Robarms XCR FAQ post

RA, the manufacturer, says 200 in-lbf.
Wolverine, the distributor, calls for 250.

250 in-lbf is crazy high for a 5/16 (any pitch) bolt. Every time you torque to 250, you're stretching the bolt. You might get away with it if you're using a new bolt every time, otherwise you're on borrowed time.

Side note, there's no place for thread lock on a heli-coil.

I use 18 ft-lbf or 220 in-lbf as my own spec.

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@ skatemike, I've removed the brake off my x39 barrel with just a wrench. I was surprised how easy it came off.



Yeah I took my barrel off for the first time this weekend and when i torqued back on i used 200 inch pounds with my brand new torque wrench. anything more than that felt really unnecessary and would require mega force.
 
I don't use a gauge, I do what Alex says hand tight, and try a quarter turn, about 70% ... for XCR-L's and XCR-M and I've never had a problem. He does say 240 to 250 inch pounds.


every vid i have seen with Alex in it- he says 200 inch lbs. The manual also says 200 inch lbs so I will side with that for now lol. 250 seems like way too much given how much force I used to put it to 200. I hope it was not tightened to 250 when I bought it from wolverine.
 
every vid i have seen with Alex in it- he says 200 inch lbs. The manual also says 200 inch lbs so I will side with that for now lol. 250 seems like way too much given how much force I used to put it to 200. I hope it was not tightened to 250 when I bought it from wolverine.
It probably tightened to 250 at wolverine, as they are including a spec sheet that states 250. 250 felt fine to me, it just didn't like 260 or whatever the next click would be.Maybe give wolverine a call and ask them why 250.
 
It probably tightened to 250 at wolverine, as they are including a spec sheet that states 250. 250 felt fine to me, it just didn't like 260 or whatever the next click would be.Maybe give wolverine a call and ask them why 250.

hmm mine did not include a spec sheet. Perhaps I will give them a call.
 
Talked to a gun smith over at wolverine the other day. He contends that yes- the manual says 200 inch pounds for torquing the barrel bolt. However he said lots of people have found at 200 they barrel and gas block MAY come loose over time. So in good practice wolverine has been tightening them to 250..NO loctite.

Some people like myself feel that 250 is a bit much seeing as 200 felt MORE than snug for me - using a brand new high quality torque wrench from acklands grainger btw.


So maybe play it safe and torque to 220?
 
http://deweyrods.com/product/22-to-27-caliber-nylon-coated-pull-through-cable-30-inches

I was finding this pull thru cable really tight in my xcr-l barrel. I tried to insert it from the receiver end forward towards the end to the flash suppressor. Was not really fitting well so I stopped. You guys take the barrel off each time when you want to clean it? Feels like that would make that barrel bolt loose over time. Not sure why this pull through cord would not fit well.
 
http://deweyrods.com/product/22-to-27-caliber-nylon-coated-pull-through-cable-30-inches

I was finding this pull thru cable really tight in my xcr-l barrel. I tried to insert it from the receiver end forward towards the end to the flash suppressor. Was not really fitting well so I stopped. You guys take the barrel off each time when you want to clean it? Feels like that would make that barrel bolt loose over time. Not sure why this pull through cord would not fit well.

it more than a year that i got mine and probably shot around 1500 round of corrosive in total in it , i clean after every shooting session but never needed to remove the barrel , so i would say unless you want to swap the barrel i wouldn't even think about that
 
I remove the barrel every 2,000 rounds or so, only for a major scrub down, I don't remove for maintenance cleaning.
Maintenance is done with a cleaning rod, patches, etc.
The only place for a pull through is in those little holes in your shoes. Gotz no business being around a gun ;).
 
Talked to a gun smith over at wolverine the other day. He contends that yes- the manual says 200 inch pounds for torquing the barrel bolt. However he said lots of people have found at 200 they barrel and gas block MAY come loose over time. So in good practice wolverine has been tightening them to 250..NO loctite.

Some people like myself feel that 250 is a bit much seeing as 200 felt MORE than snug for me - using a brand new high quality torque wrench from acklands grainger btw.


So maybe play it safe and torque to 220?

I torque a little more each time on a barrel swap then will order a new barrel bolt once I need more than about 250 in-lbs.

I never let a pull thru/bore snake or any other dirty string near my guns. Rod and patches, Hoppe's, copper brush and a set regimen for all my barrels.
 
hmm even with my cleaning rod from hoppes it felt way too tight. perhaps its the patch size? or the little plastic nipple that holds the patch in place?
 
XCR M in .308 here. I placed my scope with low rings on it so I can get a proper cheek weld to shoot. The problem I am finding is every round I fire the recoil punches me in the face, hard. The weird part is the recoil in the shoulder is not heavy at all. I'm not understanding what I am doing wrong here, or if maybe I just need higher rings so my cheek bone isnt rested on the FAST Stock. Any advice?
 
XCR M in .308 here. I placed my scope with low rings on it so I can get a proper cheek weld to shoot. The problem I am finding is every round I fire the recoil punches me in the face, hard. The weird part is the recoil in the shoulder is not heavy at all. I'm not understanding what I am doing wrong here, or if maybe I just need higher rings so my cheek bone isnt rested on the FAST Stock. Any advice?

Are you saying you are getting sprayed with gas everytime you shoot? Maybe you should check out a muzzle device that mitigates that recoil.
 
XCR M in .308 here. I placed my scope with low rings on it so I can get a proper cheek weld to shoot. The problem I am finding is every round I fire the recoil punches me in the face, hard. The weird part is the recoil in the shoulder is not heavy at all. I'm not understanding what I am doing wrong here, or if maybe I just need higher rings so my cheek bone isnt rested on the FAST Stock. Any advice?

Have you got the rifle pulled in hard, and are you controlling it.
Have you adjusted the stock to fit pull and weld? The whole stock can be raised or lowered, as well the cheek pad.
How old is the rifle and what's the gas setting?
If the gas is too high, the rifle is going to bounce around and could be adding to the recoil "punch".

I don't have much else other than to say I'd like to watch you shoot. I think it could be amusing. ;)
 
Hahahaha thanks for the vote of confidence...
Gas is at a 3 setting. Rifle is older, but as i mentioned when I'm not resting my face on it its really light recoil for a .308. And yes I do have a good firing position. I'll have to lower the FAST stock and figure something out. I'm thinking its because I literally have my cheek bone resting on the stock.
 
I would try the rifle on gas setting 1.
You're not testing for usual function, just to see if that's the issue.

Aside, if the rifle has seen more than 100 rounds, I'm betting 3 is too high.
 
Ive tried it on all settings, If I put it any lower than 3 the rounds won't eject. The firearm is extremely accurate (sub moa with 168gr BTHP), and there is no mechanical issues with it that are readily apparent, so I'm gonna assume there is not a technical issue. I think I will just get higher rings and get some sort of pad for the stock, that should fix it.
 
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