Corrosive ammo cleaning

I take the gun apart, pour boiling water down the barrel and over the metal parts, then clean as normal and use Fluid Film on the metal. I use the spray and also soak a patch with it and push it through the barrel. It still looks like new.
 
on the SKS, bayonet out, striped down to just receiver & barrel. stab bayonet in the ground to hold it up. hot boiling water, in receiver, down barrel, and gas port. let dry while you clean everything else. oil reassemble, but i like cleaning guns, especially mine.

don`t forget to clean the bayonet mech inside, seems to collect the dissolved salts and gets rusty.
 
Please elaborate on how you use Fluid Film. Do you buy a can, a spray on bottle or aerosol? Thank you, sir.

Simple. Shake the can well, before using. Spray some on a patch, run through the bore. Often, I will clean the bore with FF, then run a loose-fitting patch through that has been sprayed, so as to leave a good film. I hang a tag on the rifle "Clean bore before firing". I have never had a bore rust up since I've been using it. A can will last for a lonnnngggg time. It is also available in non-pressurized form in a big-a$$ed can.
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Patch with hot soapy water, then boiling hot water to flush. As others said, the metal is hot enough to evaporate most of the water. Couple dry patches to get any remaining water, then light oil. No issues in 25 years of SKS shooting...
 
Did the Russians do all of these things to their rifles? I could see them pouring water down the barrel and maybe washing parts in soapy water but this other stuff. Windex and these chemicals were not available. Anybody have a cleaning manual translated into English? Just wondering what the average soldier did to his rifle?
 
Did the Russians do all of these things to their rifles? I could see them pouring water down the barrel and maybe washing parts in soapy water but this other stuff. Windex and these chemicals were not available. Anybody have a cleaning manual translated into English? Just wondering what the average soldier did to his rifle?

The Soviets did indeed use a water-based bore cleaner containing ammonium carbonate and potassium dichromate.

As for Fluid Film, it would be an excellent corrosion inhibitor to apply after cleaning, but does not contain any water to dissolve the corrosive residue.
 
So if I've never used hot water, and have the same satisfactory cleaning results as someone who does, then what does that mean?
I guess I have to assume I'm either really good at cleaning corrosive, hot water is not superior, or the other owners are bad at cleaning corrosive without the use of hot water...
 
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So if I've never used hot water, and have the same satisfactory cleaning results as someone who does, then what does that mean?
I guess I have to assume I'm either really good at cleaning corrosive, hot water is not superior, or the other owners are bad at cleaning corrosive without the use of hot water...

Hot water is nice due to the hot metal drying itself, I'm sure any liquid with water in it would suffice. Cold water or windex would rinse the salts out just as well. You'll just have to make sure everything is nice and dry after the flush.
 
So if I've never used hot water, and have the same satisfactory cleaning results as someone who does, then what does that mean?
I guess I have to assume I'm either really good at cleaning corrosive, hot water is not superior, or the other owners are bad at cleaning corrosive without the use of hot water...

Or you've been lucky so far.
 
disassemble ...4" of boiling water in small sink ...use a cotton patch from the breech ...swab barrel up and down, drawing boiling water in and out (must use gloves) ...repeat with gas tube ...scrub all using nylon brush ...rinse with boiling water ...let dry ...clean with ed's red (clean sink before wife gets home)
 
For those of you that have not tried the hoppes bore snake in 30 caliber. It works like nothing else. way better than patches with way less effort

I do something similar: Use a .30 cal bore snake soaked in soapy water. I use "Dawn" dish washing detergent as my soap.

When using corrosive ammo, most people are concerned about the barrel and chamber. I think it is important to not forget about the gas system. I throw the piston and parts into soapy water and pour soapy water down the gas tube.
 
disassemble ...4" of boiling water in small sink ...use a cotton patch from the breech ...swab barrel up and down, drawing boiling water in and out (must use gloves) ...repeat with gas tube ...scrub all using nylon brush ...rinse with boiling water ...let dry ...clean with ed's red (clean sink before wife gets home)

I kind of do it your way although I scrub the barrel with a nylon barrel brush and flush with boiling hot water until there is no more dirt that can be flushed out. Once I'm done, I let it dry, hose the barrel out with Ballistol or G69, let it soak for 15 minutes, and then use a Ballistol soaked patch and then a dry one right after. Done. Never had rust, uses only 1 or 2 patches, and a lot less Ballistol.
 
When is someone going to put up a locked Sticky that states: "Clean parts in contact with powder in hot water, dry, then clean as per your personal preferences"?
 
For me, the area's to be cleaned is any and all surface's that have been touched with the powder. Piston and extension are biggie's as well as the chamber face and internal receiver area.
If the gas's touched it then there's salt to be removed.
 
I use a hand held steamer for the barrel. Works great, not as messy as hot water. After I clean with Hoppe's #9 bore cleaner.
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