6.5 creedmoor bullets

It means a LOT to me as the Primer is Part of the whole Program - so to say it means Nothing is a BIT out there ! I only wanted to know to compare to what i was using . As far as a ANY primer can be made to shoot a load as good as any other primer is simply UNTRUE ! Believe what you want and I will too ! There just like Bullets - Powder - Brass etc some WORK Well and Some Don't ! I Believe YOU have VAST knowledge as you have proven time after time BUT you still don't know it ALL !

Well let us know how F210M work with RL17 and 130gr SGK in your Creed. Don't try a standard 210 though, things get dicey
 
I smile when shooter post comments about primers all being the same - or that primer choice does not matter.

With an easy to ignite powder, like 4895, any primer will work well. Only a small powder adjustment is required when switching primers.

When you are dealing with a difficult to ignite situation, the primer chocie makes a huge difference. In fact, some primers will give very poor results.

Difficult to ignite situations include:

- A slow powder with a heavy deterrrent coating.

- A slow powder in a less than full case, makes it even more difficult.

- A slow powder in a less than full case, with a light bullet makes it even more difficult.

- A slow powder in a less than full case, with a light bullet and no crimp/little neck tension makes it even more difficult.

- Any of the above situations using a ball power. They are usually more difficult to ignite. So loading a 45 gr bullet in 223 with a partial case full of 748 can be a problem unless you give the bullet a good crimp and use a hot primer.

If you want to see the difference in primers, load them in pistol cases and fire them (just the primed case) out of a handgun in the dark. I have done this and taken pictures (no flash) to record the differences.

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I smile when shooter post comments about primers all being the same - or that primer choice does not matter.

I never said that all primers are the same, or that choice doesn't matter. I said that any primer can be made to work with a load, assuming the primer is suitable for igniting the powder properly
 
There are many issues in getting a tight group.

What scope?

Is the parallax dialed out?

Are you capable of shooting of shooting sub MOA?

What cases you use?

All from same lot #?

Same number of reloads per case?

Neck or FL sized?

What primer?

What powder?

How much?

How did you arrive at that?

What kind of bench and bag set up do you have?
 
I’m having issues with the 143gr ELD-X in a custom Mcgowen barrel in my Stag 10.

Can’t get under MOA, but factory gets MOA. I’m thinking maybe it’s my seating depth? 0.005” off lands.

If I were you, I would start at 0.020 off the lands and work back in 0.003" seating depths until you find a seating depth node. ( should have one found within 6 tries probably. 0.020, 0.023, 0.026 etc. ) 0.005 in my humble opinion is too close to allow for any variation in bullets from lot to lot. If you take big steps in seating depth you can miss the nodes until you just get lucky and hit one.
 
There are many issues in getting a tight group.

What scope?

Is the parallax dialed out?

Are you capable of shooting of shooting sub MOA?

What cases you use?

All from same lot #?

Same number of reloads per case?

Neck or FL sized?

What primer?

What powder?

How much?

How did you arrive at that?

What kind of bench and bag set up do you have?

Vortex Razor HD LH 4-15x40

Parallax is dialed to 110y (I shoot 100m)

Ive shot lots of sub MOA groups with my Tikka.

Starline SR primer

Brand new out of the box, just neck sized

CCI BR4

H4350

From 37.0 to 43.1gr

I use a shooting test similar to a lead sled, but not weighted.
 
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