Smith and Wesson Model 10 help!!!

HK45auto

HK45auto

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Hey guys,

I was wondering if the "issue" I am having has a fix/solution.

I have a recently gotten a very nice Smith and Wesson Model 10-5 off our EE here. It is extremely lighted used (almost no drag mark at all) and in great looking condition. It dates from the 1960s.

Now since I have gotten it, I have been practicing loading and dry fire with it (with a set of snap caps) and I have been noticing the odd time the hammer would "lock up" on me when cocking it to shoot it in S/A and some times (a lot less often) the trigger would also do so when I go to shoot it in D/A, again "locking" when I start to pull it. By "lock up" I mean I would start to pull the hammer or trigger back and within a few cm's it would stop, if this happened I could let the hammer (or trigger down) and pull it again no problem and it would be good for another few rounds of loading and dry firing.

Now it is happening A LOT more often. Is there something I can check to see if it is out of place or spec? Know if a part might be broken/what that part is? Is something possibly old and worn, like a spring due to age?

I really want to use this revolver and get the most out of it so I want it running 100%!!! I know S&W guns, especially their older wheel guns are quite good and reliable so I am a little flustered/upset at this.

Any insight or advice would be great!!!

PS. I have tried to Google this but pretty much everything that comes up has to do with the internal locks Smith puts in many of their revolvers now.

Thanks,

- HK
 
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Without your snap caps in, pull the hammer back just enough to release the cylinder lock, see if you can spin the cylinder freely, next put the caps in and try it again. The caps might be hanging up the cylinder and causing your problem.

Scott
 
The same issues happen with and without the snap caps.

The revolver now is locking up 80% of the time when the hammer or trigger is pulled, I can "fix" it by opening the cylinder only and trying again, which usually just locks up once more. UGH!!!
 
You could try spraying penetrating oil inside, letting it sit for awhile, could be dried oil gumming things up. Can't hurt. If that isn't it, I would suggest calling Murray Charlton enterprises.
 
If it's as lightly used as you say and that old it likely sat for a long time without any internal cleaning and maintenance. The oil inside over many years like this can turn to a hard varnish like sludge in some cases. It may simply need a really good cleaning.

This MAY require it to be detail stripped. But before you go that far I'd suggest removing the grip panels and flush the insides through the mainspring opening, hammer opening and even through the hand opening with some Ed's Red mixture. You can find the formula to mix up this great performing general purpose solvent based gun cleaner quickly on the 'net. Or if you want to try my own version I use equal parts of ATF, low odor oil paint thinner and lacquer thinner. Flood the insides and allow to soak in for about 20 minutes for 3 or 4 repititions. After the second time include cycling the action with double action trigger pulls as well as single action cocking to check operation in with the soaking in periods.

Because of the solvents the Ed's Red is smelly, hard on our skin and flammable. So use it outside or in the garage and buy some nitrile gloves to wear. The gloves are a good idea anyway for any gun cleaning that involves any sort of solvent. So a supply of nitrile gloves is a wise expense anyway.

Stick with it. The 10 is one amazing gun to own and shoot. You're in for a really good experience once you clear up this bit of an issue.

If it is still acting up after the flushes then it's time for a tune up visit to a smith that knows revolvers. Or a well known local revolver guy that knows the insides of them.

If you're tool handy and can put things back together that you take apart then look on You Tube for the various videos of Smith & Wesson tear downs. There's lots of them. If you don't see anything to scare you then have a go at a strip down and detail cleaning yourself. Just watch the spring inside the rebound block and be sure to block it from leaping for freedom as you tilt the block up off the rear pin.

These guns also respond in the most wonderful way to a Wolff spring kit and the 11 lb rebound spring that comes in the kit.
 
HK45auto said:
How much of a pain is it to get a gun "smithed" in Canada...having to transfer it over? and the ATTs and so on?
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Nothing to it, it can all be done with a phone call to the CFO. They give you a number, and then off to the post office you go.
 
I had a similar issue with a smith. I found the cylinder release latch was loose, and not going all the way back to the closed position upon release. If the latch doesn't move all the way back, it will block the hammer from going back far enough to fire or engage in the single action notch. If there is sticky oil build up as suggested above, this could cause it.

Please tell me you where not flicking the cylinder open and closed like on TV....(I'm sure you where not, but it will bend the crane, and could also cause this to happen due to miss alignment)
 
The latch has a plunger and spring in it and if it is seized then latch may stay in the middle , preventing hammer cocking. Take side plate off and unscrew the latch knob, then remove the latch plunger. You may have to remove other parts to get to it, but if its spring is stuck you have to pull it out oil it and reassemble. If you uncomfortable on how to do it then take it to gunsmith.
 
gewehr76 said:
The latch has a plunger and spring in it and if it is seized then latch may stay in the middle , preventing hammer cocking. Take side plate off and unscrew the latch knob, then remove the latch plunger. You may have to remove other parts to get to it, but if its spring is stuck you have to pull it out oil it and reassemble. If you uncomfortable on how to do it then take it to gunsmith.
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That's a better description of what i was trying to describe! Thanks Gewehr!! This is probably it, easy fix! Be careful with the screws, get proper gun screwdrivers so you don't bugger em, and DON'T try to pry out the side plate. There's a couple really good Youtube vids for pulling the side plate without damage if your not sure or haven't done it before.
 
Yes sir just trying to help with tripple heart bypass here.
Cocked&Locked said:
That's a better description of what i was trying to describe! Thanks Gewehr!! This is probably it, easy fix! Be careful with the screws, get proper gun screwdrivers so you don't bugger em, and DON'T try to pry out the side plate. There's a couple really good Youtube vids for pulling the side plate without damage if your not sure or haven't done it before.
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gewehr76 said:
The latch has a plunger and spring in it and if it is seized then latch may stay in the middle , preventing hammer cocking. Take side plate off and unscrew the latch knob, then remove the latch plunger. You may have to remove other parts to get to it, but if its spring is stuck you have to pull it out oil it and reassemble. If you uncomfortable on how to do it then take it to gunsmith.
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If you do try this, don't pry the sideplate off--it's easy to accidentally bend it so it won't fit flush when it's reinstalled.

Have you checked under the extractor star to ensure it's absolutely clean? The times I've had a revolver lock up it took a just a few flakes of unburnt powder stuck in the lubricant under the extractor that caused it.
 
Thanks for all the advice!!!

I took it apart safely are properly, not 100% but the hammer and a few other parts...cleaned it and oiled it. It is working better but still not 100% sadly.

If I sent it to a smith for work, what should I expect it to cost? Have anyone who you'd recommend who has a fast a turn around?

Thanks
 
BCRider said:
Depends on the province and the conditions on your long term ATT. Here in BC the long term covers trips to and from a gunsmith.
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Well, they used to. At least mine used to, but when I had to renew last summer the "gunsmith" clause had been rescinded on the new one. There was a thread on this on CGN at the time. If yours still includes the gunsmith trip, you're lucky. Mind you, Peter Riedel is only 2 blocks. off "the most direct route to the range" for me so I could probably get away with dropping one gun off there whilst en route to the Mission range.
 
alright, some more playing with it...it seems to be mostly an issue when I try to shoot it in single action...and the it locks up almost totally again
 
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Other than the powder under the star thing, which seems less likely if only dry firing, the ejector rod is often the case.
In this case, tightening will be reverse due to left hand threads.
R
flange said:
Loose ejector rod binding the cylinder ? Somewhat common.
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