannot shoot more than 6 (see below)
Otherwise:

REVOLVER DIVISION

1 Minimum power factor for Major : 170
2 Minimum power factor for Minor : 125
3 Minimum bullet weight : No
4 Minimum bullet caliber / cartridge case length : 9mm (0.354") / 19mm (0.748")
5 Minimum caliber for Major : No
6 Minimum trigger pull (see Appendix F2) : No
7 Maximum handgun size: No
8 Maximum magazine length: Not applicable
9 Maximum ammunition capacity: No, see below
10 Max. distance of handgun and allied equipment from torso: 50mm
11 Rule 5.2.10 / Appendix E2 applies : No
12 Optical/electronic sights: No
13 Compensators, ports, sound and/or flash suppressors: No

- No limit on cylinder capacity. A maximum of 6 rounds to be fired before reloading. Violations will incur one procedural penalty for each shot in excess of 6 rounds actually fired before reloading.
- Any complete revolver (or a revolver assembled from components), produced by an OFM and available to the general public (except prototypes) is permitted.
- Modifications such as weights or other devices to control and/or to reduce recoil are prohibited.

Modifications which are permitted are limited to:

- Replacement of, or modification to, sights, hammers and cylinder releases;
- Replacement barrels, provided the barrel length, weight and profile are the same as the OFM standard;
- Cosmetic enhancements (e.g. plating, checkering of frames, custom grips);
- Chamfering and/or modifications to the cylinder to accept "Moon Clips";
- Replacement springs, and modifications to enhance the operation of the trigger.
- "Self-loading" revolvers with retractable slides are prohibited in this Division.

Great info! Thanks! Question: Does the 8 round rule even apply in open? I heard they were looking into that at the club rep meeting a little while ago...
 
USPSA recently changed their Revolver Division rules: Max 6 for Major PF and Max 8 for Minor PF. Wish IPSC made the same changes.....
 
Great info! Thanks! Question: Does the 8 round rule even apply in open? I heard they were looking into that at the club rep meeting a little while ago...

Don't see why it would.
Have a 929 on order to run in Open with a red dot, just for kicks. (8 rounds Minor vs 11 rounds Major)....no threat (competent enough that I won't hold up the squad, organizers or RO's)
Ran a red dot years ago, why not combine my passions and have a little fun from time to time.

Sometimes winning is irrelevant and classifications mean d*ck, you do it to push your limits.
 
after shooting a R8 all week ive come to the conclusion that im retarded when it comes to using speed loaders.
i swear you could go make a sandwich and come back in the time it takes me to dump and drop in.
 
after shooting a R8 all week ive come to the conclusion that im retarded when it comes to using speed loaders.
i swear you could go make a sandwich and come back in the time it takes me to dump and drop in.

Why don't you use moon clips?
My speed loaders has become paper weight since I switch to moon clips.
 
well......

i have to say, after shooting the GP100 and the R8 side by side im not sold.
in fact im rather happy it wasnt me that spent $1500 on the R8!

if i where using this gun as a life or death gun for work ok, but for plinking there was no difference in shooting the guns.
in fact i found the extra weight of the ruger to be a benefit when shooting the .357 mag.
when shooting the 38 both guns felt and shot the same.

I had both, Bartons took my R8 on a trade, the GP100 is half the price nd shoots nice
 

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Those look like nice guns, save for that lock they put in it. I'm a little confused, though; why would a SWAT team want a revolver?

Imagine you're the first guy through the door with no room for the second man to follow immediately. You see the bad guy on the other side of the room grab his 12 gauge so you pull the trigger on your handgun. The gun goes <click> ......
 
Imagine you're the first guy through the door with no room for the second man to follow immediately. You see the bad guy on the other side of the room grab his 12 gauge so you pull the trigger on your handgun. The gun goes <click> ......

Imagine you're the first through the door with your wheel gun, you see a threat and press the trigger. One round goes off and the primer blows out of the case, locking the cylinder in place. Imagine you're the first through the door and your wheel gun goes "click" due to hard primers, a weak main spring or both. The potential for mechanical failure is present in all firearms. A revolver with upwards of 80+ parts is no exception.

TDC
 
that said ive never had a failure on a wheel gun..... ever.
but then ive only been shooting for 40 years so thats not a big sample time.
but my semi autos seem to fail pretty much every time out to the range for one reason or another.

im a empirical type of person.
i go with what ive seen with my own eyes and if i had to choose id go with wheel gun.
but then at my age i dont think i have to fear getting tapped on the shoulder to be the shield man for any ERT team anytime soon.

but it is a interesting topic to discuss.

on a related note doesnt BC CFO only let you carry a wheel gun if you get a carry permit for working in the forestry for that exact reason?
reason being reliability.
 
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type 1 2 and 3 failures are 2 hand manipulations with an automatic.

With a revolver, you simply press the trigger again.

Reliability failures on a well kept revolver are fractions of the amount of type 1,2 or 3 failures on a semi, and like said, are fixable by simply pressing the trigger again. Shield man cannot do 2 handed manipulations.
 
type 1 2 and 3 failures are 2 hand manipulations with an automatic.

With a revolver, you simply press the trigger again.

Reliability failures on a well kept revolver are fractions of the amount of type 1,2 or 3 failures on a semi, and like said, are fixable by simply pressing the trigger again. Shield man cannot do 2 handed manipulations.

exactly, and .357 mag is a prety good start
 
but it is an interesting topic to discuss.

It is.

Have 2 625-3's, one for dry fire practice/general range duty and one for competition.

Range/dry fire gun:
Skipping cylinders on rapid DA fire. Cylinder notches peened over, needed to be rolled back.
Cylinder stop & spring worn, required replacing and hand fitting....twice as of now.
Rear portion of Hammer Nose broke, hammer nose spring mashed in process. New hammer nose & spring required.

With excessive use, they will break and wear, just like any other firearm.
Precisely why you have a dry fire/practice gun and a comp gun + being able to work on your own equipment + plenty of spares.

My G34 has a heavy round count and has gone through springs, extractors, mags, blah blah....... If used enough, they will all fail.
 
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that said ive never had a failure on a wheel gun..... ever.
but then ive only been shooting for 40 years so thats not a big sample time.
but my semi autos seem to fail pretty much every time out to the range for one reason or another.

im a empirical type of person.
i go with what ive seen with my own eyes and if i had to choose id go with wheel gun.
but then at my age i dont think i have to fear getting tapped on the shoulder to be the shield man for any ERT team anytime soon.

but it is a interesting topic to discuss.

on a related note doesnt BC CFO only let you carry a wheel gun if you get a carry permit for working in the forestry for that exact reason?
reason being reliability.

40 years of casual plinking isn't empirical of anything. Try running more than one cylinder rapidly and attempt a "rapid" reload, they don't happen. If hot casings or a dirty chamber don't get you, the dexterity required to align six small rounds with six holes will. And don't offer up Jerry Miculek, he shoots for a living and spends many many hours practicing his movements. Your autos failing is likely due to the quality of said firearm and the ammunition. I suspect you're running reloads and using dated pistols like oh, a 1911?

I've seen several revolvers fail, its usually stuck cases in a hot or dirty cylinder after less than a box of ammo. I've seen a handful of revolvers fail catastrophically to the point they required tools and disassembly to rectify. The negatives of a wheel gun far far outweigh any potential benefit. The BC CFO and their decision to only allow revolvers has absolutely zero to do with reliability and your safety.

type 1 2 and 3 failures are 2 hand manipulations with an automatic.

With a revolver, you simply press the trigger again.

Reliability failures on a well kept revolver are fractions of the amount of type 1,2 or 3 failures on a semi, and like said, are fixable by simply pressing the trigger again. Shield man cannot do 2 handed manipulations.

Try taking an advanced course and get back to me on the requirement for both hands with a type 1 or 2 failure. Even a type 3 can be done with one hand, albeit slow and far from easy but it can be done. Type 1 and 2 stoppages are hardly a major issue for one hand work. Nevertheless, the shield guy doesn't go in alone, and if you run a quality gun, the stoppage rate isn't worth discussing as it doesn't happen.

You failed to address the potential stoppages I posted above. A weak main spring or a blown primer are bad for business. Tell me how you reload a revolver one handed or operate the mounted light properly without gas cutting your digits?

TDC
 
Jams are common on semi-auto handguns. Yes COMMON. Meaning that I see semi-autos jam every single time I attend the range. And yes that certainly includes Glocks.

Revolver jams are almost unheard of. I've never actually witnessed one. Have you?

.357-Magnum is far more powerful than anything available in a semi-auto pistol, unless you want to include the Desert Eagle.

But the Desert Eagle jams so often it might as well be classed as a single-shot pistol.
 
Jams are common on semi-auto handguns. Yes COMMON. Meaning that I see semi-autos jam every single time I attend the range. And yes that certainly includes Glocks.

Revolver jams are almost unheard of. I've never actually witnessed one. Have you?

.357-Magnum is far more powerful than anything available in a semi-auto pistol, unless you want to include the Desert Eagle.

But the Desert Eagle jams so often it might as well be classed as a single-shot pistol.

Maybe your range is really dusty - I very rarely see jams at my range. I have never had a jam or ftf on any of my glocks - ever. only jams I get in any semi's is in the 1911 but that is 100 year old technology. And yes I have had jams on revolvers - mostly empty brass sticking in the cylinder, but also having the cylinder stick and not advance.

also just google s&w and their retarded built-in locking key mechanism that tends to lock the pistol on its own while you are using it. hardly a bastion of reliability in a life-or-death gun.

Also check your ballistics tables - the 10mm is equal to and in some loadings more powerful than the .357 in terms of energy.
 
Also check your ballistics tables - the 10mm is equal to and in some loadings more powerful than the .357 in terms of energy.

Currently available .357-Magnum loads are rivalling 30/30 ballistics.
 
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