Corrosive ammo cleaning

Windex has a theoretical advantage over water: surfactants that expedite evaporation and decrease the potential for oxidation of the surfaces it was applied to.

Correct. Water plus surfactants makes for a better cleaner than just water.

Windex is a reasonable choice for cleanup of corrosive ammo residue, but not for the reason usually given by its advocates.
 
Windex has a theoretical advantage over water: surfactants that expedite evaporation and decrease the potential for oxidation of the surfaces it was applied to.

If you use boiling hot water, the parts are dry almost before you set them down on the table...
 
You can do whatever you want to "clean" the rifle, the point is that the boiling water takes care of salts. After the hot water, you continue cleaning and maintaining like any other firearm. No windex or magic potions required. Windex isn't cleaning anything.
 
Hoppes #9 and a good gun oil. Pull through the barrel, gas tube, bolt, piston everything gets wiped down with the Hoppes #9. Wipe and brush the #9 around, dry it off then lightly oil.
Is that simple enough? Don't forget to wipe some through the gas port and to disassemble and clean your bolt.
 
Correct. Water plus surfactants makes for a better cleaner than just water.

Windex is a reasonable choice for cleanup of corrosive ammo residue, but not for the reason usually given by its advocates.
True. I've always used windex. Naysayers automatically assume we think the ammonia is important. Wrong.
Its mostly water, and is a light cleaning agent as well.
After the rifles last round I give bore a windex bath which sizzles dry after being applied. Then I loosely spray down the bore and action with a CLP or even WD40. This is a sloppy initial protecting job only performed at the range.
Once home, the rifle is cleaned with hoppes solvent of all fouling, carbon and the above mentioned preventative measures. Reoiled and good as new, ready for the next outing.
 
You can do whatever you want to "clean" the rifle, the point is that the boiling water takes care of salts. After the hot water, you continue cleaning and maintaining like any other firearm. No windex or magic potions required. Windex isn't cleaning anything.

A water-based cleaner can remove fouling simultaneously with dissolving corrosive salts more efficiently than just water. It doesn't have to be Windex; Simple Green, dish soap, TSP, etc. will all do the job.

Hoppes #9 and a good gun oil. Pull through the barrel, gas tube, bolt, piston everything gets wiped down with the Hoppes #9. Wipe and brush the #9 around, dry it off then lightly oil.
Is that simple enough? Don't forget to wipe some through the gas port and to disassemble and clean your bolt.

Petroleum-based solvents like Hoppe's are non-polar and will not dissolve the salt.
 
I have wondered about keeping a (designated for this purpose) boresnake right in a small container of windex, water, or similar, and then using it at the range. The bristley bit would be an advantage I think. It would get rid of the salts, and maybe remove a bot of the fouling as well. I have also thought of what I could use as a similar pull-through for the gas tube. Maybe a .22 boresnake would work.
 
Boil 1.5 litres of water dismental bolt gas system etc I use a metal funnel for the barrel. I go in the garage sink put the parts in the bottom then put the funnel in the canon pointing it to the bottom of the sink pour the boil in, remove funnel pour on chamber and gas system. Watch out the canon will be very hot set aside. Rinse bottom of sink with tap water. Put parts in bottom of sink pour rest of water on it careful parts will be burning to touch use leather gloves. After i just run a bore snake then a patch of solvent then oil it up.

Some friend told me I could just shoot a couple non corrosive bullets and it would clean it. I dont really believe it.
 
I boil the kettle ,dissamble and hold it by the rear sight and pour down the barrel and thru the tube under the rear sight. Then the gas tube,then over the piston and bolt/carrier. By the time I go to refill the kettle and turn it on for a cup of coffee most of it's dry. Then I clean it with WWII GI bore cleaner.
 
Last edited:
^this, the boiling water heats up the metal opening up the pours and getting out any salt residue there may be. The biggest plus, which has been said numerous times already is that the heated metal evaporates the water residue, you don't need wd40 or windex, USE WATER people! It's practically free. Get a cheap ass kettle, done,easy, there is no substitute. If your afraid of the wife raining down holy hell on you for spilling nasty gun water all over the floor just get a cheap walmart plastic rubber made tote container and pour over it, then dump out all the crud water outside when your done.
 
Fluid Film. Available at farm supply stores, Canadian Tire, etc. I've been using it for 20 years, not had a corrosion problem since I started using it.
 
For those of you that have not tried the hoppes bore snake in 30 caliber. It works like nothing else. way better than patches with way less effort
 
For those of you that have not tried the hoppes bore snake in 30 caliber. It works like nothing else. way better than patches with way less effort
Yes I just got one for cheap ($14) but haven't used it yet. I've seen the results on milsurps. Outstanding.
I'm so sick of rods and patches.
 
I use the Windex only at the range if I am going to be there several hours with mix of firearms or a match.
If I am not staying there too long after I shoot the SKS
I wait till I get back home, then strip rifle , dismantle bolt and pour boiling water on pretty much all metal parts let dry then re-oil and reassemble.
 
Fluid Film. Available at farm supply stores, Canadian Tire, etc. I've been using it for 20 years, not had a corrosion problem since I started using it.

Please elaborate on how you use Fluid Film. Do you buy a can, a spray on bottle or aerosol? Thank you, sir.
 
The plain hot water, no Windex or WD is required, doesn't have to be boiling hot. Go to Princess Auto and buy yourself a goose necked funnel. You don't have to panic about flushing out the salts either. Your rifles isn't going to dissolve on the way home.
 
all ive ever used is Nitro Solvent on a brass bore brush, then a path, then a cotton bore brush with oil. my SKS has aproximently 3000 rounds through her and still in exelent condition, no sign of any pitting or rust so it works fine for me.
 
I use a hand held steamer used for car detailing. The steam heats to metal parts so they dry quickly and blows away crud. Just lube rifle well after steaming.
 
Back
Top Bottom