Will new brass help for accuracy?

Maple57 said:
Forget the label for distance to dial out parallax... that is not close enough for the accuracy you are looking for.

Aim the rifle at your target so it sits there without your help.... then move your head around... side to side and up and down... watch to see if the reticle is moving... it almost always does... then adjust the parallax until you can move your eye around and the target and reticle do not move in relation to each other no matter where you view it from in the scope.

Are you using full length resized cases or are they fire formed and only neck resized?

Weight sort your brass no matter who suggests that its a waste of time. If the cases weigh the same and they are fire formed to your rifle and only neck resized, then they are volumetrically identical.

Tolerances add up... nothing is irrelevant. The more identical everything is the less total variation you will have.

That's not an inexpensive scale, but it is not all that accurate... it's rated to increment at 0.154 grains. Mine is accurate to 0.00154 grains... Vibra HT.

Make a validation weight for your scale... cut a piece of wire to weight the same as your powder charge plus the weighing pan. Once you think you have the right weight... double check back and fourth a couple times switch between the wire confirmation weight and your pan... make sure you get the same value each time.
Click to expand...

Alright,
Parallax, will have to make sure it's set up right. This could only help.

Resizing, I resize the case every firing. Redding body die, which bumps the shoulders 2 thous and resizes the body dia a little.
But, if I resize every firing, shouldn't my body dia be as constant as if I wouldn't resize and only did necks?
I am bringing it back to the same spec every firing...

Weighing brass, I may get to it. Let's say it could be something I do to obtain the personal record, and then nevermind for regular shooting events.

Scale, 0.154 grains or 0.0154 grains?
I thought my ex RCBS chargemaster combo was 0.1gr and this one 0.02gr.
Like anything there must be more precise, I do believe that my FX120 combined with auto throw and auto trickler, is a happy medium between budget/reload speed/accuracy.
For the moment, even if i'd wish for more accurate in powder weights, the budget is limiting, as in the next coming months i'd love to buy several thousand 175SMK and CCI BR2, and a few 8lbs jug of Varget.
Just for the sake of not running out of components before the 2020 us election, I personally was blocked many reloading components in the 2012 election, I won't again.


Validation is already done. 42.7gr today is 42.7gr tomorrow. Got this deformed 175 SMK bullet I keep close. Give it a good wipe clean before putting in pan, and scale always registers it at the very same value.
 
Ok, I have a question. I realize high end scales would be nice, and I wish I had one, but if a load is created in a node, why do you need to be so precise in the powder measure? Are you cutting kernels of powder in half? Quarters? That FX 120 has to be good enough.
 
MartyK2500 said:
Jerry, will have to study then before attempting better groups with the rifle.
Inconsistency in follow through... In pistols I don't want to brag but have an excellent no flinch and follow through, I can manage it to 44 magnum without the slightest problem. It consist of staying on sights and well grip through all the recoil impulse.
In rifle, is inconsistent follow through the same? As in leaving the sight picture or grip until the shot is really over?

Loading the bipod, I have heard the term before. On carpet from a seated position, seems almost impossible to do, that's why I insure that carpet is placed right so the bipod may slide rearwards and doesn't hop.
Prone on a shooting mat, I can push forward on my rifle and the bipod feet stick to the shooting mat, this way I feel like the bipod is well anchored. Is this what pre-loading is about?
Click to expand...

You are lucky in knowing how hard it is to shoot a HG well.. The connection between you and the HG has to be consistent and repeatable or your shots are going somewhere else. The concept of follow through is similar in mind set... different in execution with rifle being a world easier.

If you want to, you can set up your rifle so you have NO influence on the rifle when it fires... called Free Recoil. You certainly can't do that with a HG.

We are talking about shoulder fired so YOU become part of the recoil and follow through equation. How that rifle pushes back has to be consistent and repeatable. How it tracks, also has to be consistent.

Slight variations here will cause shots to go astray on target... doesn't take much and why we go to such extremes wrt to stock configuration, fit and rests. Watch a video on some top Short Range BR shooters to see how extreme this can get and how "perfect" they can get their rifle to track and move during recoil.

For the vast majority of shooters who are plenty happy with the occasional "hero" group, alot of this is just overkill and not worth the effort... or they just don't understand how important it all is.

BUT you want to enter the world of 1/3 MOA Agg's and I am sure that will lead to 1/4 MOA Aggs and so forth. Here, EVERYTHING matters and you spend a lot of extra time on the subtleties which on their own, really don't mean much but like tolerance stacking... WILL have an affect on the final result.

It starts with scope magnification and reticle subtension (and all the other optical quirks), through to chamber choice, barrels, twist, bullets, loading, rests, shooting, and on and on.

You have already covered many of these items so I am suggesting you focus on areas where big gains are possible - stability in your rests and bags is a huge area of possible improvement... Try and borrow that MPOD and rail... if you have MLOK nuts, it is an easy install onto your forend and you will quickly see if this is going to improve your consistency. You already have a carpeted table so that is good. When you are positioned properly behind the rifle, you should see the target after coming out of recoil... if you are looking somewhere else, shift your body in the opposite direction you are looking.

adjusting your optics for the best view will help, so will using a high mag scope with a very fine reticle. Ever figure out how precise you can aim at distance? If the reticle covers 1/4" at 200yds, your aiming error can be 1/2 that on every shot.

Bullet choice can change your results quite dramatically. Have you tried any Bergers? Maybe a lighter bullet? maybe a heavier one?

My guess is that you may not want to be this critical in your testing... so just build the best ammo you can, shoot with as much consistency as possible and enjoy the rifle.

Cause if you really really want to be in the 1/3 MOA or better range, I would suggest you change to a 6BR (or 6PPC if you can find the bolt head) and life will be SOOOO much easier.

Jerry
 
Lead hammer said:
Ok, I have a question. I realize high end scales would be nice, and I wish I had one, but if a load is created in a node, why do you need to be so precise in the powder measure? Are you cutting kernels of powder in half? Quarters? That FX 120 has to be good enough.
Click to expand...

The FX120i is a very popular scale and used by a large number of shooters in the competition world. If your scale can account for a kernel of powder, that is as precise as you need to be.

Does it matter? If you have the rifle that is accurate enough AND you have the skills to be that consistent, yes, you can see changes on target with very small changes in powder charge.

This is made much clearer if you test and tune at longer distances. 100yds masks alot of mistakes and can actually lead to false positives. My competitions typically at 1000yds so I test at 250yds and further. I will even do final testing at 1000yds and compare my plots between my ammo.

Very easy to see how small changes in your ammo affect your groups.

Jerry
 
Mystic Precision said:
You are lucky in knowing how hard it is to shoot a HG well.. The connection between you and the HG has to be consistent and repeatable or your shots are going somewhere else. The concept of follow through is similar in mind set... different in execution with rifle being a world easier.

If you want to, you can set up your rifle so you have NO influence on the rifle when it fires... called Free Recoil. You certainly can't do that with a HG.

We are talking about shoulder fired so YOU become part of the recoil and follow through equation. How that rifle pushes back has to be consistent and repeatable. How it tracks, also has to be consistent.

Slight variations here will cause shots to go astray on target... doesn't take much and why we go to such extremes wrt to stock configuration, fit and rests. Watch a video on some top Short Range BR shooters to see how extreme this can get and how "perfect" they can get their rifle to track and move during recoil.

For the vast majority of shooters who are plenty happy with the occasional "hero" group, alot of this is just overkill and not worth the effort... or they just don't understand how important it all is.

BUT you want to enter the world of 1/3 MOA Agg's and I am sure that will lead to 1/4 MOA Aggs and so forth. Here, EVERYTHING matters and you spend a lot of extra time on the subtleties which on their own, really don't mean much but like tolerance stacking... WILL have an affect on the final result.

It starts with scope magnification and reticle subtension (and all the other optical quirks), through to chamber choice, barrels, twist, bullets, loading, rests, shooting, and on and on.

You have already covered many of these items so I am suggesting you focus on areas where big gains are possible - stability in your rests and bags is a huge area of possible improvement... Try and borrow that MPOD and rail... if you have MLOK nuts, it is an easy install onto your forend and you will quickly see if this is going to improve your consistency. You already have a carpeted table so that is good. When you are positioned properly behind the rifle, you should see the target after coming out of recoil... if you are looking somewhere else, shift your body in the opposite direction you are looking.

adjusting your optics for the best view will help, so will using a high mag scope with a very fine reticle. Ever figure out how precise you can aim at distance? If the reticle covers 1/4" at 200yds, your aiming error can be 1/2 that on every shot.

Bullet choice can change your results quite dramatically. Have you tried any Bergers? Maybe a lighter bullet? maybe a heavier one?

My guess is that you may not want to be this critical in your testing... so just build the best ammo you can, shoot with as much consistency as possible and enjoy the rifle.

Cause if you really really want to be in the 1/3 MOA or better range, I would suggest you change to a 6BR (or 6PPC if you can find the bolt head) and life will be SOOOO much easier.

Jerry
Click to expand...

Thanks for the well worded reply.

I seem to have found (not discovered as the internet has pages full with the same recipe) a load, which is on the cheap side (keeps loaded ammo close to sub 1$/shot) and on the efficient side.
Varget + Lapua brass + CCI br2 + 175 SMK, is well documented to do really good, but i now realise that really good may not be the best.

If i am honest with myself, i want to keep it simple, and just get a good load of these 4 components, and just enjoy a constant sub 1/2 moa rifle.
As when i do a 5x5 group at 200M, and 5 groups get sub 1/2 moa, i believe in the capacity of my rig and ammo to keep a certain level of consistency.
It's not a one off 3 shot group.
Heck, if i'd count 2 groups of 3 shots at 200M, i could magically claim that i'm in the sub 1/4 moa territory.

What this was about when i started the thread, was a curiosity if i could crank things up a notch while relatively keeping the same components and tools (scoped rifle being part of tools).
In my mind, my used and sometimes abused brass was the culprit, but now see there is much more to it than that.

Just paid my membership to a local 900M range, and will be joining the service rifle guys when they have precision rifle sessions.
In these events, i tend to believe that sub 1/2 moa proven rig will be capable of punching decent holes in a figure 11 target.
Wind will easily screw with me more that a quarter of a minute inconsistency, i know as i have been there done that with them as a guest, good thing i was walked through.

But when on my own at my usual range on my carpeted cement bench, i'm always tempted to reach what seems like the impossible in groupings.
By the way they have a forums, i will ask if someone local in that range would mind letting me try the mpod, as i am curious of the difference above all.
 
Mystic Precision said:
The FX120i is a very popular scale and used by a large number of shooters in the competition world. If your scale can account for a kernel of powder, that is as precise as you need to be.

Does it matter? If you have the rifle that is accurate enough AND you have the skills to be that consistent, yes, you can see changes on target with very small changes in powder charge.

This is made much clearer if you test and tune at longer distances. 100yds masks alot of mistakes and can actually lead to false positives. My competitions typically at 1000yds so I test at 250yds and further. I will even do final testing at 1000yds and compare my plots between my ammo.

Very easy to see how small changes in your ammo affect your groups.

Jerry
Click to expand...

I do realize some shooters have different expectations of what they want to achieve. I realize my beam scale is not super accurate, but when trickling up a load, I can tell if it needs one or three kernels by looking at it although it still will be slightly off or can be. My scale is only 0.1 grain accurate. If load in the middle at say 40.1,40.2,40.3, I'm good. Or I guess maybe not. I'm now curious how many kernels it takes to get to 0.1 higher/lower, I better go check as it will bug me lol. I guess you could fine tune the OCW test way out there like you say. I also hope I do not need to upgrade my scale to shoot 1 moa at 1000? Or even for 1/2 moa at 1000??
 
I threw a charge on my 5-0-5 to 41.2 grains. It took 3 kernels of H4350 to level out 41.3 on the scale.

Jerry I need to pull up my britches and try yet this fall.
 
Scale is responding as it should.... good luck with reaching out.

The hard work is done developing your load at 200/300yds... focus on the vertical dispersion and work on your powder charge and seating depth to get this as shallow as possible. Watch the target... not the chrony screen.

A 1/2 MOA load is able to, in theory, flatten a clay pigeon at 1000yds... so put that in perspective.. if you truly have a solid, repeatable and reliable 1/2 MOA rig, you got something that is going to make you giggle for a very long time at a very far distance.

And put you on the podium in a wide range of shooting games.

It is the vertical that is going to dampen the fun. The error caused by high amounts of vertical at short range is not linear at long range... it is many times worst. When you have it bad, you will be hitting above and below your target at random with no pattern. It will be really frustrating cause you are going ping pong on the target and it seems like you have a broken scope, or your ballistics app is full of Sh!t.

When I am tuning for competition, I will work to get my vertical to 1/4 MOA or better at 250yds.... yes, the left and right may be wider but I can drive that. With the right rest and set up, I have tuned my loads to have 2 calibers of vertical....

It is nearly impossible to drive something that is zinging 1 to 2 MOA vertically which then causes more lateral dispersion as you blindly hunt around the target trying to connect.

Enjoy the journey.. nothing more to talk about.. just go shoot some groups, plot every shot and note what is changing when you adjust powder and/or seating depth. The further you test, the more obvious small changes can be viewed.

At 200/300yds, if you have a 1/2 MOA load that is 1/4 to 1/3 MOA vertical, just dial up the drop needed to land at 1000yds and pull the trigger... it really is that easy.

Jerry
 
This was my last outing. Four shots at 535 yards. Group was 4.25". I did not measure the vertical but I was happy. Hopefully have more time to set up longer next outing. ( rangefinder is frustrating, have to add up ranges to get out to 550 let alone 1000. )
tkcVEyPh.jpg
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WOW, that is some fine shooting... that vertical is as good as you can shoot at this distance. Your loading is working just fine... as is your shooting.

I bet that shot to the left is a bit of wind. Regardless, very well done.

Dial up to 1000yds, and send it. You have already done all the hard work. As long as your scope tracks and ballistics is ball park close, you are going to kick up dust if not hit your target.

If you continue to shoot this gong pictured, I bet you put a shot on target within 5rds if you can see your misses and winds are mild. 1000yds really isn't all that far.

now the hard part begins... reading the wind and mirage so you can put hits on that target regardless of conditions.

If you continue to shoot over a wheat field, consider putting out a flag every 200 to 300yds and one at the gong... set them all in the row so you are looking at all of them when you look at the gong. I use the larger Canada flags you find at dollar stores. Poles can be anything... I stole some bamboo poles that would have ended up in the garden

grab a spotting scope, sit and just watch the flags. I really mean that... just sit and watch how the flags sway and move in both intensity and angle. Wind is rarely ever linear so you will see patterns in how it move across the field... as you would see waves hitting a beach. There may be areas with higher velocity then others... or land features what cause the pattern to change... just like a boulder in stream.

As you shoot, note what the flags are doing... then try and connect what the flags do vs where your bullet ends up. Yes, there is a predictable outcome to this.

Watch the mirage and see how this compares to the flags and where your bullet ends up. This is the basis of wind reading and this is the skill set that separates those that get on the podium.

You are off to a great start... don't by shy, send those bullets way out there.... distance is really not a big deal... if you can see the impacts of your miss, you will be able to hit your targets easily.

There are GPS apps for your smart phone... distance should not pose any problems now.

Enjoy...

Jerry
 
Mystic Precision said:
WOW, that is some fine shooting... that vertical is as good as you can shoot at this distance. Your loading is working just fine... as is your shooting.

I bet that shot to the left is a bit of wind. Regardless, very well done.

Dial up to 1000yds, and send it. You have already done all the hard work. As long as your scope tracks and ballistics is ball park close, you are going to kick up dust if not hit your target.

If you continue to shoot this gong pictured, I bet you put a shot on target within 5rds if you can see your misses and winds are mild. 1000yds really isn't all that far.

now the hard part begins... reading the wind and mirage so you can put hits on that target regardless of conditions.

If you continue to shoot over a wheat field, consider putting out a flag every 200 to 300yds and one at the gong... set them all in the row so you are looking at all of them when you look at the gong. I use the larger Canada flags you find at dollar stores. Poles can be anything... I stole some bamboo poles that would have ended up in the garden

grab a spotting scope, sit and just watch the flags. I really mean that... just sit and watch how the flags sway and move in both intensity and angle. Wind is rarely ever linear so you will see patterns in how it move across the field... as you would see waves hitting a beach. There may be areas with higher velocity then others... or land features what cause the pattern to change... just like a boulder in stream.

As you shoot, note what the flags are doing... then try and connect what the flags do vs where your bullet ends up. Yes, there is a predictable outcome to this.

Watch the mirage and see how this compares to the flags and where your bullet ends up. This is the basis of wind reading and this is the skill set that separates those that get on the podium.

You are off to a great start... don't by shy, send those bullets way out there.... distance is really not a big deal... if you can see the impacts of your miss, you will be able to hit your targets easily.

There are GPS apps for your smart phone... distance should not pose any problems now.

Enjoy...

Jerry
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words Jerry. Flags are on my list, and yes this is my main gong. I Happened to do a 100 yard seating depth test today in the rain and wind. (tailwind mostly) I think it would be much easier to do at 2-300, and of course I need one more group now on the shorter end to confirm. I think I will load up the previous load and also the suspected new seating depth, and give them a go at 300, hopefully no wind or rain tomorrow. Back to brass, this Hornady brass is on it's upper end on round counts I believe. Still no loose primer pockets, but I need to cut another one in half to have a better look. Without checking the data, its either going to be 7th or 8th loading next.
 
Fall is upon us and winter is not that far away. If the crops are down, I would just set up that gong at 1000yds and send some lead.

Whatever load you shot in that pic is more then accurate to hit that gong at 1000yds.

You can always tune but nice warm days for LR shooting are coming to and end this season.

Have fun...

Jerry
 
MartyK2500 said:
If reloading with Varget
On an FX 120 it takes 4-5 kernels to move the scale reading by 0.1gr
Click to expand...

1 Kernel of varget weighs about 0.02 grains... depending on the size of the kernel... so about 4-5 kernels to a grain is about right.

Keep in mind that a scale that indexes in 0.1 grain increments is not accurate to 0.1 grains. Usually you will get about 0.4 grains total variation over a lot of 50 charges with such a scale.

Often times the scales that go to 2 decimal places increment in 0.02 increments and that in theory is 5 times more accurate than a 0.1 grain increment scale. That depends on the overall quality of the scale. If you look on Amazon you can find some decent 2 decimal place scales for as little as $30 but that does not make them great. You typically get what you pay for but there are work arounds if you are creative.

You can cut a wire to weigh your target powder weight plus the weighing pan, then alternate back and fourth between the wire and pan to confirm a consistent reading with any scale.

You can do the math on vertical dispersion as a result of powder charge variation...

For example 223 data from Nosler load data says 60-62 grain bullet with 24.5 grains of varget goes 2995 fps and with 22.5 grains it goes 2769

so over a 2 grain load change we get a speed difference of (2995-2769)= 226 fps

If we have 5 kernels of powder to 0.1 grains then there are 20x5 =100 kernels of powder in 2 grains of varget.

so 226/100=2.26 FPS per kernel of powder

if you can only measure within 5 kernels then the best you can expect over the chronograph is 2.26x5=11.3 fps total variation

If in reality you are within 0.2 grains, then you can expect 22.6 fps total variation.

That does not account for other variables such as case weight or thermal expansion... etc.

So then you translate that speed difference to vertical dispersion at distances like 500 to 1000 yards and it really adds up in vertical inches.

quick check on JBM and a .500 bc bullet at 3000 has 294.6 inches of drop at 1000 yards

at 3022 FPS its 289.6 inches

the difference is 5 vertical inches... so if you are an F-Class shooter that is the 1/2 MOA V-Bull height and it is mathematically improbable to be able to clean it with such a load.

Using a scale that increments in 0.02 grains you can cut your vertical dispersion to 1 inch and could possibly clean the 1000 yard F-class target.

If you don't require such precision, then you can decide what you actually require in practical terms for your game.
 
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MartyK2500 said:
Resizing, I resize the case every firing. Redding body die, which bumps the shoulders 2 thous and resizes the body dia a little.
But, if I resize every firing, shouldn't my body dia be as constant as if I wouldn't resize and only did necks?
I am bringing it back to the same spec every firing...
.
Click to expand...

If you are looking for precision, any variable is an enemy. Some variables you can control and others you cannot.

I understand your point that if brass is the same, the result should be the same, and you are not alone to believe this, many experienced shooters do... but in reality energy is lost while blowing the brass out to your chamber wall.

You will notice two things when using fire formed cases.... First is you can run more powder so you can increase velocity without raising chamber pressure. Second, since no energy is lost to blowing out the case to fit your chamber, more energy is translated to spitting out the projectile, so you get higher velocities for two reasons. In addition you will typically get lower ES, again since less energy is lost to blowing out the case and creating a gas seal.

The hardest part of that quest for precision is differentiating between voodoo or superstition vs scientifically valid practices that respect the laws of physics.
 
Maple57 said:
1 Kernel of varget weighs about 0.02 grains... depending on the size of the kernel... so about 4-5 kernels to a grain is about right.

Keep in mind that a scale that indexes in 0.1 grain increments is not accurate to 0.1 grains. Usually you will get about 0.4 grains total variation over a lot of 50 charges with such a scale.

Often times the scales that go to 2 decimal places increment in 0.02 increments and that in theory is 5 times more accurate than a 0.1 grain increment scale. That depends on the overall quality of the scale. If you look on Amazon you can find some decent 2 decimal place scales for as little as $30 but that does not make them great. You typically get what you pay for but there are work arounds if you are creative.

You can cut a wire to weigh your target powder weight plus the weighing pan, then alternate back and fourth between the wire and pan to confirm a consistent reading with any scale.

You can do the math on vertical dispersion as a result of powder charge variation...

For example 223 data from Nosler load data says 60-62 grain bullet with 24.5 grains of varget goes 2995 fps and with 22.5 grains it goes 2769

so over a 2 grain load change we get a speed difference of (2995-2769)= 226 fps

If we have 5 kernels of powder to 0.1 grains then there are 20x5 =100 kernels of powder in 2 grains of varget.

so 226/100=2.26 FPS per kernel of powder

if you can only measure within 5 kernels then the best you can expect over the chronograph is 2.26x5=11.3 fps total variation

If in reality you are within 0.2 grains, then you can expect 22.6 fps total variation.

That does not account for other variables such as case weight or thermal expansion... etc.

So then you translate that speed difference to vertical dispersion at distances like 500 to 1000 yards and it really adds up in vertical inches.

quick check on JBM and a .500 bc bullet at 3000 has 294.6 inches of drop at 1000 yards

at 3022 FPS its 289.6 inches

the difference is 5 vertical inches... so if you are an F-Class shooter that is the 1/2 MOA V-Bull height and it is mathematically improbable to be able to clean it with such a load.

Using a scale that increments in 0.02 grains you can cut your vertical dispersion to 1 inch and could possibly clean the 1000 yard F-class target.

If you don't require such precision, then you can decide what you actually require in practical terms for your game.
Click to expand...

If I read this right, my FX 120 already increments by 0.02gr so would be already good for fclass.
That is if it really is 0.02gr accurate.

I have noticed that some kernels are heavier than others.
I set the scale to auto throw-auto trickle to 42.70gr Varget.
Sometimes the trickler over-under throws and I get a reading of 42.68gr or 42.72gr on scale.
Then I use tweezers to add/remove as needed. But sometimes when adding it can jump to the next 0.02gr if it's a fat kernel.

As for brass resizing, my casing fits another 3.0gr of Varget if i'd want.
42.7gr is producing 2700FPS with 175 SMK. I figure it's a good enough speed/bullet weight to reach my maximum available distance to shoot (900M).
Yes 2700FPS spot on, for some reason my rifle likes that speed, when doing load dev around that node things get really tight at the very 2700FPS spot.

I would be curious to monitor E.S. with neck sized brass only, but I am a bit scared of all the technicalities around this.
If it produces more speed and have to load dev again, I won't like the trouble.
As when the brass won't chamber anymore, and will have to size it, all of a sudden the load wouldn't work anymore.
At least in theory.
 
I would FL size every time. Maple57's post is a good illustrator as to why it is important

Use good quality components, and be consistent in your reloading practices.

All of the cartridges I reload for have an ES of 12 fps or less (over 10+ shots). I don't weight sort brass, bullets or primers, nor do I clean or uniform primer pockets, or deburr flash holes. I would rather spend my time on the range than in the reloading room, but I want my ammo to perform. For that reason, I do not perform any steps that don't provide any functional difference down range.

There's so much nonsense on the internet about reloading, that it will make your head spin. When I first started reloading, I was so overwhelmed with the process as everyone on the internet is an expert, and everyone reloaded in a different way. Luckily one of my reloading mentors is an Applied Ballistics ELR team shooter, and that helped to sort out the fact from BS quite quickly.

Having a good reloading mentor that is local to you will be a big help. Find someone that you can trust to help you through the process.
 
Jerry @ Mystic mostly taught me my process via e-mail/CGN.
Using recommended dies and process, I had got better groups under a week of reloading than my buddies got over years of reloading.
sub 1/2moa when doing five groups of 5 shots at 200M, means I am not down a bad road.
Just wanted to see if I could push it more.

And from reading in this thread, I figure technique now has more to it that reload process.
The fact that I am stubborn about using a harris bi-pod and regular bean bag for the rear, sure ain't helping either.
But would like to succeed with those parameters none the less.
 
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