I have a .22 carbon fibre Tipton cleaning rod. I've had no problems using it with CZ rifles nor should anyone else trying one. The idea that CZ bores are too tight to use a good quality .22LR cleaning rod is sometimes repeated, but that doesn't make it true.
CZ 455 Accuracy - Not what I expected
- Thread starter shellbird01
- Start date
I was wondering about that, my plastic coated Dewy .22 is snug but it has no trouble passing thru once someone in this thread told me I could remove the bolt guide.
A bore guide should be used if you have a rifle that matters to you. Use a one piece rod like a Tipton carbon fibre rod or a Pro Shot stainless steel rod. Rods that are thin will bow in the barrel and rub the inside. CZ bore guides (they should really be called rod guides) can be found by googling Yo Dave Products.
Sure matters to me and I would like to take care of it properly.
Thanks, will order the rod guide from Yo Dave and so far I found that Cabela's has the Tipton carbon fibre rod so will get it there unless find it at one of our dealers. Any specific brushes and jags? I have not used jags but rather wrapped bronze brushes and Hoppes.
What would be the recommended cleaning procedures starting with a new unfired CZ? After how many rounds and should clean after ammo manufacturer change?
I'll share my cleaning routine, good or bad. I thoroughly clean my CZs every 500 rds, using a bronze brush and Hoppes Bench Rest 9. According to the label, it removes powder fouling, lead and copper fouling, and plastic residue.
I soak a bronze brush with it, give the bore a few strokes back and forth using a Tipton CF rod and bore guide, then repeat. Once the bore has a coating, I leave it to soak overnight.
The next day, I wrap a thin patch around an old worn bronze brush, soak it with the solvent, and give the barrel half a dozen strokes, then repeat the process but only scrub the chamber/leade area this time. The worn brush will reverse without too much effort in the barrel.
After this, I use a pointed jag with a clean patch and push through the barrel from breech end. Any time the rod goes through the barrel, I use the bore guide. With the .22 rod, it will contact the bolt guide if it's not removed. Mine is normally removed for this cleaning.
There's usually some grey sludge that comes out with the first dry patch or two, then they're clean. That tells me there's either lead or powder fouling coming out, so the BR9 is working.
For everyday cleaning during the 500 round interval, I use the Dr. Gunner plastic pull through and dry patches to remove powder residue after each shooting session and between brands if I'm switching ammo. Then it gets an oily patch before going back in the safe, and a dry patch before shooting next time.
There's a marked difference in the feel of the dry patch in a freshly cleaned bore, it's silky smooth going through the barrel.
I soak a bronze brush with it, give the bore a few strokes back and forth using a Tipton CF rod and bore guide, then repeat. Once the bore has a coating, I leave it to soak overnight.
The next day, I wrap a thin patch around an old worn bronze brush, soak it with the solvent, and give the barrel half a dozen strokes, then repeat the process but only scrub the chamber/leade area this time. The worn brush will reverse without too much effort in the barrel.
After this, I use a pointed jag with a clean patch and push through the barrel from breech end. Any time the rod goes through the barrel, I use the bore guide. With the .22 rod, it will contact the bolt guide if it's not removed. Mine is normally removed for this cleaning.
There's usually some grey sludge that comes out with the first dry patch or two, then they're clean. That tells me there's either lead or powder fouling coming out, so the BR9 is working.
For everyday cleaning during the 500 round interval, I use the Dr. Gunner plastic pull through and dry patches to remove powder residue after each shooting session and between brands if I'm switching ammo. Then it gets an oily patch before going back in the safe, and a dry patch before shooting next time.
There's a marked difference in the feel of the dry patch in a freshly cleaned bore, it's silky smooth going through the barrel.
I was doing some research on cleaning rods & on the dewey website it said "Why do you recommend a .20 caliber cleaning rod for the .22 rimfire?
.22 rimfire barrels are known for being very tight compared to center fire bores. In many instances our .22 caliber coated rods will work in rimfire barrels but there are barrels in which they will not. CZ bores are notorious for being extremely tight. We have determined that using either a .17 or .20 caliber coated rod in .22 rimfire barrels provides extra clearance and takes the guess work out of whether or not a .22 rod will be too large to pass comfortably through the barrel."
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like I said before, I have a Tipton carbon rod in .20 & .17 the .20 I use for my 22lr and Tipton's warranty is top notch.
I had a similar issue with a CZ 455 varmint I purchased earlier this year.
My first few trips to the range I had mixed results. Sometimes a nice tight group
with a couple fliers and sometimes just fliers. I tried Federal AE and blue box bulk
ammo tried a couple different CCI offerings with the same results.
I thought it might improve with use and after a couple hundred rounds there is
no change other than the trigger is a lot better.
After another disappointing range trip I stripped it down and gave it a good
cleaning removed the barrel and cleaned and inspected the bore.
The rifling and the chamber look good but when I inspected the crown I saw
what looked like someone tried to de-burred the crown after machining it with an
abrasive stone in a die grinder. The rifling is ground into the bore about .010"
on one side and .030" on the other. I think I found the problem.
I re-crowned it. A recessed 11 degree target crown. Took it to the range and
put 150 rounds through it. A big improvement! It now consistently shoots
under an inch at 50 yards with the occasional flier.
Budget ammo is probably the reason for the fliers now, I get similar results
with my other .22s. You should not have to do this with a new rifle.
A lack of quality control obviously.
Terry
My first few trips to the range I had mixed results. Sometimes a nice tight group
with a couple fliers and sometimes just fliers. I tried Federal AE and blue box bulk
ammo tried a couple different CCI offerings with the same results.
I thought it might improve with use and after a couple hundred rounds there is
no change other than the trigger is a lot better.
After another disappointing range trip I stripped it down and gave it a good
cleaning removed the barrel and cleaned and inspected the bore.
The rifling and the chamber look good but when I inspected the crown I saw
what looked like someone tried to de-burred the crown after machining it with an
abrasive stone in a die grinder. The rifling is ground into the bore about .010"
on one side and .030" on the other. I think I found the problem.
I re-crowned it. A recessed 11 degree target crown. Took it to the range and
put 150 rounds through it. A big improvement! It now consistently shoots
under an inch at 50 yards with the occasional flier.
Budget ammo is probably the reason for the fliers now, I get similar results
with my other .22s. You should not have to do this with a new rifle.
A lack of quality control obviously.
Terry
I think the single biggest improvement I've seen in my 452 has come from re-shaping the tip of the firing pin. Prior to that, most of my misses were vertical. Now they're evenly distributed around the point of aim and there are less of them. My 455 will get the same treatment in a few weeks when I have some extra time. I don't swap barrels, it's 22LR only.
A centerfire .22 rod (e.g. for a .223 Rem.) may well be thicker than many .22LR cleaning rods. But as I observed earlier, I use a .22LR carbon fibre rod without issue in all my rimfires including Anschutz, which should be as tight as any bore, CZ or other. Make sure you use a .22LR cleaning rod.
Re: Rod size. It is noted that the ejector gets in the way of .22 sized rods so ya gotta remove the mag well to use it apparently. I use a .20 cal carbon fiber rod and can leave the mag well in place. For jag size a .22 jag is too tight with the cleaning patches I use. There is another brand of patches that are thinner and will work but I don't like them they don't absorb and clean as well. So I also have to use a .20 cal jag with my preferred patches. Brush can be .22 cal, the bristles just fold back to bore size. CZ bore is about .215 diameter just FYI.
I removed the barrel, there's an obvious carbon (i assume) ring just down the barrel, maybe at the chamber? Are there any negatives to cleaning the barrel when removed. I assume I have to be sure to keep the rod alined with the barrel when inserting.
Damn it should be right straight from the factory, it should be inspected before it goes into a shipping box.
Cleaned the barrel with a .22 dewey rod, a .22 pistol jag with a very thin patch, then a .22 pistol brass brush - only pushed thru the breach & removed once thru the muzzle. The carbon ring (i assume) at the chamber / throat came off well, now it's sitting over night with hopes #9 in it (as per the directions on the label). The barrel looks shiny & clean from breach to muzzle.
There's a good chance your rifle will be back to what it was originally. With mine, the bore feels very different to push a patch through when it's clean. With some lead and carbon fouling, it feels slightly jerky as the patch goes through. Freshly cleaned, there's only smooth resistance all the way through once the rifling is engaged.
I normally don't remove the barrel to clean the 455, just the stock and mag well, bolt guide, etc. Plastic doesn't like solvents, generally speaking. It is much easier to get a look at the breech end of the barrel when it's removed.
I normally don't remove the barrel to clean the 455, just the stock and mag well, bolt guide, etc. Plastic doesn't like solvents, generally speaking. It is much easier to get a look at the breech end of the barrel when it's removed.
