Long term metal protection experiment follow up

Hey man we ran into each other at the storefront last Saturday, and the product I was thinking of was Fluid Film. It's available in the automotive section of CanTire, and a lot of members here recommended it to me when I was trying to figure out how I was going to store my guns last winter. Could be neat to examine.
 
p.Rundle said:
Hey man we ran into each other at the storefront last Saturday, and the product I was thinking of was Fluid Film. It's available in the automotive section of CanTire, and a lot of members here recommended it to me when I was trying to figure out how I was going to store my guns last winter. Could be neat to examine.
Click to expand...

Hi again, Fluid Film has been suggested already and I want to try it but I don't have any. So either I find some or somebody needs to drop some off so I can spray 1 piece. (not a very subtle hint)
 
Last edited:
Odd Shot said:
I thought anything that would remove rust would remove parkerizing/bluing
Click to expand...

I think it will,hence my experiment on an old rusted solid SxS... the receiver and action were completely rusted, but the barrel only had a bit. Once I clean it off I will know how it affects the finish. It is an aggressive product meant for industry, it can be used to protect unfinished metal during transit and remove oxide layers from critical weld surfaces after oxygen process cutting.
 
dirtybarry said:
Is that the stuff that converts existing rust to ferric oxide? (ferrous?, I dunno but its black and hard)
Click to expand...

The 3 main forms of rust (iron oxyde) are:
-Fe2O3, aka hematite, aka ferric oxide, aka iron-3 oxide: most common for of rust, that's the red dusty crap you don't want. With water it bonds to become Fe2O3(H2O) and ruins everything. Hydrated ferric oxide (Fe2O3(H2O)) is what's usually called "rust", or atleast the majority of the "rust".
-FeO, aka hematite, aka iron-2 oxide: not often seen naturally, you can produce it industrially. It's a black powder, not hard though.
-Fe3O4, aka iron-(2,3) oxide, aka magnetite, aka magnetic oxide, aka black oxide: That's probably the "black and hard" stuff you refer to. You obtain it by adding carbon monoxyde to ferric oxide. It's black due to a residue of carbon on the top layer. You can also obtain it by completely submerging iron in water, but then it'll constantly destroy and regenerate itself, destroying your iron in the process. It's somewhat protective, but nothing compared to the blueing of a gun. Normally you'd paint the black oxide to protect it. Plus, it won't undo the damages already done by rust, just stop it.

I wouldn't use a product that would turn ferric oxyde to black oxide on my firearm, even if it protects your iron strip. Chances are that it would ruin the blueing.
 
I use G 96 for a preservative and rust preventitive on all my guns, The method I use on a new gun is to apply a min of 4-5 coatings with a wipe down between coatings. After that just a one wipe down after using. Do the same for the bore as well using a boresnake. Sometimes bore will require 2-3 passes. In my opinion G 96 is a gunmans best friend and superior to other products!
 
Geowolffe said:
I use G 96 for a preservative and rust preventitive on all my guns, The method I use on a new gun is to apply a min of 4-5 coatings with a wipe down between coatings. After that just a one wipe down after using. Do the same for the bore as well using a boresnake. Sometimes bore will require 2-3 passes. In my opinion G 96 is a gunmans best friend and superior to other products!
Click to expand...

It's what I use for cleaning my guns too, and we'll be finding out how it compares.
 
VinnyQC said:
The 3 main forms of rust (iron oxyde) are:
-Fe2O3, aka hematite, aka ferric oxide, aka iron-3 oxide: most common for of rust, that's the red dusty crap you don't want. With water it bonds to become Fe2O3(H2O) and ruins everything. Hydrated ferric oxide (Fe2O3(H2O)) is what's usually called "rust", or atleast the majority of the "rust".
-FeO, aka hematite, aka iron-2 oxide: not often seen naturally, you can produce it industrially. It's a black powder, not hard though.
-Fe3O4, aka iron-(2,3) oxide, aka magnetite, aka magnetic oxide, aka black oxide: That's probably the "black and hard" stuff you refer to. You obtain it by adding carbon monoxyde to ferric oxide. It's black due to a residue of carbon on the top layer. You can also obtain it by completely submerging iron in water, but then it'll constantly destroy and regenerate itself, destroying your iron in the process. It's somewhat protective, but nothing compared to the blueing of a gun. Normally you'd paint the black oxide to protect it. Plus, it won't undo the damages already done by rust, just stop it.

I wouldn't use a product that would turn ferric oxyde to black oxide on my firearm, even if it protects your iron strip. Chances are that it would ruin the blueing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation. I've used various rust converters on rusty vehicle bodies but would never consider using it on guns hence my question.
 
Any thoughts on atmosphere control? Instead of trying to remove all oxygen (good luck) maybe flood the bag with Nitrogen. Hard to oxydize in the abscence of oxygen.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom